Questions regarding a Lee 309-170-F Mold and others

[EdinCT]

I am casting for my 94 30-30 that I purchased and had bought this mold to try because the Lyman 311041's aren't in stock anywhere. After running a batch of bullets I noticed that the diameter was only .3075 with my Lyman #2 and 20-1 50/50 blend. So I powder coated them with Harbor Freight red and lubed them with White label 2500 and Sage copper checks applied. They shot great with 26.5 gr.of 30-31 but I had to tap my lever to seat the cartridge Which turned me off of powder coating.
So I cast some more and just lubed them and loaded hoping they would bump up and they still need a little persuading for the last 3/16 inch or so because of the bore ride section. I am happy to report that the 6 shells loaded and shot didn't lead which speaks well for the White Label lube and check. But I want to be able to run this like a factory round. Lee said send the mold back at my expense and if it was out of tolerance they would replace it, but suggested run it with more tin first to see if that helps.
So I am looking around for molds similar to the Lyman for a retired mans budget. Arsenal has one but the nose dia. isn't shown so I feel it could be a stuff shoot. Also Accurate has one that is similar and it shows a .300 =/- .002 I believe which will put me back in the stuff shoot range.
I also read where NOE is back in business but I would have to wait for a group buy for a run and I had purchased a NOE Ranch dog 170 for my 32 special. I had to run the nose into a Lee .308 size die after loading them to get them to feed.
So I'm asking what has worked in pre 64 30-30s for those with experience. I have read Mr. Taylors use of the RCBS 180's but they are pricy today if found.
Also anyone think the bore which looks good could be tight due to copper fowling and a deep cleaning is in order?

[Ray]

I have had to trim brass to shorter than specs. in similar situations..... That does not logically seem applicable but it has almost always sufficed. How much to trim ? Trial and error, just enough to close the lever normally.

I have had to resize the loaded rounds as well and like to have a sizer with the stem removed standing by ready if necessary.

Gently there.....the .30 wcf and the .22 hornet and the .218 bee-.25-20-.32-20 like to collapse at the shoulders with this treatment.

[LeverGunner]

I don't think the bore is tight due to copper fouling. With the bullet being a touch undersized, but the gas check being sized to the appropriate size you could try the full power loads you want and see how they do.

I ran across this technique for powder coating just the driving bands, and I saved the post and picture, but I didn't save the link to the thread. This is from user waco over on castboolits.

Pretty easy fix for not getting the nose too big when powder coating. No extra tool needed. Get a bowl of warm water and sprinkle some powder coat powder on the surface. A liberal amount. Hold the bullet by the nose and dunk the driving bands into the water a few time. Stop before you get to the nose or bore riding part of the bullet. Stand on end on some wax paper to dry. Bake as normal. Problem solved. Powder coat where you want it and none where you don’t.

[EdinCT]

I seated a cast bullet without powder coat/or crimp today and it jammed when it went into the rifling. I tapped it out from the muzzle with a muzzle protector around the rod. It was engraved about 3/8 inch up the bore rider. I then seated the bullet with the seating die turned into the same spot its adjusted for the Speer 170's into a sized case and it seats deeper with the Lee because the ogive is different. I then fed it through the magazine and it fed with just a small amount of drag which when I extracted it shows rifling all around maybe 1/8 of an inch onto the bore riding section.( But it did not stick) I am going to see if I can use the factory crimp die to hold it. The check will be about 1/8 inch below the neck which I was always told is a big no but I'm going to try it and see.
I also searched all the posts by Waco over at the Cast bullet site to no avail, I'm a simple man, so may of missed it. But to clear this up in my head, if I take powder coat powder add it to warm water. Then do I mix it or just let it float on top before dipping? Also I am still using Harbor freight red. Will that work? Or I would I need to buy ford blue or that type of powder?

[LeverGunner]

I seated a cast bullet without powder coat/or crimp today and it jammed when it went into the rifling. I tapped it out from the muzzle with a muzzle protector around the rod. It was engraved about 3/8 inch up the bore rider. I then seated the bullet with the seating die turned into the same spot its adjusted for the Speer 170's into a sized case and it seats deeper with the Lee because the ogive is different. I then fed it through the magazine and it fed with just a small amount of drag which when I extracted it shows rifling all around maybe 1/8 of an inch onto the bore riding section.( But it did not stick) I am going to see if I can use the factory crimp die to hold it. The check will be about 1/8 inch below the neck which I was always told is a big no but I'm going to try it and see.
I also searched all the posts by Waco over at the Cast bullet site to no avail, I'm a simple man, so may of missed it. But to clear this up in my head, if I take powder coat powder add it to warm water. Then do I mix it or just let it float on top before dipping? Also I am still using Harbor freight red. Will that work? Or I would I need to buy ford blue or that type of powder?

You let the PC float on the top of the water. I haven't done it, but I retained the info as I have had problems with PC jamming into the rifling on a rifle before. Mine was a Winchester 94 30-30 with the Lee C309-150-F bullet. The bullet worked fine when traditionally lubed.

I would assume this trick will work with any PC, but I can't say for sure.

[LeverGunner]

Took me a minute to find the original thread. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showth ... er+surface

[EdinCT]

Thanks for that information!