Loose Forend Wood

[BruceB]

I recently got a Winchester 94 "Classic" 26" octagon .30-30. It is in great shape except that the forend is loose and slides fore and aft just enough to be annoying. Any suggestions on a fix for this condition?

[Centennial]

I would shoot it first for accuracy on paper. See how it does now.
Loose fore and aft fore-arm wood is one of the tuning methods for leverguns to get rid of tight spots/pressure points.

[Tycer]

I would shoot it first for accuracy on paper. See how it does now.
Loose fore and aft fore-arm wood is one of the tuning methods for leverguns to get rid of tight spots/pressure points.

Yes! They should move.

[J Miller]

Loose forearms drive me up a wall. The inertia of the moving wood can bend forearm screws and hangers too.

A forearm that is too tight and binds might affect accuracy, but one that is fitted so it doesn't move won't cause any problems.

What I do is coat everything at the front of the receiver and bottom of the barrel with a release agent, then I use bedding epoxy on the rear of the forearm and gently seat it so it sits all the way forward with the screws in place. When it cures I clean it off and the forearm does not move back and forth, nor does it bind.

Joe

[Pete44ru]

.

That octagon Classic has a forend tethered via two screws, through a forend cap, into tapped holes in either side of a forearm tenon dovetailed into the bottom of the bbl, and should not move under normal circumstances.
(IME, with over 30 different leverguns during the past 45 years - including "rifle" models.)

IMO, somethings not right, with either the FE wood, or the FE securing system - and I would respectfully suggest a FE disassembly for a knowledgeable peek @ what's going on there.

If the tenon's securely mounted in it's bbl dovetail, I would suspect someone has "floated" the FE wood, in an attempt @ better accuracy, ILO learning how to properly shoot a gun with a 2-piece stock (which method is different from shooting a boltgun accurately).

.

[Canuck Bob]

A loose forearm would drive me crazy to. I understand the need to keep it from pinching the hardware too tightly but sliding around seems a little too much the other way.

[Chuck 100 yd]

I had one that was loose. I did a fix similar to Joe`s explanation.

[3leggedturtle]

Cut off a piece of bicycle innertube to take up the slack and stop it from being annoying,

[AJMD429]

A little 'dab' of silicone caulk worked fairly well on one of mine (Marlin, forend cap style 1894), and left it compressible enough that I could still actually get the screws back in the holes. (One thing I hate about most leverguns is the way the forend attaches...)

[K1500]

You am also be able to use small sliver of wood (toothpick) as a small wedge. It will come back out when you take the fore end off again, but how often do you really do that? The inner tube solution sounds like it would work as well, but I have never tried it.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Once, many years ago, I used a piece of matchbook cover between the forend and receiver to take the slack out of one. I always thought it could retain moisture and cause rust though.