What kind of finish will I get?

[k8bor]

I just finished the handwork, (cutting, grinding, sanding etc.) on a project Marlin 336. I've changed it from a pistol grip configuration to a straight grip, and the conversion went well. I'm down to the finish work now.

The stock is all prepped for re-finishing and is looking really good. I was giving all the metal parts the once over on the bench and decided I didn't like the way they looked anymore. The rifle is about ten years old and has seen quite a bit of use, so the metal is less than perfect pretty much everywhere.

So now I've decided to really take my time and re-blue the whole rifle. I'm thinking that I will refinish the entire rifle except for the top of the receiver (leave that the dull finish). I'd like something a little flashier than the stock finish and was wondering if a final sand with 600 grit paper would give me some gloss.

Anyone got pics of similar projects showing a couple different finishes from different grits of medium?

Any advice would be helpful............thanks.

[marlinman93]

The finer the grit, the harder it will be to get a true blue/black finish, if you plan to cold blue it. Now if you're polishing it out to have it hot blued by someone, then the 600 will give you a lustrous finish!
I usually use Brownells Oxpho Blue when cold bluing, or I rust blue. I generally never go over 320, and usually find that 240 works very well. I've tried everything from 240 to 900 grit, and didn't get good results at 400 or finer with rust blue or cold blue. I don't have the facilities to hot blue, so I send that type of work out, and I generally go with 400-600 grit for hot bluing parts.

[k8bor]

Thanks Marlinman, I appreciate it.

[jd45]

'Scuse me for buttin in here, but I have a question for you, Marlinman. I'm also thinking of bluing parts on my 336RC & have Oxpho Blue available to me at a Cabela's here in the western Chicago suburbs. Do you use that new formulation that's like a jelly, so it doesn't run off like the liquid? The liquid is all I have here.....I'd need to send away for the new recipe. If so, how does it work compared to the liquid version?? Thanx, jd45

[Sixgun]

K8Bor,
This is an 1892 in 32-20 I recently did. I finished up with 320 and went over it very lightly with the buffing wheel, using red grit. (whatever grit that is) At the very most, all you will need is 400 I did a rust blue on it.-------------------------Sixgun
Before
,

After,

[HATCHETTJACK]

darn sixgun, that is just an excellent job just remarkable.. you sir have a gift

[k8bor]

Thanks a lot guys, I'll put some pics up when I get it done.

[marlinman93]

'Scuse me for buttin in here, but I have a question for you, Marlinman. I'm also thinking of bluing parts on my 336RC & have Oxpho Blue available to me at a Cabela's here in the western Chicago suburbs. Do you use that new formulation that's like a jelly, so it doesn't run off like the liquid? The liquid is all I have here.....I'd need to send away for the new recipe. If so, how does it work compared to the liquid version?? Thanx, jd45

I never use the gel type of bluing. I use the watery old liquid, and I buy it in the gallon jug. Some people warm their parts to get the process to take quicker, but I find that causes blotching, so I do mine at room temps. Oxpho Blue can give some decent results, that if done correctly will be very close to rust blues. Still need multiple applications to get a good deep color.
I never leave it on long; just a couple minutes, and then I dry, card with steel wool, and repeat until I get the finish I like.

[Mutt]

You might consider Brownells Oxpho-Blue . There are some really good write ups about it . Best cold blue made , is the reviews I have read............................................Mutt

[jd45]

Thanx Marlinman93 & Mutt.........I will go to Cabela's & get some! jd45