Case Hardening

getitdone1 · Post by **getitdone1** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:04 am

Just looking at a picture of an Uberti 1873 SRC. It's a looker! Still can't understand why they didn't go with original bbl length of 20" rather than 19".

Wondering why they case hardened lots of the old guns? I know many here will disagree but I don't like the looks. Case hardening would not have made a stronger gun since it's very shallow--brittle too.

Did they give choice of case hardened receiver or blued on the old, early 1873's or were they all case hardened?

I'd want to buy a case hardened replica if that's more historically correct.

Don McCullough

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:18 am

In the old days, carbon steel was not yet perfected so the only way to keep contact areas, such as triggers, sears, hammers in good shape was by case hardening them. So...it was not made to make a gun stronger, but to make a gun wear better. If you file off a hammer notch on an old gun to get a better trigger pull, it might last for a hundred rounds as you have reached into the soft steel.

'73's were standard in blue and color case hardening as an option. The overwhelming majority of '73's were blued.

If you want a historically correct gun, you have to get Doug Turnbull or someone else to redo the receiver in order to get the proper colors.

These colors on this Trapdoor are the way they were when it left the factory.

Grizzly Adams · Post by **Grizzly Adams** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:20 am

Bright blue was the standard finish applied by Winchester on the 1873. CCH was a special order option back in the day.

Uberti almost always finishes their 73 rifles with CCH receivers. The finish on the Uberti SRC is usually bright blue, but can be had with CCH and charcoal blue on barrel and lever.

As to why, I think the CCH is just more desired by today's buyer.

PPpastordon · Post by **PPpastordon** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:04 pm

I cannot tell you WHY case hardening was used. However, from what I have read about case hardening over the past 47-48 (or more) years, it certainly does make a gun stronger.
Though not color case hardening, I have also read that it was the case hardening (along with design) that allowed the use of the high pressure smokeless powders loadings in the Mauser rifles. They certainly are case hardened.
Grace and Peace.

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:41 pm

I think Uberti uses a chemical that produces an imitation CCH. The original bone and charcoal CCH results in a very hard surface that is difficult to scratch or wear. I wrecked a section on my file trying to file down a CCH part.

kimwcook · Post by **kimwcook** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 8:43 pm

The Uberti SAA I had a number of years ago looked really nice with the cyanide CCH finish rubbed off. Made it look 100 years old.

JimT · Post by **JimT** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:09 pm

As to making steel tougher or stronger, you can do simple case hardening in your fireplace.

I took a 16 penny nail, wrapped it in leather, wrapped tinfoil around that and put it in an old tin band-aid can (like they used back in the day)

Put it in the fire for an hour or so then got it out, unwrapped it carefully with a couple pair of pliers and dropped it in oil.

It did not color it, but the carbon from the leather went into the steel a few thousandths. A file would skate on it. You will not bend that nail as easily as one that is not case hardened.

Post by **Chuck 100 yd** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:16 pm

You can blue a case colored part. The case does not have to be completely removed,just polish the color away to get an even finish in the finished bluing.

marlinman93 · Post by **marlinman93** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:23 pm

The original reason for color casehardening was more asthetc, then function. I personally love case colored frames, and find them more elegant looking. I think most people do, and did back then.
At least if they're done in the old bone charcoal method.

getitdone1 · Post by **getitdone1** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:24 pm

Years ago I did fool-around with some case hardening compound in a can. "Casenit?" Was that the name of it? Don't recall but maybe I wanted to harden the sear-trigger contact points after filing or stoning.

I know it wasn't hard to use. Don't recall seeing it in Brownell's catalog but don't look close for things like that anymore.

Don McCullough

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:30 pm

JimT wrote:As to making steel tougher or stronger, you can do simple case hardening in your fireplace.

I took a 16 penny nail, wrapped it in leather, wrapped tinfoil around that and put it in an old tin band-aid can (like they used back in the day)

Put it in the fire for an hour or so then got it out, unwrapped it carefully with a couple pair of pliers and dropped it in oil.

It did not color it, but the carbon from the leather went into the steel a few thousandths. A file would skate on it. You will not bend that nail as easily as one that is not case hardened.

Jim, Thanx! I swear, I learn something new everyday. There's been times I wanted to case harden something with little to no carbon content. Now I know how to do it.

---------Sixgun

Post by **Chuck 100 yd** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:51 pm

Getitdone1 , Yes Casenet (sp?) can be had from Brownells. Will give the surface hardness but not the colors. It is made to harden small parts,sears,hammers etc.