Has anyone seen one of these used on a lever action rifle or have one on their own? How well does it work? Is it a good sling to have on a lever action rifle? Is the accuracy affected?
Just curious...
Ching Sling on a lever action rifle?
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pullnshoot25
- Levergunner 1.0
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rangerider7
- Advanced Levergunner
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...The Ching sling requires three attachment points. Where and how are you planning to put the middle attachment point? 
Are you talking about the traditional leverguns, or one of the more modern(?) one-piece stocked leverguns? If it doesn't have three attachment points, it's NOT a Ching sling.
...old goat
Are you talking about the traditional leverguns, or one of the more modern(?) one-piece stocked leverguns? If it doesn't have three attachment points, it's NOT a Ching sling. ...old goat
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Bruce in WV
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:39 pm
- Location: Eastern Panhandle, WV
Ching sling on 2 piece stocks (long)
I have Ching slings on 2 bolt rifles and like them. Years ago I wanted to put one on a Martini coyote gun and did some research on it. I corresponded with Mr. Ching about where to place the 3rd post. He said he hadn't studied that problem and had no suggestion.
I studied it a bit longer and did some research on historical sling attachment points, etc (the Ching sling is supposedly an updated British military design). Its been a while, but I believe that I found pictures of long guns with 2 piece stocks (large, military Martini's I think) that had the third attachment point on the bottom front of the action, but I don't remember how it was attached (cast in, screwed in, silver soldered, welded?).
The forward point was on a barrel band, I think, and the rear attachment was in the traditional spot on the butt.
It seems like that combination of attachment points would work OK, but I never tested it because I sold my Martini.
The issue would be uneven strain on the various parts as you 'slinged up' (especially if the forward attachment was on the barrel) and how that would affect accuracy. Its still an interesting question that I'd love to hear answered.
I studied it a bit longer and did some research on historical sling attachment points, etc (the Ching sling is supposedly an updated British military design). Its been a while, but I believe that I found pictures of long guns with 2 piece stocks (large, military Martini's I think) that had the third attachment point on the bottom front of the action, but I don't remember how it was attached (cast in, screwed in, silver soldered, welded?).
The forward point was on a barrel band, I think, and the rear attachment was in the traditional spot on the butt.
It seems like that combination of attachment points would work OK, but I never tested it because I sold my Martini.
The issue would be uneven strain on the various parts as you 'slinged up' (especially if the forward attachment was on the barrel) and how that would affect accuracy. Its still an interesting question that I'd love to hear answered.
The Safari Ching Sling uses only two mounting points. It is a good concept and I have used one. I found the two pieces where ther elbow cup is formed make noise and after time the elbow cup slots that hold onto the studs stretch and the cup comes off. It is no more stable than wrapping a traditional sling around your elbow (the two point safari that is - never used the original 3 point). It can't hurt to try it but don't expect it to be a save-all compared to other slings. It is made well and does what the Galco claims it does. I wouldn't turn one down but for me its not my favorite.
After decades of ISU shooting, I'm on the one hand pretty devoted to the sling, though on the other fairly happy with my offhand, or unsupported positions. Sure a sling is always better, in certain regards but i'm not shooting 60 shots in the field, at paper, I can normally hold it together without a sling for one shot. I don't use a sling on levers but I have thought of addapting one of the tactical type slings just to keep the gun in place and ready to go.
While you can get from your back to a supported position pretty quickly with a Ching sling, the standard leather military sling also gets you there too, you can use the forward loop as a single point loop, or you can just use the regular old 2 point sling worked great for ever. With the latter you are going to need to work on your geometry so the gun isn't getting bent like a bow, but that is mostly just good shooting form anyway.
If you look at the whole universe a precision sling isn't going to get used that much:
- Gimmies were you can't miss unless you sneeze
- Fast in close or brushy, where you don't want a sling
- Precision shots where a sling would be helpful if you had something other than that 30-30 with iron sights, and could reach out there.
- Precision shots where the sling would be helpful but you prefered to use the guide's shooting sticks, the hat , the hand on the side of the tree, etc...
-Precision shots where you don't have the time to get into a sling
- Precision shots where you have to use standing to see over stuff and use close to body style.
- Precision shots where a sling is helpful you have time, position options, the right rifle, but the 2 point sling is perfectly good enough.
- Precision shots where the ching sling or other one point sling is virtually required for success, a narrow 1 or 2 degree slice of the pie chart.
I'd feel differently about a bolt gun, because I would probably use it for different styles of shooting where 300 yard shots, and longer, are at least on the menu from time to time.
If you work hard on your shooting you are probably capable of 2 minutes of angle offhand, plus your intrinsic rifle accuracy, let's say 2-3 MOA, and a lot better for some. So at worst in still weather, with known distances, you should be good to go out to about 200 yards offhand, and a little better unsupported kneeling. as long as 10 inch groups will hit your target, If your rifle is doing 1.5 MOA, you should be good for 7 inches at 200.
While you can get from your back to a supported position pretty quickly with a Ching sling, the standard leather military sling also gets you there too, you can use the forward loop as a single point loop, or you can just use the regular old 2 point sling worked great for ever. With the latter you are going to need to work on your geometry so the gun isn't getting bent like a bow, but that is mostly just good shooting form anyway.
If you look at the whole universe a precision sling isn't going to get used that much:
- Gimmies were you can't miss unless you sneeze
- Fast in close or brushy, where you don't want a sling
- Precision shots where a sling would be helpful if you had something other than that 30-30 with iron sights, and could reach out there.
- Precision shots where the sling would be helpful but you prefered to use the guide's shooting sticks, the hat , the hand on the side of the tree, etc...
-Precision shots where you don't have the time to get into a sling
- Precision shots where you have to use standing to see over stuff and use close to body style.
- Precision shots where a sling is helpful you have time, position options, the right rifle, but the 2 point sling is perfectly good enough.
- Precision shots where the ching sling or other one point sling is virtually required for success, a narrow 1 or 2 degree slice of the pie chart.
I'd feel differently about a bolt gun, because I would probably use it for different styles of shooting where 300 yard shots, and longer, are at least on the menu from time to time.
If you work hard on your shooting you are probably capable of 2 minutes of angle offhand, plus your intrinsic rifle accuracy, let's say 2-3 MOA, and a lot better for some. So at worst in still weather, with known distances, you should be good to go out to about 200 yards offhand, and a little better unsupported kneeling. as long as 10 inch groups will hit your target, If your rifle is doing 1.5 MOA, you should be good for 7 inches at 200.
You can also go one step further in tacticaldom now - XS is putting out a triple rail foreend.BrianSH wrote:Why not?
S&W is marketing a "tactical" revolver. Why not a Ching Sling on a lever.
But only on a lever that has black synthetic furniture - no wood.
Steppin' back in time with the plastic fantastic.
-Brian
I've put a chingsling on mine (made by TheWilderness), but the concept is new to me so I don't have a lot of input. I mounted it about as close to the receiver as I could and am just clear of the lever at full extension, depending on how it fits you there may be interference.
I used a buttstock sling attachment from Marlin. There is plenty of wood in the fat forearm to install it solidly. I've slinged up about 50 times so far in the garage just getting a feel for it. Mine is synthetic so I am not worried about it stretching out and I think it matches the XLR furniture just fine.
The safari chingsling working off two points shouldn't have the problem of lever interference, but given the feedback above I don't know if it is a really good solution.
I think TomD laid it out pretty well - how many situations would you need it for - and is it worth it? I still want to give it a try.
Photo here http://www.flickr.com/photos/rkt88edmo/2306480549/
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Lastmohecken
- Senior Levergunner
- Posts: 1970
- Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2007 1:42 pm
- Location: Arkansas
I think Jeff Cooper called this the CW sling. I have used it on my Remington 700 boltaction in 350 Rem. Mag with good sucess. I just added another sling stud to the stock in front of the recoil lug. So far I have not done it to any of my other guns, and most leveractions would require a more elaborate method of installing a third stud, as I would not be too confortable installing a stud in those light forends. But I am sure it could be done and done well if one wants one bad enough. Maybe a special barrel band that would go around the forestock, either metal or leather.
I like the CW sling, so I may look at adding one to my BLR, somehow. I would however hate to deface some of my classic leveractions by adding one.
I like the CW sling, so I may look at adding one to my BLR, somehow. I would however hate to deface some of my classic leveractions by adding one.