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That's what I've been working on for the last couple of months. Had to change out the nozzles to ones from a 4.3 to get it to run right.draperjojo wrote: ↑Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:21 pm I installed a Howell Fuel injection system on my CJ7. Howell used a GM 4.3L throttle body in the kit, it worked very well.
Spacers? You need spacers to clear those? I figured a 285 would clear. If they rub a little on the lower control arms at full turn, just put a lock washer behind the steering stop bolt. Should be enough.
First while it ain’t a CJ, it’ Still an older Jeep.Mainehunter wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:10 am Nice Rig! My friend’s son finished off last year installing a 4BT Cummins in his. Now he’s attempting to install a 6BT in a CJ5! The seats have been pushed back enough that when I sit in them I can practically hang one of my arms over the tail gate! It's going to be his dedicated trail rig.
Mainehunter
Thank you SO much for this. It will narrow and define my searches. If I find something I'll run it by you.OldWin wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 1:26 pm Hey Grizz,
I may be biased, but I consider the TJ (97-06) to be the best balance of what you are looking for. They were the first Jeep to go to a coil and four link suspension. Small lifts are easy and economical. They are pretty good on the road, and came with arguably the best engine ever put in a Jeep, the 4.0 I6.
With this, they are still pretty simple and easy to work on. They don't have such invasive electronics as the later JK and JL models.
All years are pretty good. There were some changes in transmission offerings, but none are real turds.
If you are going over a 31" tire and locking the rear, stay away from the Dana 35 rear end and look for a 44. This depends on driving style, as I have an old 97 with a 4 cylinder that I ran on 33s with a rear Tru- trac and never had a problem.
If you live in the rust belt, check the frame real good.
I can go on for hours, so if you have any questions, give a holler.![]()
Also you might want to avoid the AMC 20 rear axle. They were installed on a lot of jeeps up to mid 80's. The pumpkin is similar in shape being round like the Dana 35. I do have one on my 80 CJ5 that I'm running 33's BUT I've done a few mods to it so strenght wise it equal to the Dana 44.Grizz wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 4:21 pmThank you SO much for this. It will narrow and define my searches. If I find something I'll run it by you.OldWin wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 1:26 pm Hey Grizz,
I may be biased, but I consider the TJ (97-06) to be the best balance of what you are looking for. They were the first Jeep to go to a coil and four link suspension. Small lifts are easy and economical. They are pretty good on the road, and came with arguably the best engine ever put in a Jeep, the 4.0 I6.
With this, they are still pretty simple and easy to work on. They don't have such invasive electronics as the later JK and JL models.
All years are pretty good. There were some changes in transmission offerings, but none are real turds.
If you are going over a 31" tire and locking the rear, stay away from the Dana 35 rear end and look for a 44. This depends on driving style, as I have an old 97 with a 4 cylinder that I ran on 33s with a rear Tru- trac and never had a problem.
If you live in the rust belt, check the frame real good.
I can go on for hours, so if you have any questions, give a holler.![]()
First question, how do you know if the rear end is Dana 35 or 44? As to the rest, I do most all of my mechanickin, so am looking for the old style easy to work on ride.
I’ve ended up installing the one-piece axles on the AMC 20 just a piece of mind. I’ve seen a couple of times two-piece axles snapping off and it wasn’t pretty! The other thing I did was stick welded the axle tubes to the housing. They have a tendency to twist if enough torque is applied. Supposedly a guy I know cousin has a AMC 20 that he installed a aftermarket full float kit a few years ago. He ended up taking it out and modifying a Dana 70. The last time I’ve talk to them was late last summer and he was toying around selling it. I mentioned to him I might be interested to give me a call when the time comes. It’s already January and I’m thinking he’s keeping it or sold it someone else.OldWin wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 1:36 am The AMC 20 won't be an issue unless getting back into the CJ. They are still stronger than a 35 if you replace the 2 piece shafts.
The problem with the 35 is weak c-clip shafts, a weak carrier, and wafer thin tubes. There is no hope for it.
The front Dana 30 is actually stronger. As long as you don't lock it solid, and drive with common sense, you can run 35s on them.