OT - Mil Surplus ammo

[deerwhacker444]

I posted this on the Mosin Nagant site and I wanted to get you guys opinions as well. I'm almost embarrassed to ask it but since I'm new to the Mil Surp arena I just don't have the answer.

I've been discussing this question with a fellow shooter at work. My question is, will the steel jacketed ammo that has a thin copper electroplate (1980 Bulgarian) erode or do damage to the bore of my M91/30 quicker than new manufacture PSP ammo? Can I shoot any 7.62x54R ammo thru my M91/30 without the fear of ruining the bore?

The friend at work says that the barrel of his SKS is chrome lined strictly for the reason of shooting this type of ammo. I've tried searching but have not found this issue addressed. What say you..?

[Hobie]

I think the corrosive priming is a greater concern for my 1891.

[Hillbilly]

The steel jacket on the COMBLOC ammo is supposed to be pretty soft. It shouldnt hurt the bore. You probably know this..but very hot water and ammonia will kill any corrosive primer residue.

I put my rifle bore down in a bucket full of hot soapy (with some ammonia) water and work a rod and mop up and down.

MN rifles double as the hammer and anvil they build SKS and AK's on... I dont think you could hurt one.

~J

[O.S.O.K.]

The Mosin-Nagant 1891 and 91-30 and all varients such as the M44 and M38, etc. are all designed to shoot the milsurp ammo that you refer to. Will it cause more wear to the bore than rounds with guilding metal jackets? Yes, but you probably won't ever notice. As Hobbie points out, that ammo is primed with corrosive primers - they leave a deposit of salt in the bore as you shoot.

Simply clean the bore with warm water when done shooting prior to your regular cleaning - this disolves the salt easily. Just use a couple of wet patches and then follow with a dry patches until they come out dry and then clean with your Hoppes, etc.

I do suggest avoiding the Albanian milsurp ammo - it is junk.

You're Bulgarian is good stuff, as is Yugo, Russian, Romanian, etc.

And the chrome lined bores on the "newer" military rifles were designed to fight corrosion more than anything else - just FYI.

[JReed]

Nope nothing to fear. Becareful though when firing that stuff in dry brushy areas as the steel jacket can spark when it hits things like rocks and can start brush fires.

[cjm135]

I clean my M44 bore with "Sweet's 7.62 Solvent" after using corrosive ammo. It will clean the bore and your nose at the same time. It is a strong ammonia solution designed for corrosive ammo cleaning.

[Old Time Hunter]

The steel cased bullets help smooth out the chisel marks left in the bore after using a sledge hammer and chisel to put in the ruskie rifling on the MN's. Heck if you shoot enough of 'em you might even end up with a bore the same diameter front to rear

[engravertom]

I hope you find your 91/30 to be a nice shooter. I have a few that are.

Nice M91 Hobie!

It looks like what they call a "Peter the Great" made at the Tula arsenal, if I am remembering right. I have one from 1916 with the "Eagle" scrubbed. I hope to put it back on there soon. BTW, if it is a Finn capture or purchase, there will be an "SA" stamp on the barrel shank somewhere, in a box. Sometimes you see a "D" stamp on there also.

Take care,

Tom

[Noah Zark]

The answer is "fuggedaboudit."

The very low carbon steel used for deep draw forming of bullet jackets must be "dead soft" in order to make it through the process. Usually there are annealing steps throughout the forming process to draw back the hardness developed during cold working. If the partially-formed jackets aren't annealed, the jackets would crack and split before they are completed.

Because of the difference in the soft steel jacket material and the much harder barrel steel, damage to a barrel is insignificant in your lifetime. You can't afford the time or $$$ for the amount of ammo it would take to shoot out the barrel -- 10,000 to 30,000 rounds.

Noah