New (used) R92, Janky sling ideas

[LeverNewbie]

First off, thank you for the existence of this forum and the knowledge sharing of the members here.

I just bought a used Rossi R92 in .357 with a 20 inch stainless barrel and a standard loop for $500 at a local pawn shop/gunstore.

R921200by300.jpg

My only real previous experience with lever actions is my Winchester 9422.

So far so good, it cycles my Georgia Arms .38 LRNFP and my .357 158gr JSP. I am getting the occasional hitchup as the .357. I think it is hanging up on the edge of the roll crimp as it rotates into the chamber?

About every 50th round it launches a live .38 off the lifter and out of the action. But not the .357.

Ejected empty cases are tracked by NORAD.

So probably par for the course, no complaints. I guess an ejector spring is in my future. The rest I will wait to see if it smooths out or if I get better at this.

I like a side mounted sling for short handy rifles. Mounting to the rear stock is no problem. Multiple good options.

Now for the fun Janky Engineering Theories of mounting the forward sling point.

Janky Idea 1 - Paracord

r92jank1paracord.jpg

Genius! Paracord fixes everything that duct tape is too elite to tackle. Until it melts.

So, will it melt? Paracord melts at about 450 Farenheit. And this wrap is in tight contact with the barrel.

If I tube dump three time fast with full house .357 is the magic smoke going to come from the top as opposed to front? I honestly don't know.

Thoughts?

Janky Idea 1A - Stainless steel wire rope. About 1/16", takes more than 5 minutes but I can do it.

Janky Idea 2

Stainless hose clamp

Screen Shot 2024-10-29 at 12.19.36 PM.png

That is a stainless hose clamp used in intercoolers for turbos and for exhausts. So no heat concerns.

The theory is that gets attached to the barrel an inch or two forward of the forend to leave room for the forend and barrel band to come off.

It only has about 3mm of play in the clamping range, but inside that range it is excellent. I will have to use a caliper to get it right, which very nearly violates Standard Janky Procedure. $16 for four of them.

The load the clamp can carry is more than you would think.

https://youtu.be/jtMPq2lG-8U?si=ztMMyR2mXcohoZIE&t=699

Project Farm is my spirit animal.

If I have to go the non-janky route, the settup on this rifle looks excellent, but I have questions.
https://levergunscommunity.org/viewtopi ... 28#p685467
That, or something like that.

Option 1. Fire, maybe.
Option 1A. Looks like a bad tattoo.
Option 2. Mario and Luigi head to the Old West
Option 3. Surrender to doing things correctly.

So any and all comments welcome.

[FLINT]

Hello and welcome!

congrats on the Rossi. Hope you enjoy it. I just got a 357 R92 myself and am working out some feeding unpleasantness but otherwise really like it.

you get points for creativity. I'm thinking that the barrel shouldn't get hot enough to melt paracord, but sounds like something easy enough to test. Also, you could switch to a natural fiber like hemp or something and eliminate that problem. I macramae'd a whole belt in the 90's so I"m sure you could make a sweet looking sling.

I'm not a fan of the clamp ideal.

I just did a quick search and there appear to be sources for a front barrel band with sling stud and you can screw in any generic stud into the stock so it seems that would be the easiest solution.

https://shoprossi.com/stocks-forearms/r ... stud-black

let us know what you end up doing

[LeverGunner]

Howdy and welcome. I'd see about having a swivel attachment made onto your barrel band.

If I was going to use paracord for the interim, I'd slip it between the barrel and magazine tube and tie it in a loop.

3x mag dump? nope... you will do 1x mag dump, then have to pry cartridges into the magazine tube for a minute or 2 before the next 1x magazine dump, and so forth. At least until you tune it up.

[FLINT]

in case you aren't aware:

https://store.stevesgunz.com/index.php?main_page=index

lots of good stuff here

[Griff]

Anything that is in contact with your barrel is likely to affect its harmonics, and therefore affect accuracy. This includes those items that are there from the factory, both barrel bands, forend wood, magazine plug screw, etc. Even putting the sling attachment on the rear barrel band will the tension on the barrel. Not to say that having a sling is a right handy way to carry a levergun... But being aware of its potential effect on accuracy and testing for actual affect may save you some missed shots. I have two leverguns with sling attachments on them... a Marlin 375 and a Winchester mdl 94 carbine in .30-30. Neither sling is ever installed. Strictly speaking, this is my opinion... leverguns are nice handy firearms... and as such, they're handiest when "in hand."

[AJMD429]

.
I'd be surprised if Paracord would melt from rifle firing in a levergun.

I had a mount like the one suggested above by FLINT on a Ruger 10/22 and liked it...

https://shoprossi.com/stocks-forearms/r ... stud-black

I MADE a couple over the years for Rossi and Marlin leverguns; I could have saved some time if I knew someone was selling 'em for leverguns...

[JBowen]

Welcome aboard! Hang around here and you will get plenty of good information to get that Rossi all lined out. I have one of the older pre-safety 20 inch carbine
in .357 and a Navy Arms (Rossi) rifle in 44-40 and I thoroughly enjoy them.
Beware, the lever guns seem to multiply!

JBowen

[blackhawk44]

Measure the diameter of you mag tube then go here: https://www.tgrenterprises.com/product/ ... ube-clamp/
Get the screw in sling stud for the butt and whatever swivels you like. I prefer the screw locking type.

[Grizz]

First off, thank you for the existence of this forum and the knowledge sharing of the members here.

I just bought a used Rossi R92 in .357 with a 20 inch stainless barrel and a standard loop for $500 at a local pawn shop/gunstore.

R921200by300.jpg

My only real previous experience with lever actions is my Winchester 9422.

So far so good, it cycles my Georgia Arms .38 LRNFP and my .357 158gr JSP. I am getting the occasional hitchup as the .357. I think it is hanging up on the edge of the roll crimp as it rotates into the chamber?

About every 50th round it launches a live .38 off the lifter and out of the action. But not the .357.

Ejected empty cases are tracked by NORAD.

So probably par for the course, no complaints. I guess an ejector spring is in my future. The rest I will wait to see if it smooths out or if I get better at this.

I like a side mounted sling for short handy rifles. Mounting to the rear stock is no problem. Multiple good options.

Now for the fun Janky Engineering Theories of mounting the forward sling point.

Janky Idea 1 - Paracord

r92jank1paracord.jpg

Genius! Paracord fixes everything that duct tape is too elite to tackle. Until it melts.

So, will it melt? Paracord melts at about 450 Farenheit. And this wrap is in tight contact with the barrel.

If I tube dump three time fast with full house .357 is the magic smoke going to come from the top as opposed to front? I honestly don't know.

Thoughts?

Janky Idea 1A - Stainless steel wire rope. About 1/16", takes more than 5 minutes but I can do it.

Janky Idea 2

Stainless hose clamp

Screen Shot 2024-10-29 at 12.19.36 PM.png

That is a stainless hose clamp used in intercoolers for turbos and for exhausts. So no heat concerns.

The theory is that gets attached to the barrel an inch or two forward of the forend to leave room for the forend and barrel band to come off.

It only has about 3mm of play in the clamping range, but inside that range it is excellent. I will have to use a caliper to get it right, which very nearly violates Standard Janky Procedure. $16 for four of them.

The load the clamp can carry is more than you would think.

https://youtu.be/jtMPq2lG-8U?si=ztMMyR2mXcohoZIE&t=699

Project Farm is my spirit animal.

If I have to go the non-janky route, the settup on this rifle looks excellent, but I have questions.
https://levergunscommunity.org/viewtopi ... 28#p685467
That, or something like that.

Option 1. Fire, maybe.
Option 1A. Looks like a bad tattoo.
Option 2. Mario and Luigi head to the Old West
Option 3. Surrender to doing things correctly.

So any and all comments welcome.

Griff has the right info about barrel and tube attachments. I like the 454 R92 setup, sort of. if it were mine i might use the military type pass thru on the butt, and a sling that ends in a piece of line loosely looped around the barrel about where the forearm ends. use a bowline. disconnected from the rear location it slides forward off of the barrel. i had a sling in the pack, but rarely used it.

[AJMD429]

.
I’ve also got see the type blackhawk44 suggested, top; they work well but on one of them I did I remember the magazine tube rotates if I put stress sideways on the sling, but that seems harmless.

[LeverNewbie]

Thank you all.

Fair warning this post got away from me. I kept running notes as I reviewed refinements to the paracord solution. And now, unfairly, it is you who must suffer.

I am mostly going to sunset all of my earlier janky ideas, and use one or more of the other solutions that you all have proposed. Not sure which.

One more Janky idea has made it on the list though. A saddle ring and a single point sling.

I am going to take some version of the paracord wrap through to testing as an expedient solution. However paracord itself may not be the best rope to use because of heat. And herein lies the part where it got away from me.

TLDR:
I think the best cordage to use for a wrap style either around the barrel or on the magazine tube would be something like this ASR Technora 400lb rope.
https://www.amazon.com/ASR-Outdoor-Tech ... to_dp&th=1

High tensile strength and resistance to heat, abrasion, chemical, and water. A PTFE (Teflon) coating that also makes it more resistant to UV. I wish the 400lb came in tan as opposed to black.

Last Chance to get out
I am about to take you on a long and meandering journey through Material Science and Thermodynamics related to rope that I am completely unqualified in every possible way to lead. And all of the stuff I am about to type comes from what an unqualified person found on the internet.

Our story begins many years ago when I barely passed 11th and 12th grade science. In my defense, both years I sat next to a girl would be a Playmate of the Month three years later. So I remember every single second of my Chemistry and Physics classes. But I am not really sure if we had a teacher or textbooks. Nor if any other students were present. I think I accidentally learned something one day when she was out sick. And no, we never did.

Turns out that mumblymumbly years later I actually could have used some of that information. Or at least been able to learn better.

Technora and Kevlar - Both are Aramids. That ASR rope in the link is Technora. It slightly beat out the available Kevlar ropes because it has a Teflon coating that increases UV protection. UV degradation is one of the main risks for these ropes. Melts near 900F. I have dumped some rounds fast out of high powered rifles before. I do not think I was ever holding a barrel that approached a thousand degrees.

With all of the materials the devil was often in the details of what the manufacturer actually did. A Kevlar rope with polyurethane coating for UV protection has a lower resistance to heat for instance because of the type of PU coating.

Paracord - Made out of Nylon but with different compositions, coatings and sometimes composite construction depending on the manufacturer. Nylon melts at about 450F to 480F depending what you read, but it degrades at a significantly lower temperature.

Natural fibers - Manilla, hemp, sisal, cotton, etc. They don't melt but they do char at 350F. And they degrade and lose strength at lower temperature than that.All of them absorb and retain water. And this water retention is the primary reason I am not going this route. Even with stainless steel they would retain water in contact with the barrel. They have rot risk. They break down in the presence of chemical solvents. This is a bummer because they are the best looking solution and would be 1892 correct.

Fiberglass - Aha! like the rope that is used in the insulation around oven doors. Low abrasion resistance. To solve that many have some abrasion resistant coating which then resurfaces another failure point like UV degradation, chemical resistance, or even rust in the case of wire wrapped. Pass.

HMPE rope - Melts at about 260F, weakens at 176F which actually seems a possible barrel temperature. I have seen rain steam off a high powered rifle barrel that was run hard. This is a shame because HMPE ticks every other box and is priced well.

UHMWPE - Dyneema. Melts at 266F. Not advisable for repeated use at 176F. And that is another bummer because this stuff is insanely strong.

Polypropele/Polyethylene - Low melting point at 330F or 275F. But

Ex Ignorantia et Taedio Nata

And this whole thing is because I don't know how hot the barrel of my .357 R92 will get.

I found DOD studies about how hot M4 and M240 barrels can get. I found a paper that used FLIR to measure the temperature of an AK barrel during a mag dump.

It looks like these rifle barrels could get up to 600F after three 30 round full auto mag dumps. But that really isn't my use case.

So when I can I am going to put some sample cords of paracord, coated Technora and manilla around the barrel of this R92 and see what happens. I also have an infrared temperature measurer. Let's see what that says. It may not be science, but I may still learn something.