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I had a shoulder injury years ago that's
been bothering me lately and my thinking is that a bow might help
build my shoulder muscles back up again and I just
finished a book where the main character had a long bow. Got me thinking(usually costs me money ).
Big question is where to start. I've shot a couple recurves and a couple compound bows.
Kind of prefer the simplicity of the recurve.
What weight pull should I be looking for?
I'm 6'2" and about 260#.
Brand?
Don't want to spend a fourtune right off the bat but what shoud a good first bow run?
Any suggestions?
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
I recommend a Martin (and I prefer the take-down) like the Jaguar that can be purchased for under $200. PSE make one like it that is as good. They are basic recurves available in different draw weights. You have to consider that the draw weight of the bow is based on a pull length. If you over-draw because you have a longer reach, or under-draw due to a shorter reach you can generally +/- 1.5 t0 2 pounds per inch over/under. If you are going to hunt you have to consider the legal minimum draw weight. I shoot a 60" Bear (Made in 1964) at 35# @28". I am over-drawing a little. It works out to 38# of draw weight. That is legal for deer in a lot of places. I have killed deer and other similar sized critter out to 25 yds with this set-up. I wouldn't shoot it further due to the low draw weight. I'm NOT using traditional arrows. I use carbon 320's with feather fletching and a fixed blade broadhead. The arrow weight and balance helps get the most out of the 38# draw for my purposes. FWIW, I have a bad right shoulder and I shoot bow right handed. I cannot draw a lot of weight or my shoulder will swell considerably. I could not practice consistently with a 50# recurve because it is too much for my shoulder. My compound bow breaks at 38# and carries to 52# draw weight. It has taken deer, bear and other big game out to 40 yds with no want. So, look for something 50# or less, around 60-65" in overall length and you probably need 28" draw but could use up to 30" draw. Let me know if you have any questions, just call me.
Joe has it The longer the limbs the more forgiving to shoot a bow is generally. I am no way expert and can not hunt over here but my recurve is about 45# and I use wooden and carbon shafts with my own broadheads, whipped and glued on blades for the wooden shafts and machined/welded broadheads on the carbons with single bevel cutting edges, work ok.
I no longer like to use my wheel bow, I find it hard work with my not so good shoulder, I find in the field it a pain to draw quickly and tend to draw to early and even with 80% let off it still hurts trying to hold it where as the recurve is drawn just before the shot and can be half drawn and held easy compared to the compound (wish I never bought it!)
The simplicity of a trad bow compared to all the gadjets of a compound for me personaly are a joy.
I like the looks of the Martin and the take down part is just cool!
I have a nice bonus check comming next week and was going to keep a couple hundred for play money.
I think I'll go see If I can find some locally to handle.
Nath,
In the land that brought us the Long Bow you can't hunt with a bow?
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
Check the pages over at www.tradgang.com you will meet a great bunch of guys there. The Jaguar would be a good choice, but I would differ on the PSE as you'll see on trad gang people have had some bad experiences with them and there is a lack of customer service.
i have a 50# and a 60# Martin Vision. Martins are great bows, their only drawback, if you can call it that is that they pull a bit more than they are marked.
If you're gonna be stupid ya gotta be tough-
Isiah 55:8&9
It's easier to fool people than it is to convince them they have been fooled.
I have been shooting traditional archery for 4 decades so I'm a little partial. I typically shoot 5-10 dozen arrows a day out of my longbow. I have owned dozens of bows of recurve or longbow designs. The recurve has advantages in a center cut riser, meaning the arrow does not have to curve around the riser to hit its mark. For your size, a 62 inch recurve of the style and looks that appeal to you would be just about right. You can hunt with 45# bow and you might consider a take down so that you could get different limbs later. I shoot a 65# longbow, takedown, made by wes wallace. I have gone to just this bow for all my shooting. I sent mescalaro my other longbow of 54# which was a great all round bow. I shoot frogs, turtles, squirrels, rabbits, pheasant, wood ducks, deer, and all other sorts of game and varmits. Personally, either a 62 inch recurve (I loved my Brackenberry) or a longbow of a good make would serve you for a life time. My wes wallace has over a 250,000 arrows through it and looks new.
Mike Johnson,
"Only those who will risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Eliot
Thanks for the input.
That's some neat stuff on the Wallace site. I bookmarked it for when I've got some more money to spend.
I would really like a long bow.
I can see where this can get as addictive as lever guns!
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
Jason, there are many options to choose from,most are all good. Yes traditional archery can become very addictive. I would reccomend a bow of 40# draw weight to begin with. learning to shoot and develop good form is the #1 thing.when You are shooting small groups is when archery is fun. it is very important that whatever bow You get You also have matched (correct spine) in the arrows. if You haven't seen them before Three Rivers Archery is nearby in Indiana, and they live Traditional Archery. I have ordered from them for years.Good Luck.Have Fun. http://www.3riversarchery.com/
.45colt wrote:Jason, there are many options to choose from,most are all good. Yes traditional archery can become very addictive. I would reccomend a bow of 40# draw weight to begin with. learning to shoot and develop good form is the #1 thing.when You are shooting small groups is when archery is fun. it is very important that whatever bow You get You also have matched (correct spine) in the arrows. if You haven't seen them before Three Rivers Archery is nearby in Indiana, and they live Traditional Archery. I have ordered from them for years.Good Luck.Have Fun. http://www.3riversarchery.com/
Ooooh!
More cool stuff!!
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
Jason a 50lb bow will take anything you need on this continent a inexpensive takedown by martin or pse would work cabelas website has a few for 200$ to 250$. danny
I greatly prefer a compound, -- once the sights are set up properly, it is as accurate as some of my leverguns within 35 yards.
That said, my bow is a hunting "tool" for lack of a better term, and i dont shoot it much for therapeutic reasons (stress relief, etc.)
I spent as much for my archery outfit as i would for a nice rifle, but i justified it in my mind, as archery season is much longer than rifle season and i am carrying and using the bow lots more than any of my rifles in the field as a result.
You dont have to spend that much though, but whichever choice you make, i would get fitted at a dedicated archery shop, as pull length varies so greatly from person to person -- and using a release can affect length of pull as well. My brother and i are the same height (5'9") -- but he uses a short mechanical release and i use a target style string release --- my LOP is 28" and his is 30" --- we can't even effectively shoot each other's bows
GO TO ....WWW.QUINNSARCHERY.COM., A FAMILY RUN OPERATION,EVERYTHING IS A BARGAIN.
For a guy your size I wouldn't go shorter than a 64" inch bow,if it is only a target bow go longer.
Start with no more than 40 lb pull,no sense going heavier when developing form,40 lbs is also plenty if you plan on deer hunting.
I've been shooting traditional since before it was traditional, 40yrs this year. I'll second much of what is said above. At your size, I would guess your draw length will end up in the 28-30 inch range and keep in mind that a bow in the 50-55lb range will pick up about 3lbs per inch of increased draw.
Biggest mistake you could make is to try to shoot too much draw weight. I would suggest 45 to 50lbs for a start, and frankly when I built and sold bows I suggested to many folks not to rush out and spend big bucks right off the bat. A good used bow can sometimes be the best bet, course you do have to know what to look for. Get your feet wet first, and then you'll have a better idea of what you want and need.
Another idea is to go to the magazine rack and pick up a copy of Traditional Bowhunter Magazine. There is a lot of traditional archery shoots going on this time of year and you will see their ads in there. At the bigger shoots you will see a lot of dealers with both new and used bows, they will answer questions and give advice. I know the Michigan Longbow Invitational is coming up in August. It would be a good one to attend if you don't mind a little drive.
Like the others have said a recurve or longbow in the 40# to 45# range is enough to start with and a 40# bow is legal in most eastern states I think. If you get any heavier that shoulder will get weaker instead of stonger, and that is very discouraging. I tore up my left shoulder a few years ago and could not extend my bow arm fully, it took along time to get started again.
This is something you will get deep into real quick, enjoy it.
JerryB II Corinthians 3:17, Now the Lord is that Spirit: and where the Spirit of the Lord is, there is liberty.
Don't get hung up on brand name. Everyone will tell you their favorite bow (or whatever they sell) is the best. In general, a $600.00 bow by Bear, Martin, Hoyt, PSE, etc. will pretty much equal, the same way a $300.00 bow from the same name brands will be close. Shoot every different bow you can to see what feels comfortable. If you're going to stick to a recurve or longbow, don't get hung up on poundage. A high poundage bow will wear you out and you'll have a hard time hitting anything with it. When I was growing up my dad hunted with a recurve. He was a very strong man and could have probably hunted with a 70lb recurve if he wanted, but he used a 45lb bow. He could shoot it accurately and shoot it all day long without getting tired.
Probably I am not the right guy to take much from on archery stuff for sure.
The guys like Mike or 86er for sure know there stuff and thats about as good as it gets.Also I am sure some of the other guys on here know there stuff on it as well(not me)
I think the longbow would be cool and that is indeed what seems about as good as it gets to being to the back in the day primative hunting! (just seems really cool)
I would definetly start with some slow building exercise movements seeing you have prior shoulder injury issues(dont want to make it worse)
Up here it seems for the coumpounds almost everyone wants/has the Matthews Solo Cams ????
I have a Hoyt Super Slam Extreme(its ok)its fast but the full cam pulls hard a long ways through the pull before let off!
I am sure there are better ones than what I have.
The big issue,dont get hung up on poundage(like Uncle Ted says 50lbs is enough to kill deer)
I can almost guarentee you if you go with some of your buddies with some that shoot bow, and you start pulling a bunch of new diffrent bows after about 5 or 6 you will be grunting red faced and probably for the nesxt 2 weeks will be putting Bengay ointment on that sore shoulder!
Totally different muscles are used when pulling a bow than just arm strength etc.
Also when hunting say when its 35 degrees out and you are dressed in a bunch of clothes standing in your stand pulling on it then that 50-60lbs with feel like 65-75lbs. Just dont let the macho poundage thing ruin your liking and discourage you from becoming a happy archer.
Good Luck Friend! OK-----------(I say get the longbow)
OK, a nice used bow, 45 lb pull.
nice arrows match to the pull of your bow.
don't forget a good glove, my finger tips are what give out on me first.
good luck.
I'm going to stop at Gander Mtn. on the way home and talk to the
archery guy there and then make a run to Cabela's this weekend.
I'd like to get my hands on something before I order it.
One concern I've got is that I have really long arms and
and don't want to buy something that doesn't fit.
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
Jason,
Only thing I have seen is some of the guys at those big chain places are not that much of an expert.
(they have others also that provide backup etc when out and so on)
Is there any smaller "archery dedicated only shops" around that you could talk to the shops main man "pro guy"?
Tell him you are thinking about getting a bow pretty soon and ask if there is a fee to have you measured up for the proper specs.
Even if he says yep,its $15 it could be one of the best $15 you have ever spent? Also talk to him about bows and what you want to do with them and get his advice.
Reason I say this is last time I was at Gander Mountain(which I love the place)the gun guy(for that day )was trying to tell me that I should buy .45 230gr FMJ ammo instead of the 200 JHP +P ammo I went there to purchase. (now mind you, this was fo self protection/ home defense)?????
Didn't matter cause after about 5 mins of that stuff he said "we are out of what you want anyway"!
madman4570 wrote:Jason,
Only thing I have seen is some of the guys at those big chain places are not that much of an expert.
(they have others also that provide backup etc when out and so on)
Is there any smaller "archery dedicated only shops" around that you could talk to the shops main man "pro guy"?
Tell him you are thinking about getting a bow pretty soon and ask if there is a fee to have you measured up for the proper specs.
Even if he says yep,its $15 it could be one of the best $15 you have ever spent? Also talk to him about bows and what you want to do with them and get his advice.
Reason I say this is last time I was at Gander Mountain(which I love the place)the gun guy(for that day )was trying to tell me that I should buy .45 230gr FMJ ammo instead of the 200 JHP +P ammo I went there to purchase. (now mind you, this was fo self protection/ home defense)?????
Didn't matter cause after about 5 mins of that stuff he said "we are out of what you want anyway"!
I know what you mean.
There's guys at our GM that know what they're talking about and those who don't.
One of them actually talked a guy out of buying a pistol because he had no idea
what he was doing. We both suggested that he take an NRA firearms course first.
The guy agreed and admitted that he hadn't even handled a gun before.
I don't know if there are any true archery shops around but I'll look.
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
I started shooting recurves in about 1965. As others have said, a 40 to 50 pound bow is a good starting point and you don't have to spend a fortune to get started. I am going to put in a plug for buying a used bow. I haven't looked recently, but you can get good used bows on ebay. Do an ebay search for Howatt. Before Damon Howatt Archery was bought out by Martin, they produced top of the line recurve bows. I have two that are as good now as the day I bought them. They usually sell on ebay for $150 or less. About the only thing to watch for in a used bow is twisted limbs, which is caused by improperly stringing the bow. Archery is a great means of toning up and I love the way the arrows fly toward the target. Have fun!
A longer bow provides more forgiving release than a short one. I suggest you look for 62 inches or longer. 55 lbs. is plenty of power for hunting & target shooting.
If you check eBay regularly, you will find one of these recurve bows for about $125.
- Damon Howitt crafted bows for Martin; quality is exceptional.
- BEN PEARSON
- Wing Archery Co.
- Howard Hill
Good shooting to you.
TR
Fire Up the Grill - Hunting is NOT Catch & Release!
madman4570 wrote:Jason,
Only thing I have seen is some of the guys at those big chain places are not that much of an expert.
(they have others also that provide backup etc when out and so on)
Is there any smaller "archery dedicated only shops" around that you could talk to the shops main man "pro guy"?
Tell him you are thinking about getting a bow pretty soon and ask if there is a fee to have you measured up for the proper specs.
Even if he says yep,its $15 it could be one of the best $15 you have ever spent? Also talk to him about bows and what you want to do with them and get his advice.
Reason I say this is last time I was at Gander Mountain(which I love the place)the gun guy(for that day )was trying to tell me that I should buy .45 230gr FMJ ammo instead of the 200 JHP +P ammo I went there to purchase. (now mind you, this was fo self protection/ home defense)?????
Didn't matter cause after about 5 mins of that stuff he said "we are out of what you want anyway"!
I know what you mean.
There's guys at our GM that know what they're talking about and those who don't.
One of them actually talked a guy out of buying a pistol because he had no idea
what he was doing. We both suggested that he take an NRA firearms course first.
The guy agreed and admitted that he hadn't even handled a gun before.
I don't know if there are any true archery shops around but I'll look.
jb
geobru does have a point---example:
About 8 years ago I was in this small shop(Neils Archery,Endicott,NY)and a professional archer Jim Despart
(for Hoyt)was there and I got talking with him.
Anyway because he gets the bows(free)and was just about same height/reach etc.
He said I have a bow for you "only been used on one "Elk Hunt 2 months ago"(which he took a huge 6X7 with it)
You pay for some of the accessories and the bow is free
So almost new camo Hoyt Super Slam Extreme/Toxonics sights w/mepro lights/flip down inertia rest/6" mercury stabilizer/fletcher T rope release/Bow case/arrow guard/6 arrows/on and on for?????????
$265
I actually kept saying "no sir I cant only give you that-----He kept saying yes you can.
I said "will you sign the bow please" done deal!
He then cronographed its speed (328fps)with me shooting it and we went upstarirs and he instructed me doing a Mule deer video hunt(free)
Total cost $285
I'll put in another plug for 3rivers archery. They are first class all the way. Of all the different forums I've read on I have NEVER heard anyone say anything bad about them.
The advice mike gave about getting a take down recurve is good also. If you buy a, say 45# Jaguar and feel you can handle more later on you won't have to buy a whole new bow. But that's not to say you can't
I remember when I was a kid, the guy that introduced me to archery with a Ben Pearson 45# recurve told me that after you shoot a deer the deer will run off with the arrow bouncing around and with every bounce the broadhead is doing more damage. that was a big selling point for a lot of people. Now people aren't happy unless they get a complete pass through on everything they shoot.
If you're gonna be stupid ya gotta be tough-
Isiah 55:8&9
It's easier to fool people than it is to convince them they have been fooled.
Check out Stickbow.com, also. Recommend going with something that is not going to beat you up. At your height I would guess your draw is longer then the standard 28 inches. Im 54y/0 and backpain is a way of life, I shoot no more then 45#s. I like Martin and shoot their "Stick", I have had more expensive bows and for my needs the "Stick" shoots as well as those high dollar bows.
The best tradition bow that I own is a Martin Hatfield Takedown. I have owned it for probably 15 yrs plus. It has a 60 lb pull at 28 inches. I like 60lbs, but as I get older, and I have an old elbow injury, that bothers me if I shoot a bow a lot, I now wish it was around 50lbs. And I probably need to go down to 50lbs. I don't practice nearly as much as I used to, because of the weight, fortunately I shot enough in the past that it doesn't take a lot of practice for me shoot pretty good at the closer ranges and I never take a long shot anyway, having killed about all of my deer in the 7 to 15 yd range.
My AMO length is 62 inches which as others have pointed out is about perfect. Another thing to look for IMHO is make sure that your new bow is set up or can be easily set up to shoot off of the shelf. You will see lots of tradition recurves sold with an elevated rest, but that's a mistake. You want to get the arrow down as close to the hand as you can, espacally if you are shooting instintively. I don't think I shoot purely instinctive, but it's close, no sights of course, but I do sorta aim a little with the arrow, as I draw the bow. It's the only way I want to shoot a bow, for hunting, now.
Look up some books by G. Fred Asbel, he has a few pope and young credits to his name, and he shoots mostly a recurve bow without sights, and his books are very informative for the beginner and maybe the more experienced shooter also.
Also, I might want to warn you that if you are wanting to shoot recurves, the average bowhunting shop, is not going to help you much, although some are better then others. In my locality, there was time, when I couldn't even get arrows made up to suit me, for my recurves, as all they wanted to make were arrows for compounds with small fletchings, etc. They didn't want to re-adjust their fletching jigs to make me a dozen or two arrows, like I wanted.
I finally ended up buying my own fletching jig, so I make my own arrows, like I wanted, with the proper helical fletching, needed to get my bow to shoot right for me, with hunting broadheads.
Also, with tradition bows, I like a plain old 2 blade broadhead, and the old Bear Razorhead with the little razorblade insert removed has always been a favorite for me, but there others, such as Black Diamonds, for one. I also hand shapen them with a file, and they kill great, and have better penetration then a 3 or 4 blade punch cutter, and they slide off of and around bone better, and keep on going. The only downside is it takes a little more feather to stablize them, as least for me, anyway.
This is my first post here, and I feel kinda strange being able to offer some thoughts on traditional archery equipment on a levergun site. I spent 8 years training and competing prior to the first modern Olympics in which Archery was an official sport. I started back in 1964 with a 35 lb Bear Polar recurve, left handed and went from there. Am now in the process of writing a book on my archery career which ended just months b4 the '72 U.S. Archery team try-outs; due to a totally destroyed left shoulder. B4 you buy any bow, look on eBay [dirty word I know] for some different brand name bows available; Bear, Hoyt, Wing, Black Widow, to name a few. The suggestion about keeping your draw weight down to what is deer legal in your state is an excellent idea. You will probably draw about a 29"-30" arrow which will add some poundage to the actual # the bow is marked. I would go for something in about a 62"-65" length bow, easier to shoot, more forgiving concerning your release. There are really two basic types of finger protection, the glove or the tab.
I still use the tab as it will fit over a pair of light gloves during the fall season. If you can find Micro-Flite arrows of the right size, get them. You can beat the hell out of them and, like the Timex, they keep on ticking. Aluminum arrows are very good, Jas. Easton got it right when he developed the process those many years ago. I haven't shot enough of the carbon arrows to tell you anything about them. I did work in the Easton factory back in the mid '60s while competing on the Easton Amateur Men's Team in '66-'67. Whatever you do, don't overwork the shoulder when you practice. If possible, find an old traditional archer who can give you some help, from proper stance to release to follow-throu. When you feel you can't shoot a good shot, quit for the day. As a senior in HS, I practiced 40 hrs each weekend from fri nite at 6:00 pm to sun nite midnite. It paid off. I hope this has been of some help to you, besides my running off at the release Good luck, and enjoy what is one of the finest sports in the world after S*X.
American by Birth, Christian by Choice & Proud Defender of both the Bill of Rights [NOT the Bull of Privileges as our Un-American residing in the White House would have us believe] & the Constitution of the United States of America.
Charter/Lifer NAHC, Lifer: NRA, Buckmasters, long term Mbr: American Legion, HHI #6960, SAF Life time IN CCW, former USAF CATM NCOIC & finally a worn out Traditional Archer who had a Dream
I like the looks of the Martin and the take down part is just cool!
I have a nice bonus check comming next week and was going to keep a couple hundred for play money.
I think I'll go see If I can find some locally to handle.
Nath,
In the land that brought us the Long Bow you can't hunt with a bow?
jb
if you haven't spent your money yet, this is a smoking buy.
I spotted that one the other day. I was just waiting for my bonus check to hit my account this weekend before I ordered it.
I think it looks like a good place to start.
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
I spotted that one the other day. I was just waiting for my bonus check to hit my account this weekend before I ordered it.
I think it looks like a good place to start.
jb
Please get the lowest draw weight they offer itin to start with. I am 6'1", 280#, but I know that even though I am strong enough to pull a 50# + bow, I can't shoot it properly even though I have had years of training. See previous post. You will use muscles when drawing a bow that you don't use for anything else in the same way; and an overly heavy draw will cause you to make mistakes in your learning process that can take years to correct. It's always easier to go UP in draw # after you learn the proper fundimentals than it is to come down after learning serious mistakes and developing a bad mindset about the whole thing. Do it right the first time and you will enjoy archery for the rest of your life.
I may be a little late to the party, but I have some suggestions based on my experience. I first got involved in the sport of archery in around 1960 or so. My first experience was with olympic style recurve, which I still shoot. But my main interest was, and still is Field Archery.
My advice to you, even if all you intend to do is some hunting and don't intend to compete, is to purchase a used bow in the 30 to 35lb range. I wouldn't be adverse to going even lower than that. These bows can be found easily for around a $100.00 or so, and often much less. I picked up a nice Shakespeare Nacedehah for 10 bucks at a yard sale. Many of these bows shoot just as good today as they did 30 or 40 years ago. As long as the limbs aren't twisted and there are no cracks in the tension area of the riser or limbs you're good to go. This will be your "learner" bow and not your final "hunting rig". I wouldn't worry about hunting animals right now anyway, you've got some work to do first.
The reason for this is because it will be easier for you to learn proper form, which is the most important thing at this point in your archery development. Even a 40 or 45lb bow will become unpleasant to shoot for a new archer after 30 or 40 arrows. This is the main reason I've seen over the years, why new archers become discouraged, they start out over-bowed. Typically within six months, if you are still interested in the sport, you'll be buying another bow anyway, then you'll be able to sell your "beginner" bow quite easily. If you lose interest, you don't have much into the sport(and you can be a good fellow and donate your equipment to a local JOAD program!) Also, it's been my experience with new archers that your draw length will increase an inch or inch and half as you develop your form. Go for a longer bow rather than shorter.
I'd also consider purchasing an inexpensive ILF rig if you don't go used. You can get set up fairly inexpensively, and this will give you a lot more options as far as limb weight and length. The Quinn bows are also quite a good value.
I would also suggest staying away from carbon and wood arrows. Other than the expensive high dollar carbon or carbon AC type arrows,(at $350.00 per dozen or more!) most carbon "hunting" type arrows are way over spined for the poundage of bows being discussed. Stick with aluminum, I'd suggest the inexpensive Easton Jazz or Blues at less than thirty dollars per dozen. Wood arrows you will find extremely frustrating as a beginner! At the poundages discussed I'd say an 1716 or probably an 1816 arrow will do fine. Don't cut them at first, just shoot them full length. And don't worry about tuning at first, you can only tune as well as you can shoot. AFter your form settles in, you can attempt some bare-shaft or walk-back tuning.
As for instruction, if your purpose is to just fling some arrows at a paper plate from twenty yards or so in your back yard, well, it probably doesn't matter. But if you think you'd really like to learn how to shoot, beg, borrow, steal, seek out a coach. Check the NFAA or NAA website for qualified coaches near you. Understand "near you" may be quite a ways away. In the long run, it will pay off in spades and shorten the learning curve considerably. The problem with "teaching" yourself, is you can't see what your doing and it only takes a few arrows to develop bad habits, but it can take months to get rid of them! Dollar for dollar this is the best thing you can spend your "archery" dollars on. Even if you never intend to do anything with your bow but hunt, this will put you way ahead on the learning curve. In lieu of proper instruction, find an archery club in your area, preferably one that has some recurve target shooters(I've lived in various parts of the country throughout my life, and always managed to find one within a few hours drive or closer, of course that was during the "Golden Age of Archery", might be little harder to find one nowadays), anyways, watch the shooters, the guy(or gal) that's putting the majority of their arrows in the "X spot" of an NFAA indoor spot at twenty yards, is the one you want to approach for some instruction. Most will be happy to get you started. As for books, the only one I'd recommend for starters is Rick Mckinny's THE SIMPLE ART OF WINNING.
Longbow or recurve? This is a conundrum that only you will solve. I don't recommend longbows as starter bows for new archers. The inexpensive ones seem to produce more hand shock, which can be very disconcerting to new archers. I'm speaking in general terms here, understand many have learn to shoot quite well starting out with longbows, but generally I've found that it's easier for most people to learn to shoot well starting out with a low poundage recurve. The choice is yours to make.
I hope you find this helpful and good luck in your archery goals. If I can be of any further assistance, let me know.
I spotted that one the other day. I was just waiting for my bonus check to hit my account this weekend before I ordered it.
I think it looks like a good place to start.
jb
Please get the lowest draw weight they offer itin to start with. I am 6'1", 280#, but I know that even though I am strong enough to pull a 50# + bow, I can't shoot it properly even though I have had years of training. See previous post. You will use muscles when drawing a bow that you don't use for anything else in the same way; and an overly heavy draw will cause you to make mistakes in your learning process that can take years to correct. It's always easier to go UP in draw # after you learn the proper fundimentals than it is to come down after learning serious mistakes and developing a bad mindset about the whole thing. Do it right the first time and you will enjoy archery for the rest of your life.
Thank you for all the advice.
I haven't ordered anything yet. If and when I do though it will be the 40# to start with.
Been poking around for a used one but all I coming up with is junk.
A co-worker told me of a good archery shop about an hour from where I live. Going to try to get there as soon as possible.
Thanks again guys!!
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
No one asked the first and most important question; Are you right or left handed? It makes a difference, cause there are very few new bows made today that are less than 50# in a LH'er. I spoke with both Fred Bear & Earl Hoyt, Jr. about this over 40 years ago, with Jim Easton concurring; that the selection for the lefty sucked, and still does today. Even with the compound bows available. BTW, all 4 of us were left handed shooters. To find a good LH'er you must go on eBay or such to find an older, but still sound, lighter weight bow. IN allows 35# as do many other states. The pic is me at 18, with my finest outdoor bow, a 37#, LH Hoyt Pro Medalist ll, made in 1966. I continued to shoot a Bear indoors, for they just seemed to work better for me with a draw of 32#s.
Archery and huntinf Deer-03[1].jpg
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I didn't arrive on the sceen until 1967 but a good frind of my Grandfather's
worked for Bear Archery around that time. He then went to work for Colt
shortly after. Gosh, can't think of his name. I'll have to ask my Dad.
jb
jasonB " Another Dirty Yankee"
" Tomorrow the sun will rise. Who knows what the tide could bring?"
Joe,
I think you are right in that there are fewer and fewer of us left from the Golden Age of Archery. I grew up shooting with Richard McKinney,; lived about 2 hrs away from his home in Muncie, IN. Also had the honor of shooting with Lester "JUGGER" Gervais, the first person to ever shoot a perfect 300 PAA score. I believed it then and still do today that there has never been a better Archer than he was. All the low grip designs on todays bows come from his shooting a Golden Eagle with the grip milled flat by Ernie Root in mid 1966. He was struck down with MS at the age of about 32 and was forced to retire, although every Bow mfg'er tried to build a bow he could draw and shoot; but to no avail. He also fired the first 560 NFAA Animal round @ the 1967 Nationals in Jackson, MS. He was somewhat of a mentor of mine in early '66 when I was in HS at Dyer, IN. I used to baby sit for him and Carol once in a while with their 3 daughters.
What state did yo start shooting in, and at what age were you?
). 
The longer the limbs the more forgiving to shoot a bow is generally. I am no way expert and can not hunt over here but my recurve is about 45# and I use wooden and carbon shafts with my own broadheads, whipped and glued on blades for the wooden shafts and machined/welded broadheads on the carbons with single bevel cutting edges, work ok.
)was trying to tell me that I should buy .45 230gr FMJ ammo instead of the 200 JHP +P ammo I went there to purchase. (now mind you, this was fo self protection/ home defense)?????
