Removing glossy finish from gun stock

getitdone1 · Post by **getitdone1** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:28 pm

Getting ready to remove the gloss from my Browning A-Bolt Medallion.

According to what I've read here 0000 steel wool is the way to go.

My biggest concern is when I get close to the checkering and the edges.

Seems like it'd be real easy to get into the checkering.

Assume long parallel strokes to finish for consistent dull sheen similar to the old revered hand-rubbed oil finishes.

Use 0000 steel wool only?

Of course I'd remove the barrel/action and also the recoil pad before working on the wood.

Where do I get a tool to remove the two cross-bolts on this gun? 375 H&H magnum. Two holes rather than slot in head of each of these bolts.

Advice about this appreciated.

Don McCullough

coyote nose · Post by **coyote nose** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:33 pm

Depending on how dull you want the finish, you may want to consider Birchwood Casey stock sheen, which is a mild buffing compound. Walmart usually has it in the guncare section, along with cold blues, gun oils, etc. I've used it to cut down gloss, but it wont make it real dull.

C. Cash · Post by **C. Cash** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:41 pm

Don,

You might consider Formby's Furniture Refinisher/varnish remover. This will take off the glossy finish but should leave the stain intact and unchanged. 0000 steel wool will work like a charm as an applicator...don't buy their pads. However, I would contact someone here who had done this on Browning finish to see if all came out good. Formby's has worked like a charm in the 3 stocks I have redone(a Winchester, Western Field Single Shot and a Savage(on the latter it takes off both finish and stain as they are one in the same thingon these). There is very little rubbing to get the formby's to work....works great.

Swampman · Post by **Swampman** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:46 pm

Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen & Conditioner would be the best way to go. I wouldn't use 0000 steel wool.

Pete44ru · Post by **Pete44ru** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 2:29 pm

[According to what I've read here 0000 steel wool is the way to go.]

I wouldn't do quite that, if I were you, Don.

OOOO steel wool is OK for a light scour on an epoxy finish to cut down the shine - if that's all you wanted to do.

If you're planning to totally refinish it, though, I would only use the wool as a liquid stripper applicator for the smooth wood areas and a old toothbrush for the same, in the checkering.

As good as Formby's is for abrasive-less finish removal, I don't believe it'll work on Browning's epoxy finish - although I've never tried it on such.

I would use a liquid stripper that's known to be effective on epoxy - like Citristrip from Wal-Mart.

86er · Post by **86er** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:32 pm

There are a number of places to get the tool to remove the crossbolts. Usually, they are sold as disc set striker tools. Some come with different heads that thread onto a shaft. Some are like screwdrivers, one piece. Brownells has them. If you measure the distance between holes, I can loan you one.

Want to make your own? Grind down a flathead screwdriver and flatten it off. Drill the two holes in it where you need the pins to be. Either turn pins on a lathe and harden the pins or find the appropriate sized drill bit and cut off the twisted part. Put pins into the holes in the flat head and tap in tight. There's your tool.

docpyzon · Post by **docpyzon** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:34 pm

Jack Creek Custom Gunstocks.........
To cut the gloss on your gun.... Wet sand using water and 1500 grit wet/dry paper. Use a small piece of gum eraser or similar material for backing the paper. Use plenty of water and wipe often and you will get the satin finish your looking for. If you want a duller finish use 1000 grit paper.Take your time............Good luck and let me know how it turns out...... I should add that in the curved portions of your stock you will need to back the paper with a round object. Vacum lines for automobiles work great for this and can be purchased in all diameters and cheap. Just cut them to the length you need. Never sand without a backer for the paper.....

getitdone1 · Post by **getitdone1** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 3:45 pm

I should have said "dulling" to a satin sheen and not "removing" or completely removing the Browning finish. Or, removing the glossy look, only. Suppose would be retaining at least 90% of original finish.

Don McCullough

backtobethel · Post by **backtobethel** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:17 pm

+1 on the Birchwood Caseys Stock Sheen and Conditioner. Will cut the gloss without much work or worry.

getitdone1 · Post by **getitdone1** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:46 pm

backtobethel wrote:+1 on the Birchwood Caseys Stock Sheen and Conditioner. Will cut the gloss without much work or worry.

backtobethel,

Your quote of a portion of the song Don't Fence Me In (Not shown here) got me to remembering that it was very popular with American GI's during WW II. Expect you might know that.

Guns and music, my two major interests.

Appears that the Birchwood Casey approach will be the one I'll take.
Got to looking and have the whole Kit which includes the Stock Sheen.

Don McCullough

guido4198 · Post by **guido4198** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:59 pm

0000 steel wool worked real well for me when I wanted to take the gloss off a Remington 700. It left a "satin" type finish, which still resists water, etc. I taped off the checkering with masking tape. I had the factory pad replaced with a Pachmayer "decelerator" . It's a .458 Win Mag.
Hope this helps...
Don

getitdone1 · Post by **getitdone1** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:56 pm

guido4198 wrote:0000 steel wool worked real well for me when I wanted to take the gloss off a Remington 700. It left a "satin" type finish, which still resists water, etc. I taped off the checkering with masking tape. I had the factory pad replaced with a Pachmayer "decelerator" . It's a .458 Win Mag.
Hope this helps...
Don

Don,

How much reduction in "felt-recoil" percentage-wise did the decelerator pad make?

Don McCullough

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:03 pm

I'd rub it with steel wool if its that Browning epoxy finish. All you need to do is skuff the surface to kill the shine.
I think I'd put masking tape over the checking & go at it. If its like what they put on my BLR you sure aint going thru it with 0000 steel wool.

Swampman · Post by **Swampman** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 4:47 am

The problem is that it won't just be dull. It will have millions of tiny scratches in the finish. 0000 isn't fine enough to do a good job.

1988rrc · Post by **1988rrc** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:45 am

have you guys ever used the de-glosser liquid you can get at the hardware store? it will cut the gloss; if you keep applying it, the finish will eventually be removed (takes a lot of rubbing).

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Mon Mar 24, 2008 2:09 pm

Swampman wrote:The problem is that it won't just be dull. It will have millions of tiny scratches in the finish. 0000 isn't fine enough to do a good job.

I'd guess it could get buffed out after if you could see the scratches. I'm just saying what I'd do, done it to an aweful lot of glossy guns but the Browning I had redone. I couldn't get that epoxy stuff off & ended up paying for it to get refinished, so I could well be wrong, but I'd try.

Removing glossy finish from gun stock

Removing glossy finish from gun stock

Cutting gloss finish