Winchester '94 action tightened: NOT GOOD!
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Winchester '94 action tightened: NOT GOOD!
While shooting my .32 WSP DOM=1912, the action tightened up as if something had been bent(?) loosened(?). The loads were normal pressures.
I've read that toothpaste, steel wool, polishing the bolt might help some dragging problems.
What might have caused this rifle to tighten?
I'd like to get it back to its smooth, easily cycled state.
I've read that toothpaste, steel wool, polishing the bolt might help some dragging problems.
What might have caused this rifle to tighten?
I'd like to get it back to its smooth, easily cycled state.
Check for damage, or misplaced parts before you do anything.
My Marlin 1895 ( Marilyn as I call her ) did something similar. What had happened in this case, was one of the set screws in the top on the reciever had somehow threaded it's way through, and contacted the bolt.
It may just need a good cleaning, or a different lube.
My Marlin 1895 ( Marilyn as I call her ) did something similar. What had happened in this case, was one of the set screws in the top on the reciever had somehow threaded it's way through, and contacted the bolt.
It may just need a good cleaning, or a different lube.
- J Miller
- Member Emeritus
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- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 7:46 pm
- Location: Not in IL no more ... :)
Re: Winchester '94 action tightened: NOT GOOD!
Leverbar,LeverBar wrote:While shooting my .32 WSP DOM=1912, the action tightened up as if something had been bent(?) loosened(?). The loads were normal pressures.
I've read that toothpaste, steel wool, polishing the bolt might help some dragging problems.
What might have caused this rifle to tighten?
I'd like to get it back to its smooth, easily cycled state.
Forget the toothpaste, steel wool, and the rest of the stuff. Since that rifle was working good to start with something has happened inside. Take it totally apart and check everything for worn parts, dirt gummed up oil or debris. Especially ckeck the pin that holds the lever to the bolt and the two carrier screws. I've seen them worn almost all the way through. Check for debris inside, I once found a primer inside one that was causing trouble. Hose the bolt out with aerosol cleaner, you never know what junk is lurking around the firing pin. And the curve at the top of the lever actually retracts the firing pin, so if the firing pin is binding, every thing will bind.
Find the problem and fix it. I might just need to be cleaned and lubed.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts
.***
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- J Miller
- Member Emeritus
- Posts: 14885
- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 7:46 pm
- Location: Not in IL no more ... :)
I wouldn't if you take your time and hunt up a couple exploded drawings.
They are actually a very simple action to work on. And there is nothing that requires a tremendous amount of force to remove.
The lever to bolt pin will push out once you remove the retaining screw. No need to use force. If it does not come out you'll need to jiggle and wiggle things, not beat on them.
Other than that just slowly unscrew things from the butstock forward and study where each thing come out.
Oh, no two parts are the same except the carrier screws and the cartridge guide screws. All other screws are unique to their positions. And if they are tight you don't need to remove the cartridge guide screws.
The hammer screw holds the hammer and lower tang in place. The lower tang may be VERY tight. It has a boss that rides in a grove on each side. These early ones were actually fitted and over time will simply grow in there. Take a wooden down and tap it back out of the receiver from the front end. Or it could be loose and then it will come right out. I've seen them both ways.
Feel free to PM me with questions if you need to.
Joe
They are actually a very simple action to work on. And there is nothing that requires a tremendous amount of force to remove.
The lever to bolt pin will push out once you remove the retaining screw. No need to use force. If it does not come out you'll need to jiggle and wiggle things, not beat on them.
Other than that just slowly unscrew things from the butstock forward and study where each thing come out.
Oh, no two parts are the same except the carrier screws and the cartridge guide screws. All other screws are unique to their positions. And if they are tight you don't need to remove the cartridge guide screws.
The hammer screw holds the hammer and lower tang in place. The lower tang may be VERY tight. It has a boss that rides in a grove on each side. These early ones were actually fitted and over time will simply grow in there. Take a wooden down and tap it back out of the receiver from the front end. Or it could be loose and then it will come right out. I've seen them both ways.
Feel free to PM me with questions if you need to.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts
.***
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
LeverBar,
Joe gives good advice. You might want to check the loading gate screw first. If that is loose, the spring can put tension on the lifter.
w30wcf
Joe gives good advice. You might want to check the loading gate screw first. If that is loose, the spring can put tension on the lifter.
w30wcf
aka John Kort
aka Jack Christian SASS 11993 "I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me." Philippians 4:13
aka w44wcf (black powder)
NRA Life member
.22 WCF, .30 WCF, .44 WCF Cartridge Historian
aka Jack Christian SASS 11993 "I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me." Philippians 4:13
aka w44wcf (black powder)
NRA Life member
.22 WCF, .30 WCF, .44 WCF Cartridge Historian
-
- Levergunner 1.0
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2007 1:14 pm
Might take video or digital pictures each step of the dis-assembly . To help you re-assemble it .J Miller wrote:I wouldn't if you take your time and hunt up a couple exploded drawings.
They are actually a very simple action to work on. And there is nothing that requires a tremendous amount of force to remove.
The lever to bolt pin will push out once you remove the retaining screw. No need to use force. If it does not come out you'll need to jiggle and wiggle things, not beat on them.
Other than that just slowly unscrew things from the butstock forward and study where each thing come out.
Oh, no two parts are the same except the carrier screws and the cartridge guide screws. All other screws are unique to their positions. And if they are tight you don't need to remove the cartridge guide screws.
The hammer screw holds the hammer and lower tang in place. The lower tang may be VERY tight. It has a boss that rides in a grove on each side. These early ones were actually fitted and over time will simply grow in there. Take a wooden down and tap it back out of the receiver from the front end. Or it could be loose and then it will come right out. I've seen them both ways.
Feel free to PM me with questions if you need to.
Joe
God bless
Wyr
Gracious! Cas. I really didn't need to know that! My eyes!My eyes!
How are these directions?
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/tdown.htm
How are these directions?
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/tdown.htm
Leverbar
I have a factory repair manual for the pre 64 94 with very clear disassembly instructions with words and drawings. If you email me your info I will mail you one.
rustygun@msn.com
I have a factory repair manual for the pre 64 94 with very clear disassembly instructions with words and drawings. If you email me your info I will mail you one.
rustygun@msn.com
I've found that when a Winchester M94 suddenly tightens, it's usually a bent pivot pin somewhere.
The last one I had was on a BB94 that suddenly developed a hard trigger pull as I was shooting it at the range -yup, a bent trigger pivot pin I fixed by replacing it with a ground down section of appropriately sized drill bit shank.
The last one I had was on a BB94 that suddenly developed a hard trigger pull as I was shooting it at the range -yup, a bent trigger pivot pin I fixed by replacing it with a ground down section of appropriately sized drill bit shank.
Just finished putting the rifle back together--and the action is free again!
This rifle has been well cared for over the years, hardly any residue inside--not shot much.
I'm not certain what did the trick. Maybe I cleared a screw hole a bit and a slightly bent screw is realigned as to not inhibit a smooth bolt?
There were slight bumps on the bolt guides. Steel wooled them--not much though. But these shouldn't have been a problem because as I dismantled the rifle, I worked the bolt after removing the hammer and the lower tang--it worked smoothly at that point.
Oiled, though it didn't need it prior to dismantling.
But, it works now!
Thank you all for the suggestions. knowledge, and support in this task.
This rifle has been well cared for over the years, hardly any residue inside--not shot much.
I'm not certain what did the trick. Maybe I cleared a screw hole a bit and a slightly bent screw is realigned as to not inhibit a smooth bolt?
There were slight bumps on the bolt guides. Steel wooled them--not much though. But these shouldn't have been a problem because as I dismantled the rifle, I worked the bolt after removing the hammer and the lower tang--it worked smoothly at that point.
Oiled, though it didn't need it prior to dismantling.
But, it works now!
Thank you all for the suggestions. knowledge, and support in this task.