Building a couple of AR's

[jnyork]

Was in the PX over at the Marine base today, they had Anderson lowers for 48 bucks so I bought a couple. Have been meaning to do this for some time. This will be my first adventure at this, I have a couple of good CD's detailing all the steps and I have most of the tools already. Thinking I will put together a carbine and a varminter, both .223. Anyone have any sage advice? Thanks, no, I will NOT go over to that AR15 website.

[AJMD429]

It's pretty easy to get the basics put together. Worst part for me is when the gas-tube holes in a screw-on forend don't align and I have to decide between 'too much torque' or 'too little'. Sometimes I use some Teflon plumbing tape to thicken the shoulder on the barrel assembly that is pushed on by the barrel nut/forend.

You'll of course want to do one in 300 Blk soon, then 50 Beowulf, then 204 Ruger, etc., etc....

The 'AR-15.com' site has lots of good info, but I have more trouble sorting out which 'know-everything' guys there actually know something vs. which ones are just pretending, so I tend to come back to levergunscommunity.com if I want information I can trust...

[MrMurphy]

Midweight 1/8 twist in the carbine.


1 in 9 or 1/7 in the varminter depending on your favorite bullet weights. Stiff medium contour barrel, not a bull barrel. Rifle length gas system in the varminter. A GOOD freefloat tube, railed or not (up to you) and a LaRue LT104 for the optic mount.

[7.62 Precision]

Worst part for me is when the gas-tube holes in a screw-on forend don't align and I have to decide between 'too much torque' or 'too little'. Sometimes I use some Teflon plumbing tape to thicken the shoulder on the barrel assembly that is pushed on by the barrel nut/forend.

The torque range is pretty wide so they will usually align within it. I torque, back it off, torque, back it off, and torque again.

Oh and use the correct grease when installing the barrel nut. This is a requirement. Also, if the barrel nut is aluminum, it can weld itself to the upper as you torque it, and it won't move, but it won't be torqued.

On the varmint rifle, don't go over 20" as there is no advantage there. I have some nice 18" match mid weight barrels. Bull barrels are great, if you don't mind the weight, but if you can get the same accuracy from a mid-profile barrel, then why carry the extra weight?

I am avoiding any parts I don't already know to be good right now.

[firefuzz]

Worst part for me is when the gas-tube holes in a screw-on forend don't align and I have to decide between 'too much torque' or 'too little'. Sometimes I use some Teflon plumbing tape to thicken the shoulder on the barrel assembly that is pushed on by the barrel nut/forend.

The torque range is pretty wide so they will usually align within it. I torque, back it off, torque, back it off, and torque again.

Oh and use the correct grease when installing the barrel nut. This is a requirement. Also, if the barrel nut is aluminum, it can weld itself to the upper as you torque it, and it won't move, but it won't be torqued.

On the varmint rifle, don't go over 20" as there is no advantage there. I have some nice 18" match mid weight barrels. Bull barrels are great, if you don't mind the weight, but if you can get the same accuracy from a mid-profile barrel, then why carry the extra weight?

I am avoiding any parts I don't already know to be good right now.

I use the same "seating" method you describe here and have never had a problem damaging parts or removing a barrel latter. The use of a good anti-seize grease is something a lot of people seem to forget. I've taken barrels off uppers for people to find the threads on the receiver damaged buy not having been lubed during assembly.

I built a really nice 24" varmint AR one time and after running it over a chronograph promptly cut the barrel to 20". I think I gained about 47fps average for 4" of barrel length and weight. Just not worth it.

jnyork, the nice thing about AR's is that you can build a couple of lowers, say one with your choice of a collapsible stock and one with a fixed or heavier adjustable stock, then build and attach uppers to your hearts desire and pretty much take care of any AR type system you can imagine.

Rob

[6pt-sika]

Shoot this putting together an accurate AR is a piece of cake !

I bought the stuff and hand it to my gunsmith buddy and he does the work for me at no cost (part of our trade agreement for doing his internet stuff) !

[Ysabel Kid]

Was in the PX over at the Marine base today, they had Anderson lowers for 48 bucks so I bought a couple.

So, at a PX, are they considered an FFL, and do you need to fill out the usual paperwork?

[7.62 Precision]

I use the same "seating" method you describe here and have never had a problem damaging parts or removing a barrel latter. The use of a good anti-seize grease is something a lot of people seem to forget. I've taken barrels off uppers for people to find the threads on the receiver damaged buy not having been lubed during assembly.

What I really hate is the people (and companies) who "bed" the barrel on an AR using epoxy or red locktite.

I just had to take some rifles apart that were built by a manufacturer who did that - the epoxy was between the barrel extension and the upper, on the threads of the barrel nut, between the barrel nut and the barrel, between the gas block and the barrel.

I used every method I knew, but on one of the rifles, I finally had to cut the delta ring and weld spring assembly off and put a big pipe wrench on the barrel nut. In the end, it was easier to replace the upper than deal with the epoxy inside it, plus I was worried that I had stressed it too much taking the barrel off.

While it might make some difference for accuracy, I sure can't shoot well enough to see a difference. I think that "bedding" a barrel on an AR-15 is just a marketing ploy to make people think they are getting a more accurate rifle.

Oh, and the PX has an FFL for each location that firearms are sold.

[stew71]

I used this book as a guide when I started building my ARs...

http://www.amazon.com/AR-15-Complete-As ... mbly+Guide



Walt Kuleck and Clint McKee know the AR platform. Check out Fulton Armory.

[MrMurphy]

I use the same "seating" method you describe here and have never had a problem damaging parts or removing a barrel latter. The use of a good anti-seize grease is something a lot of people seem to forget. I've taken barrels off uppers for people to find the threads on the receiver damaged buy not having been lubed during assembly.

What I really hate is the people (and companies) who "bed" the barrel on an AR using epoxy or red locktite.

I just had to take some rifles apart that were built by a manufacturer who did that - the epoxy was between the barrel extension and the upper, on the threads of the barrel nut, between the barrel nut and the barrel, between the gas block and the barrel.

I used every method I knew, but on one of the rifles, I finally had to cut the delta ring and weld spring assembly off and put a big pipe wrench on the barrel nut. In the end, it was easier to replace the upper than deal with the epoxy inside it, plus I was worried that I had stressed it too much taking the barrel off.

While it might make some difference for accuracy, I sure can't shoot well enough to see a difference. I think that "bedding" a barrel on an AR-15 is just a marketing ploy to make people think they are getting a more accurate rifle.

Oh, and the PX has an FFL for each location that firearms are sold.

They're preying on guys coming from a bolt gun background.

After all, if it's good for a 700 action, it MUST be good for an AR.....yeah...

[jnyork]

Was in the PX over at the Marine base today, they had Anderson lowers for 48 bucks so I bought a couple.

So, at a PX, are they considered an FFL, and do you need to fill out the usual paperwork?

Yes.

[Mich Hunter]

Off of the top of my head, the torque specs are between 35lbs and 80lbs per T.O. Just remember to add a bit of grease to the threads as 7.62 is right in stating that it will fuse itself. Lining up the gas tube can be the hardest part for some along with setting the detent and springs for the hinge pin. There are a few tricks that can be learned. If you need tools, drop me a line. I have just about every AR associated tool you can think of and can ship. There is not any "gun smithing" involved with AR's. It's more along the lines of lincoln logs or leg's. If you send me a PM with your email, I will dig up Uncle Sam's T.O. and send it to you.

[firefuzz]

...What I really hate is the people (and companies) who "bed" the barrel on an AR using epoxy or red locktite.

I just had to take some rifles apart that were built by a manufacturer who did that - the epoxy was between the barrel extension and the upper, on the threads of the barrel nut, between the barrel nut and the barrel, between the gas block and the barrel.

I had a friend of a friend bring me a lower with an M4 type stock on it wanting to change it to an A2 stock. You could see the epoxy in the wrench slots of the locking ring. I asked him why he had done that to which he said the "gunsmith" that put the gun together for him had done it. I actually knew this "gunsmith" so I told him to take the piece back to him for removal and he said he'd already tried, the guy laughed and told him "that stuff ain't never coming off."

So I went with the guy to talk to the "gunsmith" and I asked him why he had epoxied these parts instead of tightening and either using blue locktite or staking it if he was concerned about it loosening. The "gunsmith" said that he didn't have the spanner to tighten the lock ring and besides "his way was better"....tightening the lock ring with a strap wrench after applying this super epoxy. Alarm bells started going off in my head so I asked the "gunsmith" how he installed the barrel lock nut...."same way, I've put together about 20 that way and have never had one come loose." I gave the gun owner my lawyers card standing in front of the "gunsmith" and told him to call me when the gun blew up, if he was able to. I was asked to leave after I told the "gunsmith" what an idiot he was.

How can someone make something so simple be so complicated?

Rob

[Griff]

Man, you guys got me worried... the assembled upper I bought has a Hogue forend on it... I wanted to take it of to drill & tap it for a short section of rail... Marked where the holes needed to be... but now can't figure how to remove it... guess I better ask Hogue...

[vancelw]

How can someone make something so simple be so complicated?

Rob

That's the main reason I am seriously considering going to gunsmithing school now that I'm retired. Of the dozen or so "gunsmiths" around here, there is not one I trust. We have so many AR assemblers around here that I would never buy a used one without tearing it down first. Especially after reading this thread.

It also amazes me how many people expect a rifle that has been bore-sighted to be dead-on at 300 yards (or any range)

[1894c]

I just finished building one and am in the process of building another...AR's, I'm discovering, are fun to put together... :)

[arjunky]

I just finished building one and am in the process of building another...AR's, I discovering, are fun to put together...

They are very addicting. Back in the day even the worst one I ever put together, with an already wore out target barrel, would still shoot 1 1/2 MOA with iron sights, when I could see them.

Buton

[DiamondD]

Very fun and easy to do yourself. There a lot of quality You Tube videos out there to show you how. The easy button is buy this DVD:
http://www.amazon.com/Building-Your-AR- ... B004ZZDYDG

[DiamondD]

Also I would advise buying all your parts from quality manufactureres. A bunch of bargain basement parts will make a bargain basement AR.

[firefuzz]

Also I would advise buying all your parts from quality manufactureres. A bunch of bargain basement parts will make a bargain basement AR.

I agree with what you're saying here, but don't swing too far the other way. A person can build an accurate, serviceable AR right now for less than $600. It may not have all the bells and whistles, but it will be reliable and accurate. Do a little research and buy quality, not necessarily big name parts. The really nice thing about AR's is that they are easy to upgrade as you cash flow dictates.

Rob