Do you think there’s a misalignment problem here?

[Scott Tschirhart]

Maybe to the right?

[Walt]

It looks like your forcing cone is about nonexistent. There's no taper at all.

[JRD]

Is your B/C gap even or perhaps more open on the right?

Then, is your cylinder carrying up properly? If not fully rotated into the locked position the bullet would hit that side of the forcing cone.

Or if the barrel/ cylinder gap is even, and the cylinder carries up, then it could be misaligned. Do you have a plug rod to check alignment?

[Old No7]

Well hey, at least it's to the right -- and not to the LEFT!

Old No7

ps: I have a Brownells' 11-degree forcing cone cutting tool you can borrow if needed; just PM me.
Images below of the one I cleaned up in my Ruger Old Army.

Before:

ROA Forcing Cone 01 before.jpg

After:

ROA Forcing Cone 02 after.jpg

[4t5]

Does each chamber shave lead like that ? Timing issue , if not , a bad cylinder maybe.

[Bronco]

Definitely more deposits on the right !

[Scott Tschirhart]

Does each chamber shave lead like that ? Timing issue , if not , a bad cylinder maybe.

Yes, each chamber.

Funny thing is that it really shoots!

[Scott Tschirhart]

Is your B/C gap even or perhaps more open on the right?

Then, is your cylinder carrying up properly? If not fully rotated into the locked position the bullet would hit that side of the forcing cone.

Or if the barrel/ cylinder gap is even, and the cylinder carries up, then it could be misaligned. Do you have a plug rod to check alignment?

It appears to be uniform and it locks up correctly before the hammer falls.

[Pat C]

Why don't you buy a range rod an see? PTG makes them and highly recommended. Check each chamber . I had the whole revolver chamfering kit at one time . Was cutting forcing cones left and right . Finally got tired of it sold the kit. Now I need it again.

Pacific Tool makes all of the above and must for revolver shooters.

[LeverGunner]

A little side note. Ruger uses a 5º forcing cone. If you do end up cutting the cone for whatever reason, cutting it with an 11º reamer will cause it to have to be deeper, and thus wider at the mouth, making the unsupported portion of the barrel weaker. I don't remember the spec, but the do specify how much meat is supposed to be between the outside of the barrel and the edge of the forcing cone.

[marlinman93]

Have you tried feeler gauges between the cylinder and barrel to see what the gap is? If it's too wide this can result in what you're seeing. But as mentioned I'd like to see at least a little taper to the bore at that area too.

[Bill in Oregon]

Darryl, that forcing cone you cut sure looks purty.