Methods for flattening bullet points

Jason_W · Post by **Jason_W** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:06 am

One of the boxes of .35 Rem I picked up are spire points. I was just going to load and fire them one at a time, but I know some people here make their own flat points.

What are the best tools for this job? How far down do you cut?

Post by **Hobie** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:26 am

Most I know just cut the lead tips off. Some cases they use one of those little Harbor Freight cut-off saws.

Are you talking about the 150 gr. Remington load?

Jason_W · Post by **Jason_W** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:29 am

Hobie wrote:Are you talking about the 150 gr. Remington load?

Yes, I grabbed a box because they were comparitively cheap, but failed to notices the "PSP" written on the side of the box.

handirifle · Post by **handirifle** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:39 am

Jason, the HF cut off saw usually works pretty good. Another way, that I use on the Barnes bullets, and it faster and cheaper, is to drill a hole in a block of aluminum, that the bullet just fits in, with the tip exposed, by the amount you want to cut off.

I do mine with 3/4 X 3/4" alum bar, cut to length. I then slice a slot down the side, and place it ine a vice. The slot allows the vice to close the block around the bullt, clamping it for the cut. If not, it will turn. I then use a hack saw.

Another way is to put it into a drill press and use a saw blade while it's spinning. It take a bit of trial and error but it doesn't take a lot of force to hold the bullet.

jnyork · Post by **jnyork** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:15 pm

I make my own flat points for my 33WCF using the 225 grain Hornady spire points. I put a 30-30 trim die in my RCBS press, then run the bullet up into the die using a piece of dowel between the press ram and the bullet. The tip of the bullet sticks out of the die just the right amount, nick it off with a file. Works great, every bullet a uniform length and weight.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:30 pm

Methods for flattening bullet points:

Shoot something with them.

Several to sight in, one in the chamber, one in the tube. That's most of a box.

If you are shooting something that requires more than two 35 Rem slugs, you need more gun.

Ray · Post by **Ray** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:34 pm

I've used the load you mention with no problem from Marlin rifles. Remington would not sell them if they were not safe to use in the most common rifle for that cartridge.

As for flattening bullet tips in loaded ammo: wire cutters, file, belt sander are all good. It only takes a light touch with belt sander. Even a bench grnder will work if you use the side of the wheel so as not to fill the wheel face with lead.

How much? Up to you. Trial and error. Aim for consistency. Sort them by O.A.L. by measuring with caliper or stand them up side by side on flat surface and eyeball them. Shoot enough to verify regulation. It ain't rocket science. I think it was Wayne Van Zwoll who did a test with trimmed tips to simulate magazine loading battering. Even different lengths and lopsided ones grouped with the rest at 100 yds.

Texican · Post by **Texican** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:01 am

Tycer wrote:Methods for flattening bullet points: Shoot something with them.

Dang, beat me to it...

Jaguarundi · Post by **Jaguarundi** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:32 am

Texican wrote:
Tycer wrote:Methods for flattening bullet points: Shoot something with them.
Dang, beat me to it...

+1

Post by **Hobie** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:34 am

Jason_W wrote:
Hobie wrote:Are you talking about the 150 gr. Remington load?
Yes, I grabbed a box because they were comparitively cheap, but failed to notices the "PSP" written on the side of the box.

this is my opinion based on my experience with the bullet in two cartridges, the .35 Rem and the .357 max. Fire them single shot for familiarization and reload the brass. don't waste your time trying to "improve" them. Not worth the effort.

Nath · Post by **Nath** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:42 am

I recently got some tool steel threaded to match my press and bored it to accept a loaded round. This allows me to poke the tip through the top and file how ever much I want off. It,s not difficult, maybe a die as others have said is available to do the same task.
Nath.

preventec47 · Post by **preventec47** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:11 pm

Eyeball it on a bench grinder. Takes about two seconds each.
I do it mostly taking FMJ tips off milsurp ammo to make
hunting bullets. They look just like 30-30 ammo when done.
Yea, the lead gets into the grinding wheel but I zap it
with another piece of iron and throw some sparks
and that seems to clean it up.

What I've gotton good at is holding the cartridge at an angle
and spinning in fingers to make the full perimeter of the flat
tip at an angle.

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:17 pm

preventec47 wrote:Eyeball it on a bench grinder. Takes about two seconds each.
I do it mostly taking FMJ tips off milsurp ammo to make
hunting bullets. They look just like 30-30 ammo when done.
Yea, the lead gets into the grinding wheel but I zap it
with another piece of iron and throw some sparks
and that seems to clean it up.

What I've gotton good at is holding the cartridge at an angle
and spinning in fingers to make the full perimeter of the flat
tip at an angle.

You sure thats safe?
I'v read of bullet cores getting shot out leaving the jacket in the bore doing this with FMJ bullets. Most are open at the rear & once the tops cut off its like a lead bullet in a copper tube.

Post by **Chuck 100 yd** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:21 pm

I agree with Tycer !! Shooting them against a heavy steel plate will do it also!

buckeyeshooter · Post by **buckeyeshooter** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:32 pm

For my 50 alaskan-- I take a 535 grain woodleigh and pinch off the exposed tip with side cuts, then take some sandpaper and sand the profile to a flatpoint --- don't want a mag tube detonation on this baby!!