Forum rules
Welcome to the Leverguns.Com General Discussions Forum. This is a high-class place so act respectable. We discuss most anything here other than politics... politely.
Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
You ever have one of those days? Mondays are my day off and after a few appointments in town I went out to shoot a bit. Had my new 94 Trapper and the 336Y that I've had about a year but havent shot yet.
I figured the 94 would be off with it's canted sights but it looks like it's hitting about 12-14 inches left with the sights already maxed out for windage. So off to the 'smith for sure with that one. And BTW it's a pussycat for recoil and I didnt notice any louder than normal report with the short barrel.
65 paces from the truck, you can just make out some disturbed snow right at the top left edge of the sagebrush that is behind the target. Another impact is just below the left most edge of the same bush. Doesn't look like it because of the angle but those sights are way off. I am hopeful that the action is threaded straight.
Next up was the 336Y. I hate the factory sights and mean to replace them (why I havent fired it yet) but I figured I ought to shoot it since it's newer brother was going out. Welp after several attempts I realized something was wrong and after getting it apart I realized my firing pin is broken. I've had it apart several times to clean up the trigger and what not and never noticed this before though I have dry fired it and suspect that it may have been my own fault.
I'd intended to fire several different loads but after seeing the performance of the Winchester I put it up to try the Marlin. So I got two whole rounds fired in todays range session. Oh well two rounds is still better than work. Guess I'll be sticking with the '95 for now until I get the two .30-30's shooting.
Well shucks ! Are the sights canted right or left as seen from the shooting position? Canted right is the easiest to deal with. Marlin firing pins are an easy part to replace. Good luck.
Some years back my BIL had an 1886 that shot a foot to the left at close range. We had the front and rear sights maxed out and then it shot ok but it sure looked funny. Looking straight down the barrel we decided the barrel was bent. It don't take much......I was going to bend it a hair but he wanted me to leave it alone. I guess that was a good decision as that would have been my first barrel bending job.---6
Well Chuck I'm not to worried about the Marlin firing pin, just gave a surprise when it went click and not bang. Unfortunately the sights are are canted left. I know in theory the barrel can be faced but I'm not sure that will work on mine. It's a trapper so with that 16" barrel I've got no leeway to shorten it any.
Sixgun, even if it were bent the dovetails are cut wrong. With the previously mentioned trouble of turning it I'm figuring now on a new barrel. I can do minor stuff like cleaning up a trigger and swapping internal parts but barrel work is more than I'm equipped to do. I'll probably have bring it up to Brocks Gunsmithing up in Spokane here before to long and have them take a look at it.
Just a thought, but how about having the gunsmith fill in the dovetails with a soldered in blank, then recut them level? I've read of this being done, but never had it done.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts .***
Sounds like either barrel is not screwed in all the way.
OR
The barrel was replaced and they were more concerned about not having to do any machine work to get it right.
Either way it's has to be Figured out and corrected. Not necessarily need a new barrel, just needs to be pulled, set back just a few thousandths to bring it up to center.
If it's bent, you should be able to see it.
Well I am hoping that simply filling the dovetail and recutting will work but I'm planning on a new barrel that way if it's the easier option I can be pleasantly surprised (and my checkbook will be happier also).
It's the original barrel or a factory replacement if it's not original. All the factory markings are there. I'm sure it's screwed in all the way as there is no visible shoulder and the three machining operations (two cuts and a hole) on the bottom of the barrel are all indexed properly.
I've looked and I can't tell that the barrel is bent. I'm certainly no expert on barrels but working in a fab shop I can usually see if something is off and I've looked every which way on that gun. Not saying it's not there but I can't see it. The problem with facing the barrel and setting it back a few thousandths is that being a trapper it's already 16" so really I have none to spare. Maybe there is a way though.
You would have to set it back a FULL turn, then you are into SBR territory!
If you plan to fill the dove tails, either peen the fillers in and refinish or red locktite, silver soldering will scale the bore. It's been my experience that welding ( even TIG) will cause chromoly barrel steels to pit and look like pelosi.
Just had another thought! You could try to file the high side of the dove tail, allowing the sight to square up... Since the dovetails might get deeper this way, you might have POI issues but that's not so bad. Hmm, now I'm wondering if the dovetails ARE square!?
Just a thought, but how about having the gunsmith fill in the dovetails with a soldered in blank, then recut them level? I've read of this being done, but never had it done.
Joe
You would need to cut the dovetail both wider and deeper to have enough to work with a filler that could be cut in it afterwards.
What can be done is have the dovetail correction done by recutting it to the next size larger like a .437" or .452", etc. MVA sells sights in all sorts of dovetail widths, so correcting it with a larger dovetail sight would allow it to be saved without a shim.
Simple fix. 1 - UNSCREW the barrel enough to bring dovetails level. 2 - Cut a steel shim to take up gap, measure headspace. 3 - Buy Wisner's oversize locking lug. They're available in .005", .010", .015" oversize, recheck headspace. 4 - Correct front & rear band screw slots and reassemble.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession! AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Just a tang sight wont help, the front sight would still be offset and the front sight is the only one that really needs to be fixed as it will be getting a reciever sight of some sort.
I'm curious about the welding comment though. I've TIG welded quite a bit of chrome moly at work and never noticed it pitting. Big difference of course is I've never welded a rifle barrel are you talking about the inside pitting after use? Done plenty of frames and cages and the like but you dont usually get to look inside those after you've welded on them. Not arguing just curious to learn.
I had a great welder friend years ago. Guy could weld anything. I was putting together a mini Farquensen. Full octagon in 25-20. I didn't want to silver solder the sights on, that can cause scale to form inside the bore. So I took it over and the first thing he told me was this will work but it won't be pretty. He was right, it pitted when he welded the bases on. I filled the pits with black iron wire and peened as much as I could before polishing and blueing. Not too bad. Maybe your experience and a different type of wire/rod then we had would work? Of course not long after I finished all the work on the gun the sear broke! I fought with that build and stuck it in the corner in frustration!
Without knowing what rod as well as gas he was using I wouldnt know. There are still regs on the books for the aircraft industry where they have to oxy fuel weld chromoly airplane parts. Tig can be a tricky process at times, everything has to be perfect. I've often set down tig torch in hand only to realize that step I skimmed over was more important than I thought or sometimes I learn I didnt know as much as I thought.
I hope this doesn't turn into one of "those" projects. It's a nice little carbine, slick action and it only took a few minutes to clean up the trigger. It'd make a nice little truck gun if it shot straight. I should be able to make it up to town and visit the 'smith in a week or two. I'll turn it over to him and see what he comes up with.
Torch weld is fine for tube frames but it sure plays hades on a rifle barrel as you know.
One of my instructors swore by forging bolts and another would only cut, bend and fill with drill rod. To each his own!
I'm sure there is a filler rod/ gas combo that is just right!
Real cheap fast fix - mix some black acraglass and fill those spots!
.***
