New TOY! Not Lever Operated...

[Griff]

But, it will have at least ONE lever on it!


I don't know if my son or RKrodle is the bad influence... but found this yesterday... and it HAD to be mine!

Now, I can't decide if its to become a 22" or 24" fluted barrel, but it'll be one of those, free-floating handguard, fixed stock, 5.56NATO, with either a 3.5-21, 4x-16 or 6-24 carrying handle.

Anyone have a Vortex scope?

[JohndeFresno]

These things are selling like hotcakes in California, in preparation of the solons possibly banning them. Word of advice from a gunsmith that I talked with just yesterday:
If your setup doesn't fit exactly, don't touch it with a file! Most good gunsmiths have jig setups for the AR family components, now, that will accommodate your other components for a fair fee.

[MrMurphy]

I'd go with a midweight 20" 1/8 twist if you want long range. With almost all 5.56 loads, a 22 or 24 is just extra weight, it's not doing anything more ballistically. Majority of 5.56 loads are made for either 20" or 14.5" barrels.

[JerryB]

Griff, as old as I am I hate to say it here but those things are really FUN!!! My grandson built one for me when he got back from the Afgahn mountains.

[AJMD429]

Does it really have three-positions for the 'on-off' switch. . . ???

[jdad]

I've got a Noveske, with their 18" stainless barrel on mine....polygonal rifled. It also has their NSR rail and a Weaver tactical. It's just a very accurate range toy.

[Griff]

Does it really have three-positions for the 'on-off' switch. . . ???

It would require some judicious milling, but... if you're so inclined, it could, have "stop", "go" & "go more" positions.

harry, thanks for the link.

[RKrodle]

But, it will have at least ONE lever on it!


I don't know if my son or RKrodle is the bad influence... but found this yesterday... and it HAD to be mine!

Now, I can't decide if its to become a 22" or 24" fluted barrel, but it'll be one of those, free-floating handguard, fixed stock, 5.56NATO, with either a 3.5-21, 4x-16 or 6-24 carrying handle.

Anyone have a Vortex scope?

Just glad I can be an influence on somebody,.........even if it's a bad influence.

[AJMD429]

What are the positions, then - it looks like the 'stops' are 180 degrees apart that the safety lever would hit; the ones on my AR's are 90 degrees apart, so you just have two positions for the safety.

(In case anyone is wondering, no I don't want to make my own NFA item, even using whatever the 'Form 1' is or whatever - I'd waste too much ammo, and never thought full-auto on anything not belt-fed made much sense.)

[Griff]

What are the positions, then - it looks like the 'stops' are 180 degrees apart that the safety lever would hit; the ones on my AR's are 90 degrees apart, so you just have two positions for the safety.

(In case anyone is wondering, no I don't want to make my own NFA item, even using whatever the 'Form 1' is or whatever - I'd waste too much ammo, and never thought full-auto on anything not belt-fed made much sense.)

The way it's milled, it can only have "safe" and "fire", not burst or sustained.

[pwl44m]

With an M16 safety it will go to all 3 positions but without the auto sear it won't go full.
Perry

[Griff]

Got the upper and new stock for my toy today... went to the scope store and bought a scope... Paid more'n I've ever spent on a scope, tho' it ain't the most expensive scope I've had...

Here's the upper and scope mounted on my lower I bought last year... I still need an A2 buffer tube to complete the new lower. But, for now, I can go sight it in, and see what I'm working with as far as the barrel & upper are concerned.

24" SS fluted barrel, 1:8; scope is a Vortex 6-25x50 MRAD, .10 mil adjustments with illuminated reticle. Should be great prairie dog gun... now, all I have to do is go p-dog huntin'! For now, a paper puncher!

Anyone know if I need a "castle-nut" for the buffer tube? I haven't seen one pictured on any fixed stock. If not, how do you make sure the tube is tight?

[Old Ironsights]

But, it will have at least ONE lever on it!...

The one that says "Pew-Pew-Pew!" ?



This one is good...


As is this for the Tweeter Generation...


But, when it comes right down to it...

[Glenn]

Griff,
That looks kinda familiar. I bought a stripped lower and a parts kit last year, finally assembled it last weekend. Wasn't paying very close attention when I tapped the trigger guard pin in. Yep, wrong side of the gap. No wonder the pin wouldn't go all the way in.

Will build this into a 300 Blackout, but for 110-150 gr. bullets, no cans or subsonic. Heavy varmint / light deer rifle. I already have a Colt H-bar for the 5.56 tasks.
Glenn

[Griff]

Four shots thru new upper to get it close... then 3 into .365"! This barrel shows some promise!

[Glenn]

NICE!
Glenn

[COSteve]

Done

[Griff]

Griff, you're going for accuracy with all the other components so you should rethink your chamber choice. The 5.56 NATO chamber isn't the most accurate while the Wylde chamber is but takes the pressure levels of the 5.56. Typically, a good Wylde chambered 1:8 barrel will produce 0.5MOA groups with match ammo while a good NATO chambered barrel 1:8 or 1:7 barrel will produce 1.0 - 1.5MOA groups with match ammo.

There are some potentially tangible benefts to a Wylde chamber over a .223 & 5.56 chamber, but from my reading, it's mostly when shooting .223 Match ammo in the Wylde vs a 5.56 chamber. Since almost all my ammo will be either plinking with 5.56 milsurp and using that brass to handload ammo both for 3-Gun practice or hunting applications, I can tailor my handloads to this rifle, regardless of its chamber. So many choices:

If, I were interested in NRA Hi-Power, yes, the Wylde chamber would be prime interest, but i would've had a indeterminate wait for my upper, plus would have spent ½ again as I did on the upper. As it sits, I'm under $1700 for the whole rifle, including a match grade trigger, making slightly more'n half of which is in my scope & mount...

Other'n just five rounds of handloaded ammo the other 9 rounds were M193 milsurp. And they're what produced the .356" 3-shot group. Yet, I'm still only optimistic for the rifle's full potential. Yesterday's shoooting was off my Windham Weaponry lower, with its less than solid collapsible buttstock. I'm for for thhe Pacific Northwer and then back to TX by the end of next week. The supplier has shipped my fixed buffer tube, (somehow omitted from the package), so I can actually finish assembly of how I envision its final form.

If it has any issues with accuracy, I'm sure they're more "me" than the rifle! I guess what I'm saying is that I went with price and availability, and will have to live with the consequences!

I'd go with a midweight 20" 1/8 twist if you want long range. With almost all 5.56 loads, a 22 or 24 is just extra weight, it's not doing anything more ballistically. Majority of 5.56 loads are made for either 20" or 14.5" barrels.

MrMurphy,
Yes, it's weighty alright! But out of the same can of Federal M193 ammo, my 16" Windham Weaponry SRC produced 2953fps over 5 shots; my son's Colt Commpetition 20" averaged 3053fps; and this 24" got 3163fps. All shots with the chronograph set about 10' from the muzzle.

[Sixgun]

Griff,
Be a man and get that baby color case hardened! I've been thinking of something like that. YOU could be the first at Leverguns to have such a cool toy.

Then.....be a bigger man and chamber it to the big 50! Now that would be a toy!----6

A humongous man would have one of these fun switches added.

[Griff]

6,

I'll leave that CCH treatment for you to be FIRST! I did see that AR10 by Turnbull... mighty nice. Go fot it! I would like that switch, but my ammo supply wouldn't!

[7.62 Precision]

24" SS fluted barrel, 1:8; scope is a Vortex 6-25x50 MRAD, .10 mil adjustments with illuminated reticle.

Anyone know if I need a "castle-nut" for the buffer tube? I haven't seen one pictured on any fixed stock. If not, how do you make sure the tube is tight?

No Need for a castle nut. The A2 tube screws into the reciever and comes up tight against a shoulder on the tube. Make sure you have an A2 spacer if it is a standard A2 stock.

Then just get a hacksaw and cut that barrel off to about 20" - it's all you need . . .

[7.62 Precision]

Griff, you're going for accuracy with all the other components so you should rethink your chamber choice. The 5.56 NATO chamber isn't the most accurate while the Wylde chamber is but takes the pressure levels of the 5.56. Typically, a good Wylde chambered 1:8 barrel will produce 0.5MOA groups with match ammo while a good NATO chambered barrel 1:8 or 1:7 barrel will produce 1.0 - 1.5MOA groups with match ammo.

I have seen plenty of 5.56 chambers that shoot .5 MOA groups. I think the 5.56 chamber does not always make the difference that people expect. Maybe for a serious competition shooter the Wylde chamber would give more peace of mind, but I have always seen very good results with a quality barrel and a 5.56 chamber. I have nothing against the Wylde chamber, and would much prefer it to a .223 chamber, but I generally lean toward a 5.56 chamber myself, even in match barrels for hunting or sniping use. For the competition guys, any possible edge can help.

[Griff]

24" SS fluted barrel, 1:8; scope is a Vortex 6-25x50 MRAD, .10 mil adjustments with illuminated reticle.
Anyone know if I need a "castle-nut" for the buffer tube? I haven't seen one pictured on any fixed stock. If not, how do you make sure the tube is tight?

No Need for a castle nut. The A2 tube screws into the reciever and comes up tight against a shoulder on the tube. Make sure you have an A2 spacer if it is a standard A2 stock.

Then just get a hacksaw and cut that barrel off to about 20" - it's all you need . . .

Stock is an ACE ARFX full length fixed.

I think I'll leave the hacksaw in to tool box for now, I'm kinda paartial to that 100 extra fps; 'sides it'd make the fluting look funny!

[Griff]

Final setup:



Now, to see if it can repeat this:

[2ndovc]

Cool!

jb