Dot optics ?

[4t5]

What color and size do you guys run ? , I want to put one on a mark III .22 lr, this will my first dot sight.
Probably will shoot 50 yds and less , may shoot in plate matches with my son-in-law.
Think I prefer green.

[GunnyMack]

I have a dot on a .22 pistol, had one on an AR and trying one on an air rifle at the moment. All are red

[4t5]

Gunny , what size dots did you get ?

[Bronco]

I like 1 minute dots!
Have three of various makes.

[GunnyMack]

Gunny , what size dots did you get ?

To be honest, I don't know! These dot sites are at least 20yrs old- no idea where the paperwork is for each!

The one I put on my airgun, I believe is a Sightmark( cheapo) and the dot is as big as a chipmunk at 20yards!!

[AJMD429]

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I experimented with one on my Ruger RXM but got the larger size dot (Shield Sights RMSc with 8 moa dot) - Wish I'd gotten a smaller one, and it is also a bit too bright when outside in the sun. Good indoors though. I may wind up putting it on my Ruger Mk3/45. Even with the larger dot, I find I just don't acquire the proper sight picture reflexively; no good if you have to hunt-around for the dot to shoot.

Honestly I decided I prefer my Marble's "Bullseye" setup for pistols as well as carbines - I can acquire them MUCH faster since you start seeing the 'dot' before you're even close to lined-up. (Plus way less cost and more durable).

Honestly I decided I prefer my Marble's "Bullseye/FIresight" setup for pistols as well as carbines - for one thing there is less obstruction of the view versus onventional 'iron' sights...

AfterBullseyeSight-2-2.jpg

AfterBullseyeSight-2.jpg

...and less obstruction of the view versus electronic 'red-dots' (although co-witnessing here is part of the issue)...




The BIGGEST advantage I feel is that you start seeing the 'dot' with the Marble's setup even before you're fully lined up, adding speed to precision.



LInk to that ------> https://levergunscommunity.org/viewtopi ... 3#p1014043

[Ysabel Kid]

I run a red Sig Romeo on my P320 (which still hasn't attacked anyone by itself - weird, huh?). I also run a Holoson green "dot" on my 2011. I prefer the latter - green is easier for me to see in bright daylight conditions. I also like the "reticle" (think scope-like; a circle in a cross) over a simple dot. Easier to pick up and you instinctively just center the circle on what you are shooting.

[AJMD429]

I run a red Sig Romeo on my P320 (which still hasn't attacked anyone by itself - weird, huh?). I also run a Holoson green "dot" on my 2011. I prefer the latter - green is easier for me to see in bright daylight conditions. I also like the "reticle" (think scope-like; a circle in a cross) over a simple dot. Easier to pick up and you instinctively just center the circle on what you are shooting.

I have a big ol' EoTech with a reticle like that - pretty fast to use (but the older EoTech's are huge).

As far as the SIG 320, I think if you check the play between the slide and frame, and make sure the sear/striker engagement is adequate, that would be reassuring. At least that's the way it seems looking at the 'troubleshooting' videos. I do like the Glock design though, where the striker is not fully retracted until you pull the (heavy and gritty) trigger. Better than either though - a nicely tuned 1911...!

[Bill in Oregon]

I've shot the Holosun 507C Green with the 2-minute/32-minute reticle with good results. Green is better for daylight and competition, red for low-light conditions.

[Griff]

I only have one "dot" sight, a 1-6X on an AR. Turn the knob one way & it's green, the other is red... I almost always turn to red. I don't remember the size, maybe .2 mil, but I got the smallest I could find, I had a ½ mil size once, and it seemed like it pretty much covered up whatever I was aiming at.

[Ysabel Kid]

I run a red Sig Romeo on my P320 (which still hasn't attacked anyone by itself - weird, huh?). I also run a Holoson green "dot" on my 2011. I prefer the latter - green is easier for me to see in bright daylight conditions. I also like the "reticle" (think scope-like; a circle in a cross) over a simple dot. Easier to pick up and you instinctively just center the circle on what you are shooting.

I have a big ol' EoTech with a reticle like that - pretty fast to use (but the older EoTech's are huge).

As far as the SIG 320, I think if you check the play between the slide and frame, and make sure the sear/striker engagement is adequate, that would be reassuring. At least that's the way it seems looking at the 'troubleshooting' videos. I do like the Glock design though, where the striker is not fully retracted until you pull the (heavy and gritty) trigger. Better than either though - a nicely tuned 1911...!

Agreed. Though I love my .45's, and have no problem with a double-stack .45, I have become very fond of the 2011 design, especially with the slide-cut for optics. Hard to beat especially with modern defensive 9mm ammo being so good.

[ikocher]

I have somehow managed to put red dots on just about half of what I own with most of what I regularly use having a dot. 3 of 4 of my lever actions have red dots with the exception being a Henry .22. Several of my pistols have them.

On my Ruger MKIII 22/45, I had a Vortex Venom 3 MOA for many years until I switched this year over to a BSA pistol scope for small game hunting. That's a PAC-LITE upper by the way. I left the bull barrel with open sights. For now...

I've ran a Holosun 507K X2 on my primary carry gun for about 4 years now and I like it plenty. That's a red 2 MOA dot but also has an optional "Donut of Death" 32 MOA ring. I just run the dot. I used to regularly pass a required qualification every year and I always used that setup. Once you get good, you can be very fast and accurate.

Regarding color, I mostly run red with only having 1 green. The green should have a shorter battery life due to how LED's work. Red LEDs use less energy to run than green but it won't be an issue for you.

Dot size is important as the smaller the dot, the finer the aiming point. 3 MOA at 100 yards is 3 inches. Most pistol dots run in the 2.5 to 3 MOA range which isn't terrible. I mostly have the smaller sizes but I have an outlier of a Burris FF3 with 8 MOA dot which I don't remember why I got that. I wish it was a 3 but even for what you're doing, the 8 would still work.

If your MKIII is already drilled and tapped, there are dedicated mounts like in the picture. 3 MOA seems fine.

images.jpg

My only complaint about running a dot on a pistol is usually only due to the weight of the pistol and if it's light. That PAC-LITE upper is so lightweight that I can see a lot of jitter or dancing with the dot. I have less issue with a heavier gun. I have also had a dot lose zero when running but that was my fault for not securing the pistol correctly.

There are two emitter types; open and closed. Basically, a closed emitter just means the LED is protected from the elements. Open emitter dots are very common and you'll be fine with an open for this. My 507K carry dot is open and I just clean the inside of the glass every now and then from the lint build up. Don't worry about open or closed unless you're a ninja.

Generally there are 3 battery loading types. Top tray, bottom tray and side tray like on the Holosuns. I have come to really like the side trays that use the 1632 battery. The top tray designs like the older Vortex Venom can come loose. Bottom or under tray designs require you to re-zero but it ends up not being a big deal. That's like the RMR.

I've had good luck with my Vortex Venom, Burris Fast Fire 3 and Holosuns. I wouldn't call any of my dots "duty-grade" but they have been fine for what I need them for. I also have a few "off-brand" units like ADE, CVLife etc that aren't meant for heavy use. I also have 2 Crimson Trace RAD PRO units I'm still testing. I think the window's are just too big and end up with too much parallax shift for my intended use but I'll prove that idea over time. I don't like the ADE's adjustment system. Its a friction thing and not clicks. it's one of the worst dots I have but it's on a .22 rifle so I don't care. I also got it for around $10.

My recommendation is, since .22 is low recoil, you won't need a expensive unit but there are definitely some cheaper units that aren't worth it. Because you are running a Ruger and not a reciprocating slide, you could even get one of the micro dots like a SIG Romeo 5 or similar. There are the usually picatinny rails but there's even direct mounts (look up Ruger MKIII T1 mount) and you'll see what I mean. If you don't like having a dot, you can move it to a rifle or shotgun later on.

Gun.deals has an optics section that can help you find a good deal on a dot and if you know your way around Amazon, there are lots of coupons and codes than can take off large percentages of your cart price if you don't mind Chinese-ium devices.

I hope that helps

[Bullard4075]

Good info!

[4t5]

Thanks

[Paladin]

I like 1 minute dots!
Have three of various makes.

This is the size I prefer and Green