1886 Stock Repair (Gulp)

[geobru]

I have an 1886 that I have referred to here in previous posts that has been in my family since the late 20's. It was a beater then, and sat for about 80 years without a rear sight and was basically ignored. There was no ammo for it, but I used to sneak into dad's closet and work that lever action, and wonder what it would be like to shoot it.

Sometime in ancient history, someone decided to put a sling on it, and after carrying it last hunting season, I understand why! As a result of that alteration, there were two screw holes in the stock and three in the forearm. You might ask why there were two holes in the stock? Well, whoever did it didn't have the knack of getting a screw started in the middle of the stock. Both holes were off to the side, about 3/4 inch from each other.

1886 Butt Stock - Screw Holes.jpg

The next valid question is WHY OH WHY ARE THERE THREE HOLES IN THE FOREARM???? The answer to that is that the wood in the forearm is too thin to support the weight of the rifle. The hole in the bottom of the wood split out, so they put in a screw on each side of the forearm to distribute the weight a little better, (I guess!!) This was the result.

1886 Forearm split Pre-finish 11.jpg

I debated on how to "fix" these flaws, especially the split in the forearm without ruining the thing. There are most likely some of you who have extensive experience at this sort of thing, but that isn't me. I have a few simple tools, and a little bit of ingenuity. I decided that I would make some small dowels to fill in the screw holes and I would inlay a strip of walnut over the split to tie the wood together. I seriously questioned my sanity in touching a 120 year old piece of wood, but armed with a plan, I proceeded anyway.

I laid out the inlay outline using duct tape. I was able to get the strips of tape parallel to each other and the tape provided an edge to line up a piece metal that was used as an edge to scribe the edges of the cut.

1886 Finish 1.jpg

1886 Finish 2.jpg

After scribing the edges, I cut the wood crossways in the cut so the wood wouldn't split the wrong way when I pressed into the wood with a wood chisel.

1886 Finish 4.jpg

The groove wound up looking like this and was only off by .004 inch in one spot.

1886 Finish 7.jpg

I used a mototool to scribe a shallow groove that followed the split so I could saturate it with super glue to add strength.

1886 Finish 10.jpg

Then I fitted a strip of walnut into the groove and used 5 minute epoxy to glue it in.

1886 Finish 16.jpg

Then the sanding started in earnest to shape the new walnut to the original shape of the forearm. This is how it came out.

1886 40-82 Butt Stock Hole Repair 1.jpg

1886 40-82 Inlay Closeup 3.jpg

[marlinman93]

Very nice repair, and a great improvement too!

[rjohns94]

looks much better. Wow, what an undertaking. May it last for another 80 years

[Sixgun]

For a guy who claims to "have a few simple tools and a little ingenuity", well, ya done very nice. I too, am no professional and like to fix up things along that nature and I would have done the exact same thing. I like the idea of using the same kind of wood that you are fixing, so that leave out wooden dowels.

Sometimes with much smaller indentations that you have, I have mixed up walnut saw dust with stainable Elmers Glue to fill in the hole. Slap a little dark brown leather dye on it and she's good-to-go.

What caliber is the '86 in?-----------Sixgun

[geobru]

What caliber is the '86 in?-

She is a 40-82.

[deerwhacker444]

Very nice repair. Personally, I like the screw holes too, they add a lot of "character" and you know they could tell stories.

[Mike D.]

VERY good job!

[Wind]

Hey there geobru - Good solution dude! I too know all about that "gulp" feeling. Way to persevere. Wind

[Modoc ED]

One hell of a job. Looks good.

[Chuck 100 yd]

SWEET! Nice repair. Kind`a looks like an old repair that`s been there for years.

[kimwcook]

I agree that you did an excellent job. Without looking real close I doubt anyone will even notice.

[J Miller]

Those are excellent repairs. You fixed the damage, made it stronger and yet the evidence, and the stories remain.

That is work to be proud of.

Joe

[airedaleman]

SWEET! Nice repair. Kind`a looks like an old repair that`s been there for years.

VERY well done! Keep handling it, and no one will be able to tell it's recent work.

[pokey]

nice, very nice. something to be proud of.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

Very nice job. One little trick you may want to consider for the next one is to taper the sides of the notch then slightly taper the patch piece but leave it just a bit over-size. When you clamp it in the patch will conform a little better and once sanded the lines will virtually disappear.

[geobru]

One little trick you may want to consider for the next one is to taper the sides of the notch then slightly taper the patch piece but leave it just a bit over-size. When you clamp it in the patch will conform a little better and once sanded the lines will virtually disappear.

That is a good tidbit to know. I will try that next time. Thanks!

As it is, the lines filled in pretty well with repeated applications of Truoil followed by buffing with steel wool. You can see the color difference, bot the surface is smooth.

[Ysabel Kid]

For a guy who claims to "have a few simple tools and a little ingenuity", well, ya done very nice.

My thoughts exactly Sixgun - excellent job geobru!

[J Miller]

geobru,

Can you post some before and after pics of the entire rifle? I love that repair, but I'd like to see the whole thing if you can.

Joe

[Sixgun]

Very nice job. One little trick you may want to consider for the next one is to taper the sides of the notch then slightly taper the patch piece but leave it just a bit over-size. When you clamp it in the patch will conform a little better and once sanded the lines will virtually disappear.

Steve, I keep telling people I am self-taught but posts like yours make me out to be a liar. Thanks--I gotta try that as those lines are near impossible to get rid of.-----------Sixgun

[cnjarvis]

Very nice job. One little trick you may want to consider for the next one is to taper the sides of the notch then slightly taper the patch piece but leave it just a bit over-size. When you clamp it in the patch will conform a little better and once sanded the lines will virtually disappear.

I hadn't thought of that but it makes sense!

Another thing to consider when making repairs like this is to select a piece for the inlay that matches the grain structure and color of the original wood as closely as possible. I've seen repairs in furniture that are nearly invisible.