How would you fix this?

[TedH]

Picked up the 444 today that I bought off Gunbroker. The seller stated there was a cracked in the forend, no big deal, I've repaired cracks before. Well its not going to be that simple. Bubba has already been there, and it looks like he used super glue and kinda got the broken piece close to the right place. I tried to dissolve the glue with acetone, but it's not budging. I don't want to force it and have it break off in a new place. I thought about filling the crack with wood filler and sanding the outer edges that are misaligned smooth. Ideally I would remove the broken corner along the original break and re glue in the right place, eliminating the gap/crack.

Forend.jpeg

[Blaine]

I got nothing except maybe try to find an old forend.. that will match up.....

[Grizz]

could you mix some flour fine sawdust in some epoxy resin and work it into the crack? then contour it when it is green and workable. might get er done. maybe.

[Griff]

I got nothing except maybe try to find an old forend.. that will match up.....

+1. Numrich has 'em.

[Pete44ru]

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I would strip the finish off the entire forend with Formby's Furniture Refinisher (HomeCheapo), and dig the old filler/epoxy out a little after sanding everything flush.

I would remove the buttplate & drill a few small holes there to obtain some sawdust, that's the same as the stock, to mix into some waterproof woodfiller - then apply the filler to the dug out line, stain any light areas to match the rest of the forend, and TruOil it.


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[TedH]

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I would strip the finish off the entire forend with Formby's Furniture Refinisher (HomeCheapo), and dig the old filler/epoxy out a little after sanding everything flush.

I would remove the buttplate & drill a few small holes there to obtain some sawdust, that's the same as the stock, to mix into some waterproof woodfiller - then apply the filler to the dug out line, stain any light areas to match the rest of the forend, and TruOil it.


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This is what I had intended unless someone else came up with a better idea, short of just replacing it. I'll try it and if it doesn't work, I'm still not out anything.

[Blaine]

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I would strip the finish off the entire forend with Formby's Furniture Refinisher (HomeCheapo), and dig the old filler/epoxy out a little after sanding everything flush.

I would remove the buttplate & drill a few small holes there to obtain some sawdust, that's the same as the stock, to mix into some waterproof woodfiller - then apply the filler to the dug out line, stain any light areas to match the rest of the forend, and TruOil it.


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This is what I had intended unless someone else came up with a better idea, short of just replacing it. I'll try it and if it doesn't work, I'm still not out anything.

It prolly has that thick Marlin Wood, so maybe you can shave it down at the same time, using the dust.....

[octagon]

Forends are prone to crack, as they are U shaped and weak. I have repaired many, usually shotguns. My experience with wood repair is instrument related, been doing this work for over 20 years full time. Nitro methane is a much better solvent for cyanoacrilate glues (super glue originally called crazy glue) than acetone, and will dissolve superglue with a little patience, but will also effect many finishes. Check it on an inconspicuous spot on the gun, often under the but plate is a good test spot. If it does not affect the guns finish you can apply it liberally on the repair. I use a saturated Q tip to apply it work it over and over the repair trying to force it in the crack, from both sides, it will work if you are patient, turning the super glue rubbery then breaking the adhesion.

When it comes apart, continue the nitro methane application to both surfaces until both surfaces are clean. When clean, Reglue in another misaligned fashion, then send to me to fix for a highly inflated price.

Note: Nitro methane is available at hobby shops in small amounts. In the good old days I could buy it by the gallon - no longer. It was/ is used as racing fuel for RC cars and airplanes.

Caution: This stuff is wildly flammable. It you must smoke while using, first please forward ALL your
Guns to Texas, in care of Octagon.
Superglue comes in three basic viscosities: Thin, medium, and Thick. I like to align the busted pieces, then leach in the thin stuff to assure proper alignment. Superglue is one of the worlds finest inventions right after motorcycles and beer and females (some females.)

[TedH]

I happen to have some of that fuel. I also fly RC airplanes. I'll try that tonight, thanks! Not worried about the finish, since I'm going to refinish the wood anyway.

[octagon]

TedH: Forgot a good tip:

I like super glue on gun repairs because wood glue will melt at around 130 degrees or so, which it gets to easily in a Texas truck in the summer, and VERY easily in the trunk of a car. The drawback is that super glue is more brittle than wood glue which is more flexible, something to be considered depending on location of repair.

The tip...
If clamping is required to close the crack fully on a forearm repair, I often will carve (on the belt sander) a piece that fits exactly inside the "U" channel of the forearm, to provide backup to the pressure of the clamp(s). Wrap the carved piece in wax paper so superglue won't stick to it. When using this method, you can close most ANY crack if all the pieces are there, and are left with a repair that is not only strong but invisible. Forearm repairs are the most common gun repair I do in my guitar shop, and rarely any refinishing is required.

If you are refinishing anyway, and have no luck with the Q tip, you can submerge that end of the forearm till it loosens the crappy repair, if you have plenty of nitro...good luck.

[TedH]

I have plenty of nitro, so I put a few ounces in a jar and submerged the Bubba'd end of the forearm. I left it in for about 10 minutes, and it didn't loosen it at all. Now I'm wondering if it's not superglue after all? The little bit of glue that was outside the crack on the inside of the forend sure appeared to be superglue, but perhaps it's some type of epoxy? I don't know how long it should take for the nitro to dissolve it if it is superglue?

[octagon]

I've never submerged a part, always just used Qtips, but with guitars we are talking much thinner pieces of wood. Marlin wood being really thick, Im thinking it might take awhile. While nitro is practically corrosive, I don't think submerging wood could hurt it. Try for an hour, then two...
Some epoxies are pretty clear to look at and have NO solvent...That's why I rarely use it, I want to disassemble if I want to. Occasionally a heat source will loosen epoxy just a touch, though it is not a solvent. I would not want to heat anything that's been soaking in Nitro...

[TedH]

Apparently it's not superglue. I left it for an hour last night, and it still was stuck. So I left it overnight in the nitro, this morning it's still stuck tight. Must be some sort of epoxy. Going to go with the sand and fill. If that doesn't turn out satisfactory, I'll just replace it. The only problem with that is getting a piece that matches the butt.

[Dusty Texian]

In the past I have made repairs on stocks of old Winchesters that a repair even if visible is more desirable than replacement wood. That type break is very common as you know. The repair you have may be doweled and the reason for being stuborn.This is only my opinion. If it were mine I would groove the crack from the inside deep enough to remove it and not disturbe the outside apperance. Once I was satisfied with the fit on the outside I would use small dowels as in toothpic size and wood glue just to set the position of the repair in place. After all is dry and outside apperiance is acceptable. I would then backfill the grooved area inside the stock with wood dust and glue that match color of piece.Most repairs done this way go undected ,some are noticable. But all have the original wood . DT