25-35 Ackley Improved

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1972RedNeck
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25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by 1972RedNeck »

I recently picked up a nice 1894 Winchester in 25-35 with the intention of converting it to Ackley Improved.

My question is about brass. According to Ackley's book, post war 25-35 brass won't fire form without rupturing and 30-30 brass is recommended.

Is this still the case or will new Hornady 25-35 brass survive the fire forming process?
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GunnyMack
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by GunnyMack »

Can't answer that question other than only one way to find out.
Regardless of how you approach it the cases still have to be fire formed.
It is a simple process, just chamber a factory load and shoot.
My 257 AI is a snap to fire form and I've been using the original brass I bought in 1992. Yes I've lost a few over the years to neck splits but I attribute that to work hardening over the years. I've begun to anneal necks on everything! I also buy a box or 2 of factory 257 Roberts every few years, due to scarcity brass is tough to find.
Being a rimmed case you shouldn't need to worry about headspace, on the rimless AI cases when setting head space your GO gage is a factory parent case. Just be careful to not cut the barrel shank when reaming the chamber.
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Bill in Oregon
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by Bill in Oregon »

A while back I fooled with a Marlin rebarreled to Francis Sell's .25-35 Tomcat. Using new .25-35 brass, I did get a few neck splits. Probably should have annealed first.
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AJMD429
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by AJMD429 »

GunnyMack wrote: Tue Sep 16, 2025 5:12 pm My 257 AI is a snap to fire form and I've been using the original brass I bought in 1992. Yes I've lost a few over the years to neck splits but I attribute that to work hardening over the years. I've begun to anneal necks on everything! I also buy a box or 2 of factory 257 Roberts every few years, due to scarcity brass is tough to find.
How do you do your case annealing...???

I've seen so many recommendations that vary from a handheld torch and tipping the cases into water after, to needing to buy a fairly expensive machine 'to really do it right'... :|
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GunnyMack
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by GunnyMack »

Doc, I used torch and I just drop into a coffee can of water. I like to dim the lights so I can see the case begin to turn red. I learned that with 25-20 cases to NOT go that hot- I pushed shoulders back seating bullets.
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1972RedNeck
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by 1972RedNeck »

Another question:

I was going to have a gunsmith in the next town over do the conversion as I don't have a barrel vice.

But looking at it I think I could sneak a reamer in the chamber without taking the barrel off.

Any chance I could do it myself?
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GunnyMack
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by GunnyMack »

Yes BUT you will need lots of oil to lubricate the reamer, keep muzzle down so chips and oil can flow away. You'll have to cut slowly to prevent chatter( don't stop in the same spot either) . You will have to be aware as you get close to end of the barrel shank so you don't screw up the head space. And lastly read, watch about chambering to get a better handle on it. It's not difficult just gotta have your wits about you.
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1972RedNeck
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by 1972RedNeck »

Yet another question: will I need to turn the necks if using 30-30 brass?

I currently don't have any neck turning tools...
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ywaltzucanrknrl
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Re: 25-35 Ackley Improved

Post by ywaltzucanrknrl »

You should not have to. If it's one reloading thing I'm not fond of, it's neck turning. I had several tight neck chambers, the last one was a 6BR that Dan Dowling did for me around 1984-----it took me until 2008 to neck turn 100 rounds for the rifle.....
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