Anyone cut down a SxS shotgun?

[cas]

Does anyone here have experience with cut down SxS shotguns? (I know we have pro's here as well)

I got an old Savage SxS that's been cut down, but nothing was ever done to the end. Meaning they filed the muzzle fairly square, but the middle is still open to the end. The space between the rib and bottom filler is wide open.

On a finished/factory gun this gap wouldn't be there, it would be filled in. So I guess my question is other than looks, keeping the dust out and possible barrel regulation, does that filler metal do anything? I'm sure it adds strength to the barrel matting, but is it NEEDED? Is it Ok to use it as is? Should I fill it full of MarineTex? Make a metal block and CAREFULLY low temp solder it in? Leave it as is?

Anyone?

[Pete44ru]

The opening should be sealed off to prevent moisture that will get under a rib edge, then expand when it develops into rust. That will lift/separate the rib from the barrel(s), sooner or later.

Soldering's best, but the ribs are soldered also, and it's easy to loosen them if you're not careful/experienced.
Alternately, a piece of metal can be cut to fit & epoxied in place so the epoxy won't show.

[gamekeeper]

When I worked for Westley Richards I soldered the ribs on and filled the muzzle end with solder. The barrels were then put in a tank of boiling water, if any gaps between the ribs were there, bubbles would come from even the smallest gap. It's important to seal the ribs or water will find its way between the barrels and rust them where you can't see.

[cas]

I'm not worried about "looks", it's a ugly duckling already. A cut at both ends beater. It won't see LOTS of use, just some occasional fun shooting. My main concern is strength/safety.

[Griff]

Whhen I did my wife's, I soldered it up to prevent corrosion.

[El Mac]

Just a thought, but wouldn't JB Weld work??

[cas]

Just a thought, but wouldn't JB Weld work??

Hence the MarineTex question (JB weld for real men! )


(actually they're all similar, like PC11 too)

[oldgerboy]

The shop has done maybe four in the past year. We soldered all of them shut. If yours is just a beater as you say, close the end off with something, anything to keep the moisture out ... it will also look better even as a beater.

[QuarterChoke]

Stuff a wad of fine steel wool in the gap and soft solder over it to fill the void. File all flat, and you are done. There is no need to test to see that the fix is watertight as there will be a vent hole in the lower rib under the forend. On the Savage doubles made in the last 50 years or so, silver braze was used to hold the ribs in place. In that case there is no danger of unsoldering the ribs while putting in the soft solder plug. You can check by taking the forend off and scratching the joint between the rib and barrel with an awl or scribe point. If the solder shows a brassy look, the solder is the high temp silver solder. If the solder appears to be silver, it is probably a low-temp of some sort. In that case you can clamp a couple of pieces of cold rolled steel to the upper and lower ribs to act as heat sinks. Use a flat for the top and a round for the bottom, and work fast.

[Hobie]

Yes, here's the one I did.

[kimwcook]

Nice job Hobie. I just bought a Savage/Stevens 5100 (311) that needs a new buttstock as the old one is cracked pretty good. I'll look into the springs as I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to replace them with current Wolff springs.

[cas]

Welp... solder it was. Heat sink for the bottom rib, and worked fast. Looks pretty good.

Thanks guys.

[20cows]

My dad cut the choke off of my Savage/Stevens 5100 35 years ago. We never did anything for the opening between the barrels. I've never had a problem.

[kimwcook]

I think Hobie and quarterchoke have the situation covered but if not, 86er plays with those shootman guns.