Savage 340 Series E

[AmBraCol]

Long story short, a Savage 340 Series E in 223 Remington now nests in the cache, fighting for number one space in the "current project prospects" list. It came to me in pieces, an old farm rifle that was "rode hard and put up wet" that a former prospective owner had taken to bits which were then scattered to the four corners of the bunkhouse before he took off and abandoned the effort. Thankfully most of the bits and bobs were included in the baggie, minus the rear trigger guard wood screw, the "magazine retainer screw, front" - as per the schematic on Numrich's site, and the magazine. The bits and pieces were assembled (minus the above mentioned) and the resulting little rifle is intriguing. Not in the league of a trim levergun, of course, but the price was right and I've always been attracted to basket case projects.

So, if you've made it thus far, I hope someone here might be able to clarify a few things for me. Does anyone know the feasibility of fitting a Savage 110 barrel to the 340? Do any of you have a source for an original magazine? Do any of you know what size/thread of screw is needed for the "magazine retainer screw, front" (number 45 on the Numrich schematic,






I suspect that the current barrel could be trimmed down and recrowned, I definitely want to have the headspace verified prior to firing. I'm not sure on bore dimensions/twist rate, but am considering this as a possible cast bullet rifle. Need to slug it, but we're out of time before we head back south. Anyway, thanks for reading and for any feedback on this rifle model. Another thing that intrigues me is the single bolt holding the action with the forward part being secured by a barrel band far forward of the action. Am wondering if this arrangement would lend itself to fully bedding the barrel to the stock, or what other options there might be for securing it better than its abused current state.

2022-08-17-10.23.37-logo-Savage-340.jpg

[AmBraCol]

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[TomF]

Several magazines on gunbroker.

[Nath]

Nice find Paul. I'm sure you will get it together.
Is the bore good? Could it not be headspaced on a round....minus firing pin!

[ywaltzucanrknrl]

One of the first rifles I ever had was a 340 in 222. They are a solid rifle. You did good, hope you get it back together like you want it.

The 110's have a larger diameter tenon and may be a different pitch. Someone who is decent with a lathe could turn down a 110 barrel, cut the thread, and you could headspace it if you wanted to rent or buy the headspace gauges. I probably have a used 110 223 barrel that I would give you if you are not looking for something special.

The barrel nut does work the same as a 110 although I don't think they are the same diameter, but they might be. A 110 barrel nut wrench might work on a 340. If you know someone with a 110 barrel nut wrench you could check it. If you have a barrel vice and an action wrench that will fit, you can loosen the nut with wood blocks and the vice. The barrel will generally unscrew pretty easily once the nut is loosened.

Yes, bedding it full length of the barrel would probably be the way to go, as they only have the front guard screw.

Mine shot very well with no bedding.

Good project for sure!

[AmBraCol]

Thanks, guys! I'd not thought of Gunbroker as a source. MUCH better prices than fleabay at first glance. I'll have to take a look once we get settled in again.

I was curious about the differences between the 110 and 340 barrels since the 110's seem to be easier to find. Actually, the more I think about it, I'll probably go with cutting the barrel back a few inches and recrowning. The rifling looks decent but the rifle was carried in a plastic rifle carrier on a side by side or similar ranch transportation and methinks the crown's messed up. The former owner told me that it didn't shoot well at all and I suspect that's the reason. Cutting way back would make it trimmer and handier yet as well as getting back to decent rifling (I hope). I think cutting, crowning and ensuring proper headspace is probably the best place to start.

I've not had a chance to do much with that Burris scope, other than turn the ocular lens to bring the crosshairs up reasonably clear. It may be that the rough handling has lead to a busted up scope, which would also account for less than stellar "accuracy". I kind of like the looks of that Burris, hope it cleans up OK. Haven't a clue where to source new turret caps for it though. Someone told me they have a lifetime warranty, any ideas on that?

[TraderVic]

Savage 340's are decent rifles, my only experience is with a 30-30, which shot very well. The bolt action has only one locking lug, so it's not especially strong.

[Rockrat]

I have one in 223. It will shoot under an inch with Hornady 62gr sp ammo

[AmBraCol]

Savage 340's are decent rifles, my only experience is with a 30-30, which shot very well. The bolt action has only one locking lug, so it's not especially strong.

Which is one reason I'm tempted to make a cast bullet shooter out of it. I know the 30-30 had a good rep with some cast bullet shooters, it'll be interesting to (eventually) see what it can do in 223 Rem.

[Old Savage]

There is an advantage to being able to see things for what they are.

[Nath]

If you're gonna shoot cast at cast velocities how about reversed fmj's at cast velocity?

If you can get them cheap, saves on casting! And they do a number on critters loaded thus.

[Bill in Oregon]

Paul, my copy of DeHaas on Bolt Action Rifles is still packed, but ˆ would bet old Frank could tell you if the barrel shank threads on the 340 and the 110 are the same. Might go to the Savage forum on 24hourcampfire.com.

[harry]

Copied from another site:
The threads on my savage 340 .223 rem, measure .864" x 18tpi. - I assume that is undersized for a 7/8" shank. Be aware that those are the threads on the barrel. Enough of a difference that I wouldn't want .025" play if the receiver is .875 and the barrel is .850 like the NRA guide says.

[GunnyMack]

Paul,
I just pulled the front screw from my Savage 342
( probably the same as the 340). By the Brownells ' screw checker ' its a 1/4 - 32. Definitely an oddball! It has an OAL of 1.195" and the threaded portion is approximately
.450" of thread.
This was given to me , basket case but complete, a 22 hornet. Its a good shooter even with the front barrel band !
Hope you know someone with a lathe to make the screw.

[harry]

Just in case you’re short on lathe time:
https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/thread-size~1-4-32/

[horsesoldier03]

Here are some cheap parts to include the barrel.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/942215478

[AmBraCol]

Paul,
I just pulled the front screw from my Savage 342
( probably the same as the 340). By the Brownells ' screw checker ' its a 1/4 - 32. Definitely an oddball! It has an OAL of 1.195" and the threaded portion is approximately
.450" of thread.
This was given to me , basket case but complete, a 22 hornet. Its a good shooter even with the front barrel band !
Hope you know someone with a lathe to make the screw.

Thanks! I GREATLY appreciate that bit of info. At least now I know what to look for. That Hornet must be a dandy of a rifle. I think this one will be too, once I get it sorted.

[AmBraCol]

Just in case you’re short on lathe time:
https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/thread-size~1-4-32/

Thanks, Harry!

[AmBraCol]

Here are some cheap parts to include the barrel.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/942215478

Thanks! That would have made it possible to convert to 30-30, but it sure climbed out of my reach quickly!

[GunnyMack]

Happy to help!! Yes its a good shooter Paul, not as accurate as my #1 in 218 Bee but good enough. It saw a tough life, blue is about gone and the stock is almost black. Maybe someday I'll restock it.

[AmBraCol]

Paul,
I just pulled the front screw from my Savage 342
( probably the same as the 340). By the Brownells ' screw checker ' its a 1/4 - 32. Definitely an oddball! It has an OAL of 1.195" and the threaded portion is approximately
.450" of thread.
This was given to me , basket case but complete, a 22 hornet. Its a good shooter even with the front barrel band !
Hope you know someone with a lathe to make the screw.

Just want to say "Thanks!" again, but I believe you pulled the front trigger guard screw to measure. If you look at the schematic on the Numrich Gunparts site, the description you give seems to fit part number 56. The one I'm missing is part number 45 which holds the front magazine guide - part 46 - to the receiver. It's only about 1/4" or so long, I believe. I also think it's a smaller diameter than the number 56 - but that's going on a faulty memory and no photographic evidence to back it up. I do appreciate your effort in checking that screw for me, it's a bit rough but I think it will serve with a bit of careful dressing and refinishing. That number 45, on the other hand, is the one that's missing in action. It bolts the front magazine guide to the action, right behind the recoil lug.

[GunnyMack]

Oops, I misunderstood your post. You want this screw.

16612792514437641343090684537554.jpg

It's a 10-32,approximately. 200" of thread, head diameter is .280". OAL is .330"

[GunnyMack]

Now ill have to go check ZERO after taking it out of the wood( yeah I get to go shoot!)

[AmBraCol]

Oops, I misunderstood your post. You want this screw.16612792514437641343090684537554.jpg

It's a 10-32,approximately. 200" of thread, head diameter is .280". OAL is .330"

Yeah!!! Yes indeed - that be the one. Thank you! A 10-32 shouldn't be too hard to source.

[AmBraCol]

Now ill have to go check ZERO after taking it out of the wood( yeah I get to go shoot!)

Looking at the photo - it looks like you need a new front magazine guide. They are available from Numrich, just click this link. And I REALLY appreciate you taking the time and effort to get that bit of info for me.

[GunnyMack]

Thanks for the link! Might explain why inserting the mag is difficult. Honestly I haven't spent much effort on this rifle.

[AJMD429]

If you're gonna shoot cast at cast velocities how about reversed fmj's at cast velocity?

If you can get them cheap, saves on casting! And they do a number on critters loaded thus.

Another thought is that if you want to shoot cast bullets at low velocity you might consider a faster rifling twist so you can shoot heavy for caliber bullets, perhaps even subsonically. We barreling is a great opportunity to get a barrel with a threaded muzzle; even if you decide not to suppress it you can just put a blank thread protector or other crown protecting attachment.

[AmBraCol]

If you're gonna shoot cast at cast velocities how about reversed fmj's at cast velocity?

If you can get them cheap, saves on casting! And they do a number on critters loaded thus.

Another thought is that if you want to shoot cast bullets at low velocity you might consider a faster rifling twist so you can shoot heavy for caliber bullets, perhaps even subsonically. We barreling is a great opportunity to get a barrel with a threaded muzzle; even if you decide not to suppress it you can just put a blank thread protector or other crown protecting attachment.

I've got an old FT Ideal mold that I picked up at a Goodwill store years ago that I think should make a dandy cast bullet for this rifle. My plan is to not sink a lot of $$$ into the project but mostly go with what we've got and see where it leads. I'm thinking that a judicious barrel chop and recrown will be the first order o the day, followed by confirming proper headspace. Once that's done we'll see what she can do. A nice, light, short carbine is my goal. It'd be especially fun to take it back where it came from and smack a bunch of his ground squirrels, using cast projectiles out of it.

In the meantime, it's back to work here between the Canal and the Equator, playing with airguns and cogitating on possible projects up north.