Model 94 (1940 vintage) stock repair

[cpy911]

Hi,
I have my Grandfather's 1940 Model 94 Winnie that has seen better days. Bluing is gone, barrel is not a mirror and the stock has damage around the wrist area. However, she still shoots and works fine with a smooth, smooth action.

The rifle, S/N puts it in 1940 year of manufacture. (Guess Winchester was not busy making Garands and Carbines yet)


Below is the damage to the stock.


I would like to have it professionally repaired, but don't want to pay more than what the rifle is worth. I don't want to replace the stock as I want to keep it in its vintage form. If I try to repair it myself, it may end up as a bubba job. So, not to excited to try this. Anyone around who does these types of repairs and any idea on ball park costs???

Thanks,

[geobru]

Nice old rifle! I understand your hesitation in taking this on, but from what I can see, anything you do is not visible from the exterior of the stock.

How tightly does the chip fit to the stock? If it is tight, it is a simple thing to glue it with woodworkers glue.

Does the bottom of the split in the inlet for the tang come out to the exposed part of the stock or into the inletting for the lower tang?
If it comes out in the lower tang inlet, that simplifies things because you won't necesarily have to refinish the stock.
If the split is too tight to open up to get glue into it, I would be tempted to carve a seam down the split with a dremel tool and fill that seam with epoxy. In addition you could drill a hole on each side of the split and connect the two holes with a furrow. Fill the holes and connecting furrow with epoxy and that would tie the two sides together. You could also use acuglass instead of epoxy.

I am sure that there are guys out there who would do this type of work, but I have no idea what they would charge. Good luck on whatever you decide to do.

[Blaine]

^^^^+1^^^^

If you're just fixing it up for your own use, you can make this serviceable with little problem. Glue the separated piece back......Pin the other split from the bottom with a toothpick and epoxy, and if the split will separate a little, get some superglue in there...the little crack should just suck some of it up...wipe off excess with fingernail polish pdq

[Griff]

Nice old rifle! I understand your hesitation in taking this on, but from what I can see, anything you do is not visible from the exterior of the stock.

How tightly does the chip fit to the stock? If it is tight, it is a simple thing to glue it with woodworkers glue.

Does the bottom of the split in the inlet for the tang come out to the exposed part of the stock or into the inletting for the lower tang?
If it comes out in the lower tang inlet, that simplifies things because you won't necesarily have to refinish the stock.
If the split is too tight to open up to get glue into it, I would be tempted to carve a seam down the split with a dremel tool and fill that seam with epoxy. In addition you could drill a hole on each side of the split and connect the two holes with a furrow. Fill the holes and connecting furrow with epoxy and that would tie the two sides together. You could also use acuglass instead of epoxy.

I am sure that there are guys out there who would do this type of work, but I have no idea what they would charge. Good luck on whatever you decide to do.

+1. If the split in the tang area goes all the way from top to bottom, but doesn't extend past the tang screw, then yes... epoxy and a clamp. If the split ends before the tang screw, and whether it extends all the way thru the inlet (top to bottom) or not, I'd drill a small hole (1/8" or less) at the end and force the epoxy from that point out thru the front and clamp. Same with the broken piece on the inside panel.

[cpy911]

Ok. I like some of the ideas.
I will take a closer look to get it back into service condition
hopefully with just minor repair.
So, what brand epoxy or glue should I use?

[geobru]

So, what brand epoxy or glue should I use?

I'd glue it with Elmers woodworking glue and I have used 10 minute epoxy that I got at the hardware store. I like having a few more minutes to work with the piece before it sets up.

[Marc]

I repaired one like that only worse. I was able to get 60 Minute Epoxy at Ace Hardware. That gives you a lot more working time. Warming the stock in the sun or with a hair dryer helps thin the epoxy and get it into the crack. If the crack is deep you can drill a hole from the end of the stock down the middle of the crack. Follow the crack with the drill. Fill the hole with epoxy and then push a dowel into the hole to force the epoxy into the crack. Clamp and let it dry.

[Tycer]

Drilling along the crack from inside the inletted area with a 1/8 bit and then driving glue into that hole with a 1/8" dowel will force it into the crack. Clamp it and cut off the dowel when dry. A good quality wood glue will work as will super glue and epoxy. Since that is contained within the inletted area, a polyurethane glue would work also.

[cpy911]

The crack was not too bad. It was not to the tang screw (yet). I slightly watered down some wood glue to help make it flow better and put it in a hypodermic syringe with needle. I then "injected" the crack until it flowed out of all the crack seams with the glue, clamped and wiped off excess. I will leave it overnight and evaluate in the morning.

I will then clean the surfaces of the "chip" with some sort of cleaner (Isopropal Alcohol?) and then just bond it back in place with the wood glue. Probably will not need to thin it down.

Should be usable. Will let you know how it goes.

[ollogger]

Good going! sounds like ya got it sewed up


ollogger

[rjohns94]

Well done. Don't forget the pictures of the work.

[Borregos]

Well done. Don't forget the pictures of the work.

+1

[cpy911]

Well, my first attempted failed. The glue flowed really nice, but I watered it down too much and did not have very good holding force.
I am going to get another syringe today that is smaller gauge in order to get it down in the crack better. My other syringe had problems.
I will then not down as much and try again.

Live and learn!

Ok. Got a better syringe, did not water it down as much. In business now!




Wish me luck!

[cpy911]

Howdy. I removed the clamps this morning and checked for strength.
Looks and feels great. You can not even tell that there was a crack!

Now I am going to start working on the chip.
Any good cleaning agents I can use before
gluing the chip back in?

[octagon]

Apply NAPTHA with a Q tip to all gluing surfaces. A can of ronswick lighter fluid like the kind your grandpa used for his zippo lighter is made of naptha and is cheap.

[wm]

Good for you.......obviously a labor of love.

[geobru]

Lookin Good!

[Griff]

I love it when a plan comes together! Good luck with the chip. I think you've got 'em licked!

[cpy911]

Took off the rubber bands today. Everything looks and feels real nice. The chip went in perfect. I am very happy with the results.
I "lovingly" hand rubbed boiled linseed oil into the wood to moisturize and protect it. I think the stock will be very strong and be good enough for my kids to use someday....worse case, they either repair or replace the stock as the metal is in good shape.

Here is a story I shared on a previous thread for you to learn a little more about the rifle: http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... 20#p576237

I am thankful to have it in my hands.

Some pictures:

All rubber banded up


After the chip and stock repair top and bottom

[cpy911]

Ok. She is all done. Actually wish I did it sooner, I think it was all minor enough that just gluing was the ticket. You can not tell that I did anything, other than the stock no longer wiggles when installed. Here is a picture. Notice the "chunk" that got busted out on left side of the stock around the area of the hammer ..that is how it was handed to me...gives it character for sure.