Winchester 1894 modified finger lever pin stop screw

[JDGus19]

So I started disassembling and cleaning my very early Winchester 1894, knowing that there have been some modifications to it by my great grandfather.

What I just found out was that he or my grandfather drilled a recess in the receiver screw pocket where the finger level pin stop screw goes, and then either retapped it or drove a slightly larger size screw into the threads. The thread pattern matches the carrier screw which is 10-32, and the carrier screw threads in (but way too long). Well, the screw that was in there is almost rounded out completely and was a pain to get out.

Since the correct screw made for the gun drops almost all the way through without catching a thread, do you think it would be okay if I took a new carrier screw and shortened it to the correct length so it almost touches the bolt, and use that? Or is there some reason that might cause some major malfunctions?

Thanks in advance!

[Griff]

Somethin's fishy..., or I'm misunderstanding something... the pre '64 mdl 94s used two carrier screws, one from either side. Not sure if, one of those would be long enough to work as a lever pin stop. But, a post '64 carrier screw cut to length might work, just the screw head will be way smaller than the counter sunk area for the stock one.

[JDGus19]

Somethin's fishy..., or I'm misunderstanding something... the pre '64 mdl 94s used two carrier screws, one from either side. Not sure if, one of those would be long enough to work as a lever pin stop. But, a post '64 carrier screw cut to length might work, just the screw head will be way smaller than the counter sunk area for the stock one.

It could have been a post 64 screw. I just know the threads are the same because I took that screw and put it in the hole and it kind of worked. No resistance when putting it in but it did grab. I'm just trying to figure out what I should do, and I read a few places online where people had receiver screw holes welded, then filed, then redrilled. Not sure if that's an option on a Winchester 94 receiver or if I should just put a different screw in that works with it in its current state.

[Griff]

If it's a post '64 screw, I'm not 100% certain it will work. There's a small gap between the bottom of the head of that screw and threads, so cutting it to length might be cutting into what threads there are. But, it may still be enough engagement to work... as that's it's only function. I wonder if at one time it might not have been retapped to mount a scope?

Yes, a Winchester receiver can certainly be welded and a hole re-tapped. You just need the "right", knowledgeable welder with the correct equipment and skills... (TIG), in case you're wondering. Skills I don't possess... I can gas, stick and MIG weld, nothing pretty without a grinder to clean things up, but they do tend to stick together after... you want someone better'n that!

[JDGus19]

If it's a post '64 screw, I'm not 100% certain it will work. There's a small gap between the bottom of the head of that screw and threads, so cutting it to length might be cutting into what threads there are. But, it may still be enough engagement to work... as that's it's only function. I wonder if at one time it might not have been retapped to mount a scope?

Yes, a Winchester receiver can certainly be welded and a hole re-tapped. You just need the "right", knowledgeable welder with the correct equipment and skills... (TIG), in case you're wondering. Skills I don't possess... I can gas, stick and MIG weld, nothing pretty without a grinder to clean things up, but they do tend to stick together after... you want someone better'n that!

Okay, that is great information. The gunsmith here locally does a lot of welding and I believe even builds custom bolt action rifles. The link below is a picture of the screw that was in there compared to the screw that should be in there.

https://imgur.com/a/fOvCw6K

[Pat C]

Welding would be a last resort,as it will stand out as repaired. The finger lever stop pin screw hole is actually bigger thread than carrier .

Finger lever stop pin screw is 11-36 (.198")diameter
Carrier screw is 3/16-36 (.187")

It looks like he used a mainspring strain screw which is way to small at 9-32

Brownells used to sell over size screws for tightening up loose or boogered threads but finding one for this may be tricky.

So the proper screw falls in no engagement?
Did he over size the counterbore for screw head?
It should be around .215" diameter .

Left to right
Strain screw , finger lever stop pin screw, carrier screw

[JDGus19]

Welding would be a last resort,as it will stand out as repaired. The finger lever stop pin screw hole is actually bigger thread than carrier .

Finger lever stop pin screw is 11-36 (.198")diameter
Carrier screw is 3/16-36 (.187")

It looks like he used a mainspring strain screw which is way to small at 9-32

Brownells used to sell over size screws for tightening up loose or boogered threads but finding one for this may be tricky.

So the proper screw falls in no engagement?
Did he over size the counterbore for screw head?
It should be around .215" diameter .

Left to right
Strain screw , finger lever stop pin screw, carrier screw

The proper screw doesn't engage at all. It drops right in and when I twist it with the screwdriver I can feel just a tad bit of catching but it rotates freely past that point quite quickly. I think the other issue is that the correct screw sticks out inside the receiver and it looks like he or his father drilled the recess slightly deeper to accommodate their homemade screw.

I'm not exactly sure what he did. But when I put that screw back in it looks like it lines up flush with the wall inside the receiver, and an area of the threads were flattened so the bolt can travel freely down that channel.

[Pat C]

If you weld it then you'll have to have the 11-36 tap made as it does not exist anymore .
Is your screw a reproduction ?
Measure its thread o.d, make sure its correct .Should be around .197"

If the receiver is brown or grey patina weld may be best .
Shouldnt be hard to blend in with rust brown or logo blue.
If its a nice blue I believe I would have a slightly oversize tap made and custom screw that resembles original type.

Need to get some measurements of what's there , if you have a dial caliper to measure hole minor now.
Probably could get a 12 -36 tap from McMaster carr and make a screw same design as original

Have any pictures of receiver?
If you need the original spec for the receiver hole I can make a drawing.

[JDGus19]

If you weld it then you'll have to have the 11-36 tap made as it does not exist anymore .
Is your screw a reproduction ?
Measure its thread o.d, make sure its correct .Should be around .197"

If the receiver is brown or grey patina weld may be best .
Shouldnt be hard to blend in with rust brown or logo blue.
If its a nice blue I believe I would have a slightly oversize tap made and custom screw that resembles original type.

Need to get some measurements of what's there , if you have a dial caliper to measure hole minor now.
Probably could get a 12 -36 tap from McMaster carr and make a screw same design as original

Have any pictures of receiver?
If you need the original spec for the receiver hole I can make a drawing.

Okay that work would be out of my scope but I know that if it's a possible option, the local gunsmith could do it for me. Here is a picture of the receiver before I took it apart. When I get back from camp Monday, I will take a picture of it as it is now disassembled.

https://imgur.com/a/DPp9lsq

[Pat C]

Looks like mostly grey patina ,so weld fill and rework to original would be an option .But like I said if you use an original stop screw it is a non standard 11 -36 thread.
You would still have to have it made, your gunsmith could make it from tool steel and harden/temper . $$$$

Me if you just want close to original type it would probably easier to just enlarge to 12 - 36 thread and enlarge counterbore .Then your gunsmith can make the new screw exactly like original only slightly larger diameter .

End result ,no welding. Look will be same as original,function will be original,

[Griff]

Wisner's has the finger lever pin stop screw still listed, $4.00.

[Pat C]

I think he already has it ,but it drops in with no engagement. It was enlarged.

[JDGus19]

I think he already has it ,but it drops in with no engagement. It was enlarged.

Yes that's correct.

[Pat C]

Here is a sketch of the original hole for stop screw.
If you were to weld it. The screws are easy to find but the tap would have to be special made as its obsolete.

The correct size is 11 - 36 (.203) - 36

Depending what will clean up to make threads , the 12 -36 option would work and no welding .Plus 12-36 taps are easy to find at McMaster Carr.

You can make the screw exactly as original but larger thread and maybe head but will look the same.

Here is the sketch if you plan on returning to original.

[JDGus19]

Here is a sketch of the original hole for stop screw.
If you were to weld it. The screws are easy to find but the tap would have to be special made as its obsolete.

The correct size is 11 - 36 (.203) - 36

Depending what will clean up to make threads , the 12 -36 option would work and no welding .Plus 12-36 taps are easy to find at McMaster Carr.

You can make the screw exactly as original but larger thread and maybe head but will look the same.

Here is the sketch if you plan on returning to original.

My goodness, this is amazing! Thank you very much. I will share this with my gunsmith and see what he can do.