Marlin M1889 SRC - question regarding stock replacement

[5thCavalry]

Hello all,

I have a Marlin M1889 SRC that I'm trying to bring back to life (along with the 10+ other old Marlin/Winchester/Colt projects I have shelved....).

It mainly needs a stock. It has an old "Handmade Replacement" on it now that was apparently "Good enough" for whoever carved it out of an old barn timber.

My question is: Did the 1889 carbine share a stock with any other Marlin carbine model? (fit including exact shape as an 89') If so I can most likely find an original of another model, as 1889 SRC stocks do not often appear.

The only other Marlins I own all happen to be M1889 Rifles, and I know no one personally who owns an old Marlin 1892/1894 to compare the shape/fit of receivers/tangs.

Thank you in advance!

[Pete44ru]

.

AFAIK, since they're both short-actions, a stock from/for an original Model 1894/94 should fit (the 1889 was the predecessor of the M1894) - IDK if the newer (1970's to present) 1894's stock is the same.


.

[arjunky]

If Marlinman93 is around he would know, I don't think he's been here lately.

Byron

[5thCavalry]

Found the answer. A 1893/1894 SRC stock is a replacement. For now it will have to sit in the safe with my many other Marlin/Winchester projects as time & $$ permit. Lately an old 1878 (1881) Colt Frontier .45 has been occupying my spare time.

[5thCavalry]

To update my earlier article, I realized I never provided a clear reply - Figuratively speaking, the early Marlin Model 1893 & 1894 have the same profile and will be a suitable match, but not without some slight alteration to the lower tang slot. The lower tang on the Model 1889 is 10mm longer that the 1893/1894 tang, the slot will need to be lengthened. If you do attempt this yourself, take your time, don't use much pressure, measure several times, make the slot smaller than the original so that you can adjust the fit accordingly. If you get creative you can find some old brass shell casing that will have the same round diameter as the end of the tang. Lightly file(sharpen) the inside lip of the casing, you can use this as a scoring tool to lightly tap the end of the tang channel to be cut. Slightly smaller than the tang diameter by 0.5mm isn't bad as you can always trim more, but never replace an over cut.... I prefer to cut a channel beveled inwards from the top-down /__\ instead of straight |__| to allow a tight fit to the metal and more wiggle room for adjustment when joined, then make any fine adjustments with a scraper blade or a fine emery stick like those for your nails. The sticks are also good for smoothing out the new cut area in the tang bed if needed as well, you may need to trim some material off the emery stick if you want a edge-to-edge fit.

-John