OT: Crude forge 2.0

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JReed
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OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

Well took some advice and found my self a break drum and a chunk of RR track. I had laid a piece broken pot down in the bottom of the drum to cover the large center hole. Then I laid my charcoal and lit it off. All worked well for a while until I noticed that my coals were little by little disappearing :? . Finally I shuffled the coals around and discovered that the cover I had put in the bottom had broken from the heat and fallen through allowing the coals to drop out the bottom. Needless to say I need to do some more work in the fine tuning department to get every thing working well but the break drum is the way to go that darn thing stands up to a lot of heat. All in all happy with the progress.

Image

RR track anvil. I need to take the belt sander to it to clean up the work surface.
Image

Foot added to make YK happy :lol:
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

JReed,
You are on the path to true enlightenment!
Chuck 100 yd
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Chuck 100 yd »

I have spent many an hour pounding on red hot steel.
Something about it satisfies. For knife making, get an old coil spring from a car and cut it up. Some of the best steel around. Here is one of my pig stickers.
Image
Have fun!! :D
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

Nicely done, I have a Bowie from a 3/4 ton chevy spring, not that pretty though.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

Chuck that is a very nice blade. It will be a long time before I get good enough for that. Right now I am just beating up scrap from around the house and yard. I'll stick with crawling for a while.

Pounding on hot metal with a big hammer is turning out to be great stress relief.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

Wonderful therapy.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

mescalero1 wrote:Wonderful therapy.

Yes it is :D
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by madman4570 »

That is a neat working forge :D
Low overhead and gets it done!
Also

Chuck 100yd,
Boy, thats a nice looking knife.
Do you sell them like that baby?
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Wind »

Hey there JReed - Could I suggest a hefty chunk o' stump under your railroad iron. Would elevate it to a convenient hammering height. Best regards. Wind
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

Wind wrote:Hey there JReed - Could I suggest a hefty chunk o' stump under your railroad iron. Would elevate it to a convenient hammering height. Best regards. Wind
That's the next acquisition. I am putting it together 1 piece at a time. I had to go to 6 different auto shops for the drum and I just lucked into the track today. I will have to keep my eye open for a stump shouldn't be hard to find one lots of folk around here have been cutting trees lately. Then I need to get some fire brick to get the forge off the ground.

Once it get's all put together the first thing is to get good enough to start making some decent tools. Then I will work on other things as I get better.
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Chuck 100 yd
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Chuck 100 yd »

madman4570 , I don`t own a single blade I have made. I used to make them and give them away as gifts to special people. The one in the pic. belongs to my wife.
Lately I cant even find time to cast bullets!! :x :? :o
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by pokey »

keep it up you'll be a smith in no time.
careful what you wish for, you might just get it.

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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Abilene »

J Reed,

I made most my of my gunsmithin' tools in a metals class in college. Motorcycle springs or coilover shock springs make really good chisels and scrapers. Later on I found the broken coil springs from over head doors works real well. Just remember to swirl or keep your stock moving in the oil bath or air bubbles will affect the hardness. When you draw the temper remember to quench in water to stop the colors. Wood chisels work well w/ a light straw color and cold chisels are hard w/ a purple color. Hope this helps Abilene
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

Thanks for the tip. This is a work in progress. I will have to pick y'alls brains when I get the point of making real items instead of lumps of beat up metal.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Ysabel Kid »

Chuck 100 yd wrote:I have spent many an hour pounding on red hot steel.
Something about it satisfies. For knife making, get an old coil spring from a car and cut it up. Some of the best steel around. Here is one of my pig stickers.
Image
Have fun!! :D
WOW! That is a work of art!!! :shock:
Image
20cows
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by 20cows »

Chuck, I am not even on the same planet when it comes to the finish work, wow!
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Ben_Rumson »

You can get knife blanks out of leaf springs (read flat spring) from P.U. trucks too.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Cliff »

Blacksmithing is a fun adventure, however be prepared to be added to some sort of big brothers watch list. Think about it, you make fire, without supervision. You heat and bend various alloys without goverment supervision. Who knows you might be making all kinds of dangerous weapons, knives to start, then swords, spear points. Then will come the time for rapid fire large bore cannons, machine guns, it will never end. We need forge regulation it is for the children. Now then lets talk about Carbon Credits, air pollution, the list of the dangers to the enviorment can be endless. A lot of blacksmiths are also free thinkers. The horror of it all. :roll: :D
Hope you enjoy yourself. ATB
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

I knew there was a reason I liked it.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Buffboy »

The leaf springs from cars can work for big stuff but can be unwieldy. A good source of metal for blademaking is the local metalshop/manufacturing plant that uses the older powered hacksaws. Get some of those worn out blades and they make great knives. Worn sawzall blades are good sources for quality metal for smaller blades, too.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

My Bowie is from a chevy 3/4 ton leaf spring.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by adirondakjack »

is the forge naturally aspirated, bellows or what? I see the air inlet pipe. I was daydreaming about a brake drum forge that uses a battery-operated computer fan to run air in via the pipe. I figure a trip to the scrap yard, a big ole truck brake drum and a hunk of 3" pipe and an elbow and I'm good to go. I note above the center hole needs a plate to cover it. I just happen to have a couple of chimney blocks I can use to elevate it, maybe glob some concrete around the drum to add heat collection so the drum need not be buried?

My previous knives have all been stock removal method using an angle grinder. I wanna do damascas ;)
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

8" fan pushing the air into the other hole. There is a hollow space under the drumb that allows the air to come up underneath not a lot of pressure but high volume.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by piller »

Jeremy, start with carbon steel. It will forgive most mistakes, it is easy to make it soak up carbon as compared to stainless, and carbon steel usually holds a better edge. When you get to the point of quenching it, get a heavy plastic 5 gallon bucket and try a saltwater quench. Sometimes an oil quench will work, but with carbon steel of unknown origin, stay with saltwater. Don't forget the heat soak, and most of all, take all the enjoyment in the porcess as you can. It is as much fun as most people ever have.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

adirondakjack,
Back when I was doing gun shows; I used to ghost around and buy ( cheap ) old double barrel damacus shotgun barrels, that were no longer good for barrels, I have not done it yet, but that should satisfy you untill you can make your own damacus.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

Boy,
I really blew damascus, WOW
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Gobblerforge »

mescalero1 wrote:Boy,
I really blew damascus, WOW
:shock: :lol:
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Abilene »

JReed,

Seems like I remember seein' a forge simular( I still cain't spell)to yours that used a metal tube (sheetiron) to get a plastic hair drier far enough from the heat that it didn't melt. That would give ya 2 or 3 air speeds. May just have to assemble one for myself. Abilene
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by JReed »

Go for it. I owe Andrew for the credit on this one. I only made some improvements on his original design.
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by AJMD429 »

Chuck 100 yd wrote:For knife making, get an old coil spring from a car and cut it up. Some of the best steel around.
I never made a knife from scratch, so this may be a dumb question, but - COIL spring... :?: or Leaf...Surely Leaf... :?:
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by mescalero1 »

I went leaf
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Re: OT: Crude forge 2.0

Post by Gobblerforge »

"I never made a knife from scratch, so this may be a dumb question, but - COIL spring... :?: or Leaf...Surely Leaf... :?: "
I think the part you are missing is that the metal will be heated and hammered, ie forged, in to the desired shape. The coil spring has a lot of round spring stock that can be easily heated and straightened into a round bar and comes in many sizes. For a knife say the size if a kitchen knife or smaller, a garage door spring, heated and flattened only, will produce a nice size blank in which a knife can be filed and shaped. Much easier and faster than cutting or drawing a flat leaf spring.
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