Winchester 94 Question

[caltx01]

I have a Winchester model 94 made in 1971. It is an exceptionally accurate rifle and I have ended the reign of many ild pigs on my farm with it.

The only problem with it is that the trigger pull is extremely light. i have been asked by others to allow them to shoot it but I am reluctant to do so because of the light trigger pull. My question is what would be involved with increasing the trigger pull weight on this gun. Can it be done by increasing the sear depth (filing) or will it require a new trigger?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

[Hagler]

caltx01,

Welcome to the forum!

Does you lower tang & spring arangement look like this one?:



Hammer, et al:





Shawn

[caltx01]

Shawn -

Yes, that is the same configuration as my 1971 model 94.

[Tycer]

Pull the tang and make sure the full-cock notch is clean, the sear is not broken, and then loosen the helper spring screw, tighten the securing screw for the main spring and then tighten the smaller screw for the helper spring very snug. That series of 94s had pretty light triggers. Not scary light, but nice light.

[gundownunder]

Is it so light that it is unsafe, or is it just that it is much lighter than others you have tried?
Heck, most of us want a lighter trigger and will send our guns to the smith to have the work done, you got it for free.

[Larkbill]

My 94 is also from the early 70's and has a really light trigger. I always figured someone paid to make it that way. It's wonderful.

[caltx01]

I like a fairly light trigger as well, but I consider this one unsafe. It takes little more than a touch of the finger to release it. Also, a sharp slap on the butt of the gun will cause the hammer to release. This is certainly not a good thing.

It's funny, but the best trigger action on any of my 7 lever guns is on my 125 year old Winchester 1873. I wish all the others were just like it!

[Model 52B]

I agree that if it fails the bump test as you've described, it's too light.

Now, it should be caught by the half cock notch when that happens as well as the trigger is not actually pulled. If not, then you've got additional problems.

If the engagement between the hammer and sear looks sound, and does not feel sticky (which would suggests it's worn through the face hardened surface into the softer/tougher core metal), then I'd try replacing the hammer spring and the trigger stop spring. Stronger hammer and trigger stop springs will increase the pull weight.

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All springs maintained under stress will take a set over time. How much time is the issue of debate and that depends on the metal, how it was heat treated formed and/or stress relieved, and how close to it's limits it's been stored at under tension or compression, as well as things like hydrogen embrittlement and rust.

You'll get lots of arguments on that point and someone will invariably bring out a 150 year old firearm with great springs as an example of springs lasting forever - but it's not an example that applies to most firearms. It's safer to assume that over a period of a few to several decades springs stored in tension or compression will eventually start to gradually weaken.

Coil springs in particular are heavily stressed by the forming process, so they are particularly susceptible to weakening over time. (which is one reason the 150 year old weapons with flat springs are more likely to continue working just fine.