So I want to make a leather scabbard for my Puma 92 but I can't quite seem to find any plans for making one. How does one go about making such an item? I have never really worked with leather before but I do have an idea of how I could do it.
Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys!
Making a leather scabbard
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pullnshoot25
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:15 am
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pullnshoot25
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:15 am
If you have a clear hide, and like the suede look, then sew it up rough side out - if not, don't.
As alluded to above - Get a large roll of brown wrapping paper, butcher's wrap, or simply tape together a bunch of split-open large paper grocery bags.
End up with a sheet of heavy paper a few inches longer than the rifle and about 2 1/2 times as wide as when the rifle's lying on a table/benchtop.
Draw a straight line, splitting the paper/pattern in half, and fold it on the line.
Insert the rifle, into the folded paper, with the sights along the inside of the crease and the muzzle near one end of the paper.
Loosely tape or staple each end (temporarily), and cut off the excess paper, in either the outline of the scabbard you desire or parallel to the bottom lines of the rifle. Either way, be sure to leave a very generous margain between to cut edge and the rifle.
Staple/tape the final edges - execpt for the mouth of the scabbard.
Pretty soon, you'll have a paper scabbard.
Once you have a design that suits, remove the tape/staples, spread the paper onto the hide and trace it out.
Cut or chew along the dotted lines.
Fold the cut leather, just like the paper was, holding it with numerous clothespins.
Any leather stamping, lettering, carving, or other decoration should be done on slightly dampened leather while it's laid flat, before sewing into shape. Ditto any attaching straps/thongs/etc.
Determine how close together the stitches will be, and lay out the "dots" for punching or drilling stitching holes along the open edge, with a pencil or sharpie.
Get a heavy, waxed thread, and two thick, leather sewing needles from a hobby shop, run off about 6' of thread, & thread a needle at each end of the thread with about 6" of pull-through.
Start the thread in the end hole, and lace the thread (sew) tightly in both directions at once, using both needles - proceeding along the stitch line until the end.
I use shorter, tied-off runs of stitching, so that if the thread breaks or wears in the future, only a small portion of the holster/scabbard/sheath will come apart. YMMV.
Many install re-inforcing rivets at each end of the stitchline. YMMV.
After it's all done, insert the rifle into plastic wrap, dampen the sheath, insert the wrapped rifle and knead/bone the leather to a form-fit to that particular rifle. Don't do that, if the sheath will be for several guns.
Take many pics.
As alluded to above - Get a large roll of brown wrapping paper, butcher's wrap, or simply tape together a bunch of split-open large paper grocery bags.
End up with a sheet of heavy paper a few inches longer than the rifle and about 2 1/2 times as wide as when the rifle's lying on a table/benchtop.
Draw a straight line, splitting the paper/pattern in half, and fold it on the line.
Insert the rifle, into the folded paper, with the sights along the inside of the crease and the muzzle near one end of the paper.
Loosely tape or staple each end (temporarily), and cut off the excess paper, in either the outline of the scabbard you desire or parallel to the bottom lines of the rifle. Either way, be sure to leave a very generous margain between to cut edge and the rifle.
Staple/tape the final edges - execpt for the mouth of the scabbard.
Pretty soon, you'll have a paper scabbard.
Once you have a design that suits, remove the tape/staples, spread the paper onto the hide and trace it out.
Cut or chew along the dotted lines.
Fold the cut leather, just like the paper was, holding it with numerous clothespins.
Any leather stamping, lettering, carving, or other decoration should be done on slightly dampened leather while it's laid flat, before sewing into shape. Ditto any attaching straps/thongs/etc.
Determine how close together the stitches will be, and lay out the "dots" for punching or drilling stitching holes along the open edge, with a pencil or sharpie.
Get a heavy, waxed thread, and two thick, leather sewing needles from a hobby shop, run off about 6' of thread, & thread a needle at each end of the thread with about 6" of pull-through.
Start the thread in the end hole, and lace the thread (sew) tightly in both directions at once, using both needles - proceeding along the stitch line until the end.
I use shorter, tied-off runs of stitching, so that if the thread breaks or wears in the future, only a small portion of the holster/scabbard/sheath will come apart. YMMV.
Many install re-inforcing rivets at each end of the stitchline. YMMV.
After it's all done, insert the rifle into plastic wrap, dampen the sheath, insert the wrapped rifle and knead/bone the leather to a form-fit to that particular rifle. Don't do that, if the sheath will be for several guns.
Take many pics.
Last edited by Pete44ru on Thu May 08, 2008 3:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Hagler
- Senior Levergunner
- Posts: 1521
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:52 am
- Location: Leverland, U.S.A.
- Contact:
You want Vegetable Tanned 13-to-15 ounce Saddle Skirting for your scabbard. The weight, in ounces, corresponds to its thickness in 64ths of an inch: 13oz. = 13/64" thick. Saddle skirting is some tough leather. You could use something heavier, but that may be a special-order weight. Tandy carries the 13-15oz. saddle skirting, but you need to buy a big piece of it, to get the small amount that you need. Here is the Tandy page of saddle skirting:pullnshoot25 wrote:That looks rad! Ok, here is another question... what type of leather does one use? Rough out? Latigo? So many choices and so little information. Also, how hard is it to die the scabbard black?
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/prod ... p?dept=290
This one will do nicely:
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/prod ... er=9047-02
Dyeing is not too hard to do. Black is a good choice, as it is easier to get uniformity with it. Fiebing's alcohol dye is the one to get. About one small bottle will do the entire outside of the scabbard. You can cover the dried dye with a clear acrylic coating like Super Sheen, or rub in some Neatsfoot oil, or some silicone water repellant, like Academy SportingGoods sells. Use an old rag to buff up the dried dye, before you apply finish to it.
If you are going to handstitch the scabbard, then you will need a supply of blunt-tipped needles, heavy waxed thread, and some pliers. I have not taken to the two-needle method. I sew in one direction, with one needle, then come back to fill in the gaps. Many leatherworkers think I am stupid for doing it this way, but it works. A small hole helps retain the stitching, and pliers help you pull the needle through the holes. The weak spot of the needles is the eye. You may need to throw away a broken needle, then replace it with a new one, as you sew. Hobby Lobby sells a pack of 10 needles for a couple of dollars, and a small card of waxed thread for a couple of dollars, too. Look in their leather section for them. Try not to tie too many knots. Just backstitch, and tuck in your ends, where possible. Pull your stitches tight, too. Also, the thread is murder on your hands. I wear fingerless leather gloves, when I sew leather.
Take your time, and you will get right.
Shawn
"That's right, Billy, I'm good with it. I hit what I shoot at, and I'm fast!"-Lucas McCain, c1882.
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pullnshoot25
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:15 am
OK guys, not to annoy anyone or anything, but I do have a couple of questions.
A) What is the strength of calfskin vs. cowskin? Is the difference in the name and that is it? The reason I ask is because I need to practice my skinning techniques and I live near a dairy that sometimes has calves die (I also am in the process of supplying hearts to my college) and I would like to make some items out of the skin. (Brain tanning, anyone?)
B) Does a scabbard need a lining or is that just a preference? If so, what kind of lining? Pigskin? Wool? How does one attach lining? Do you sew it on first leaving enough room at the edge for sewing the sides?
C) When I feel confident that I can skin one of the bigger cows, how do I do it without a gambrel and without nicking the hell out of the meat? Do I just make the basic incisions and "flesh" it by hand?
Just curious and I apologize if I may be annoying. I am pretty much the only guy in my area and of my age range that does/wants to do stuff like this (besides my awesome girlfriend) so I am sort of alone (Living in San Diego, go figure...)
Thanks guys!
A) What is the strength of calfskin vs. cowskin? Is the difference in the name and that is it? The reason I ask is because I need to practice my skinning techniques and I live near a dairy that sometimes has calves die (I also am in the process of supplying hearts to my college) and I would like to make some items out of the skin. (Brain tanning, anyone?)
B) Does a scabbard need a lining or is that just a preference? If so, what kind of lining? Pigskin? Wool? How does one attach lining? Do you sew it on first leaving enough room at the edge for sewing the sides?
C) When I feel confident that I can skin one of the bigger cows, how do I do it without a gambrel and without nicking the hell out of the meat? Do I just make the basic incisions and "flesh" it by hand?
Just curious and I apologize if I may be annoying. I am pretty much the only guy in my area and of my age range that does/wants to do stuff like this (besides my awesome girlfriend) so I am sort of alone (Living in San Diego, go figure...)
Thanks guys!
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Hagler
- Senior Levergunner
- Posts: 1521
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 12:52 am
- Location: Leverland, U.S.A.
- Contact:
pullnshoot25,
You are not annoying me.
I imagine that calf skin is softer & thinner than cow skin. That's just a guess. Brain tanning may soften the leather, and that may be too soft for the shell of the scabbard. Again, that's a guess.
Lining a scabbard is, mostly, personal preference. One layer of thick leather is good enough for me. There is a perception, real or not, that a lining protects the finish of your gun. Any way that look at it, you will be sliding your rifle into, and out of, that scabbard. That, alone, is somewhat abrasive to your gun's finish.
Skinning a cow is not in my resume. I cannot comment on that.
Other forumites will be able to tell you more.
Shawn
You are not annoying me.
I imagine that calf skin is softer & thinner than cow skin. That's just a guess. Brain tanning may soften the leather, and that may be too soft for the shell of the scabbard. Again, that's a guess.
Lining a scabbard is, mostly, personal preference. One layer of thick leather is good enough for me. There is a perception, real or not, that a lining protects the finish of your gun. Any way that look at it, you will be sliding your rifle into, and out of, that scabbard. That, alone, is somewhat abrasive to your gun's finish.
Skinning a cow is not in my resume. I cannot comment on that.
Other forumites will be able to tell you more.
Shawn
"That's right, Billy, I'm good with it. I hit what I shoot at, and I'm fast!"-Lucas McCain, c1882.
A) What is the strength of calfskin vs. cowskin? Is the difference in the name and that is it? - Calfskin is thinner/softer, generally used for flexible items like gloves/wallets
B) Does a scabbard need a lining or is that just a preference? - Preference If so, what kind of lining? Pigskin? Wool? - Wool will attract/retain moisture - don't use it How does one attach lining? Sew/baste it to the outer shell after any carving/stamping, B4 folding & final stitching
Do you sew it on first leaving enough room at the edge for sewing the sides? - Yes
C) When I feel confident that I can skin one of the bigger cows, how do I do it without a gambrel and without nicking the hell out of the meat? - It can be done on the ground via rolling as you skin, but the operative word is "meat" - keep it clean. Skinning while it's hanging is cleaner, easier, and easiest with a gambrel for access & turning the heavy carcass. "Nicking" is avoided by proceding with care, and without haste.
B) Does a scabbard need a lining or is that just a preference? - Preference If so, what kind of lining? Pigskin? Wool? - Wool will attract/retain moisture - don't use it How does one attach lining? Sew/baste it to the outer shell after any carving/stamping, B4 folding & final stitching
Do you sew it on first leaving enough room at the edge for sewing the sides? - Yes
C) When I feel confident that I can skin one of the bigger cows, how do I do it without a gambrel and without nicking the hell out of the meat? - It can be done on the ground via rolling as you skin, but the operative word is "meat" - keep it clean. Skinning while it's hanging is cleaner, easier, and easiest with a gambrel for access & turning the heavy carcass. "Nicking" is avoided by proceding with care, and without haste.
It depends how old the calf is, but a great deal of the leather available comercially is calfskin. The thickness is a function of where on the calf the leather came from, how it was tanned and if it was split (had a suede layer cut off the back).
If you are going to skin your own, use the shoulders. I imagine the biggest issue with a self-tanned hide will be getting a uniform tan and getting it less than iron-like in suppleness.
If you get it pretty close to the condition of hide like you'd find at Tandy's, no lining will be necessary unless you just want it. I did not line any of the ones I've made.
If you are going to skin your own, use the shoulders. I imagine the biggest issue with a self-tanned hide will be getting a uniform tan and getting it less than iron-like in suppleness.
If you get it pretty close to the condition of hide like you'd find at Tandy's, no lining will be necessary unless you just want it. I did not line any of the ones I've made.