stock question

[plstktnkr2]

In a large bore levergun with substantial recoil, would it be advisable to use walnut instead of maple?

[Griff]

Since hardwoods vary in density, and IIRC Walnut is slightly denser than Maple, the weight of the wood would help asorb recoil... although I think it would be minimal. Of more importance would be the "fit" of the stock, the width and angle of the buttplate to the action. I don't know all the particulars about that stuff, just know that all those play a factor in felt recoil.

[Leverdude]

I think Maple is harder & more prone to splitting that walnut if thats what you mean.

[plstktnkr2]

Leverdude , that was what I was told, but I saw a Sharps "Old West Maple" and got to wondering if it would hold up on a 50-110 (smokeless loads) that I was going to build from a brand-new 1886 Winchester-Browning.

[Tycer]

Maple should do fine if you pick a piece with the grain running good.
Glass bedding the tang will go a long way to protecting a stock. Spreading the forces over a larger area greatly reduces the pounds per square inch.
I've also seen where stocks on leverguns have been drilled lengthwise and attached by a threaded rod run through the stock to a tee nut that's been threaded onto the tang screw and tightened to the receiver by a nut concealed by the butt plate. That would certainly reduce or eliminate any fore and aft movement of the stock which would also reduce or eliminate any hammering effect in the tang area.

[FLINT]

I don't know anything about what makes wood good for stocks, but your question about maple vs. walnut, would really depend on which species of maple you are talking about.

soft maple (red and silver) are lighter/softer/less dense than walnut, whereas hard maple (sugar and black) is harder/denser/heavier than walnut. I think most curly maple is hard maple. I don't know if any woods have specific qualities - like that they would absorb shock better than others or not. walnut and black cherry are very similar in terms of density - they are medium density hardwoods.

[adirondakjack]

Walnut is traditonal because of it's ease of working and uniform grain. Structurally it's nothing special. Piano sound boards are made of rock maple. It don't get much tougher.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Don't worry friend. A piece of maple with similar grain flow will have as much strength as walnut.

[plstktnkr2]

Ok guys thanks for the input. I will build the rifle and seek guidance from a stock supplier. I wanted a curley maple wood, Stained a reddish "Colonial Red" similar to that Birchwood-Casey color. coupled with the octagonal barrel it should look sweet. I wish I could do a browned finish with color case-hardened look to the reciever.

That configuration may sound warped to some, but I'll tell you I'm not normal in my tastes in things.
Rick

[Leverdude]

Most every stock I'v ever seen split on a levergun split because the tang was recieving the recoil forces. Many factory guns have a space between the reciever flare & shoulder of the buttstock where recoil forces should be transfered from steel to wood. Since the tangs are tapered if theres space behind the flare theres not much keeping the tang from acting like a log splitter. I always bed the reciever flare to the buttstok as well as bed the tangs. When I first started tinkering with gun stocks my smith said its a real good idea to leave a very small reliefe at the end of the tang just in case the gun settled back into the stock with use. Now I bed them I dont worry much but I do always leave a little room for epoxy at the end of the tang.

[plstktnkr2]

Thank you all much for the replies. This has been very useful information.
Rick