Learn Me Something About My New To Me 1886

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:05 am

The Japchester ELR, tang safety, no half cock: Do I need to engage the safety with a round in the chamber? I'm used to the half cock position.

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 1:26 pm

Bump

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 1:32 pm

I would think so, especially if you DON'T want it to go off. Then again, I tend to distrust safeties. They have been known to fail.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 1:36 pm

BlaineG,

I don't think so. If it does not have the half cock, it will have the rebounding hammer action. They are designed so you must pull the trigger to allow the hammer to go all the way forward.

With the gun empty, lower the hammer to the rest position and push it forward without pulling the trigger. You shouldn't be able to push it all the way forward.

Joe

Boge Quinn · Post by **Boge Quinn** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:14 pm

I have one of those, and to me the best way to use the safety is to IGNORE it.

crs · Post by **crs** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:17 pm

+1 for what Boge said.

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:57 pm

I had one of those and it was a superb rifle. Re. the rebounding hammer. Treat it like half-cock. I never used the safety .... I never used it. With the rebounding hammer not resting on the firing pin, it's just like half cock. With the old Winchsters, half cock is my safety and it still is with the new rebounding hammers I've had.

Lastmohecken · Post by **Lastmohecken** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:14 pm

I used to have one just like yours. It was an accurate gun. Like others have said just leave the safety on fire, and treat the rebounding hammer position like a half cock.

Now the bad news, That rebounding hammer system in the 1886 Extra Lightweight, has been know to misfire. I did not experience this at first, but after a few boxes of shells, I started getting misfires, as others have mentioned on this and other forums. The rebounding hammer spring is the problem.

I didn't know for sure at the time, what the problems was, and ended up trading the gun off, because I can't stand a gun that isn't 100% reliable. I suspected it has something to do with the rebounding hammer, but it wasn't comfirmed until I started reading posts on this forum.

So you may have to deal with this problem, someday. Maybe someone else on here can direct you to or reproduce the post dealing with fixing the problem.

Boge Quinn · Post by **Boge Quinn** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:52 pm

I've never had a misfire in my Extra-Light.

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 4:00 pm

Thanks! I just wasn't sure about this one.......I don't use the CBS on my Marlins, but I didn't want to carry around the rifle with a firing pin on the primer

1886 · Post by **1886** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 4:03 pm

What everyone else said regarding the rebounding hammer as the half cock. I leave the safety off and I have not had misfire issues. I use large pistol primers exclusively in my leverguns however. Best of luck with your new friend. 1886.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 4:07 pm

The inertia firing pin is a safety feature also.

Pete44ru · Post by **Pete44ru** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:03 pm

Here's the tutorial (w/pics) on the rebounding hammer misfire fix:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=12077

Mike D. · Post by **Mike D.** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:29 pm

I took the more costly way to rid my gun of the rebounding hammer and tang safety. I replaced the hammer, trigger and trigger spring with Browning parts and had the tang safety slot welded in. The tang was then remarked as an early 20th Century '86 would be.

Terry Murbach · Post by **Terry Murbach** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:34 pm

OKAY...YOU WANT TO KNOW SOMETHING NEW ABOUT YORE NEW 1886 LEVERACTION SHELLSHUCKER HUH. WELL HERE YOU GO...
IT WAS DESIGNED BY JOHN MOSES YAMAMOTO WHO SOLD THE DESIGN TO THE MIRAKU COMPANY, A LEVERAGED COMPANY OWNED OUTRIGHT BY THE J.A.PAN COMPANY.
THERE, HOW 'BOUT THAT STUFF HUH ??!!! NOT EVERY DAY YOU GET THE STRAIGHT UNVARNISHED TRUTH LIKE THAT.
IT WAS MY PLEASURE.
DISMISSED.

1886 · Post by **1886** » Sat Dec 22, 2007 7:57 pm

Thanks much for posting this info. One question, what would one use to cut the hammer strut and then polish the cut portion? I assume a hack saw and file but wanted to pose the question anyway. Also is there any play in the hammer once this has been accomplished? I ask this because when the hammer is fully forward the rebounding feature acts as a sort of halfcock. Thanks. 1886.

JerryB · Post by **JerryB** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 8:38 pm

jd45reckon you ain't heered no backwoods folk talk, it tain't queens inglish but we shore do git the point acrost.

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:56 pm

Terry Murbach wrote:OKAY...YOU WANT TO KNOW SOMETHING NEW ABOUT YORE NEW 1886 LEVERACTION SHELLSHUCKER HUH. WELL HERE YOU GO...
IT WAS DESIGNED BY JOHN MOSES YAMAMOTO WHO SOLD THE DESIGN TO THE MIRAKU COMPANY, A LEVERAGED COMPANY OWNED OUTRIGHT BY THE J.A.PAN COMPANY.
THERE, HOW 'BOUT THAT STUFF HUH ??!!! NOT EVERY DAY YOU GET THE STRAIGHT UNVARNISHED TRUTH LIKE THAT.
IT WAS MY PLEASURE.
DISMISSED.

I feel all larned up, now.....

Leverluver · Post by **Leverluver** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 10:10 pm

Don't pay those city guys no nevermind

Crazy Horse · Post by **Crazy Horse** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 10:41 pm

MikeD, I love the way your tang looks after the the work. I bet all that set you back $500 or so!!!!

Mike D. · Post by **Mike D.** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 3:11 pm

Crazy Horse wrote:MikeD, I love the way your tang looks after the the work. I bet all that set you back $500 or so!!!!

Not quite. All of the work set me back somewhat less than that. The Browning parts were nearly as expensive as the smith work.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 5:55 pm

1886 wrote:Thanks much for posting this info. One question, what would one use to cut the hammer strut and then polish the cut portion? I assume a hack saw and file but wanted to pose the question anyway. Also is there any play in the hammer once this has been accomplished? I ask this because when the hammer is fully forward the rebounding feature acts as a sort of halfcock. Thanks. 1886.

I used a dremel. I cut the sear and half cock notch to engage properly and super-glued a shim to the hammer to reduce trigger pull weight. The shim is still there after a hundred heavy loads.

steveb · Post by **steveb** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:21 pm

Blain, congrats on your new 86. I'm sure you will enjoy it.

kimwcook · Post by **kimwcook** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:23 pm

I'm waiting for danthegunman to set a price for the conversion so I can start saving my coins. Mike Hunter did some good work on MikeD's '86, just the way I'd like mine fixed.