Forum rules
Welcome to the Leverguns.Com General Discussions Forum. This is a high-class place so act respectable. We discuss most anything here other than politics... politely.
Please post political post in the new Politics forum.
Sometimes, I think it is beautiful (especially on a 'vintage' firearm), and I know 'back in the day' it was actually just used where parts needed it metallurgically, but I think it looks strange on this Ruger pistol.....
....maybe if they'd done the grip frame, even though it doesn't need it from a metallurgic standpoint (of course neither do the receiver or barrel on that gun)....
Doc,
Back in the day, it was a byproduct of the .005 case hardening that was needed for contact parts. In the 1700's the trigger, sear, and hammer parts were case hardened and manufacturers developed the process further to enhance the overall "look" by adding carbon of different sorts.
It was a time consuming process that added cost and time and was gradually fazed out as manufacturing costs soared, especiallly after the war.
It is done now by the cottage industry to make money to differentiate from the factory norm and add "zeal" so guys can show off their goodies.
To me, it only impresses me on an 1886 Winchester or a Colt SAA......and maybe a nice old Marlin .---6
Back when I was at TSJC taking the gunsmith course we did color case in house. Some great success and some failures!
To get the best colors bone charcoal must be used. We used cow bone charcoal. One of the instructors told of human bone from a mass grave ( India I think) was used by I believe Westly Richards at one point and the colors were just amazing!
As for the process it's quite simple BUT thin parts are always an issue to warp and twist. I color cased a Mauser 98 and the rear bridge twisted when we quenched it. Bolt would not go back in. We tried to twist it back. Then the instructor walks up with a 4 lbs lump hammer and whacked it! The rear left bridge cracked relieving the twist. So back in the over to anneal, weld and then out of house to have it re heat treated. That is probably why the frame on that Ruger is not color cased!
I love color casehardening, but when I saw that in their newsletter I thought it was ugly. Beyond ugly, I also wondered how they casehardened a barrel and didn't hurt the bore?
There are some very talented folks that can mimic case colors with a torch. I know of one guy, but the shop he works at will not provide any details other then he does a fantastic job.
As for hardening inside the bore it shouldn't really matter.
GunnyMack wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:48 am
There are some very talented folks that can mimic case colors with a torch. I know of one guy, but the shop he works at will not provide any details other then he does a fantastic job.
As for hardening inside the bore it shouldn't really matter.
Hardening the bore surface doesn't matter, but it's the temperatures used in casehardening, and how they affect the metal. I've had enough parts casehardened to know the metal moves when heated to 1400 degrees to get those colors. I've gotten receivers back from casehardening and had to refit the barrel that was a perfect fit prior to casehardening, as it wouldn't come into correct timing or headspace. Believe me, it does matter, and it will change dimensions.
You are right marlinman as I saw the same thing when doing it. Dimensions change and things twist but as for the bore, maybe they are boring it after heat treat? Not sure if that's a Ruger custom shop or after market...
I wondered about the barrels when I got the email showing this product. I contemplated sending an email and asking, but then decided I wasn't interested anyway, so why waste their time to find out if it was a Ruger barrel, or aftermarket barrel, rifled after CCH was done.
I love the look of a well done color case hardening. I have been seeing it on different things lately. Some I like and some not so much. I don't think the Ruger looks bad but I have never seen it on a barrel before.
Ah-ha! Now that I read about it via the link attached this has an aluminum frame, can't case harden that!
Also the MSRP from Turnbull is $30 higher then a regular run of the mill Mk IV.
So it's not an after market barrel or getting any machining!
It could be done at home IF
You buy a supply on bone charcoal
You have a furnace that will get up to at least 1400F
You have an air tight crucible
You have a large tank of water to quench in
You also need tooling to hold the piece so that it can't warp during treatment.
Years ago, my table at the Wanamacher was next to Turnbull's. Just the father and son back then and the only case they had perfected mimicked the old Marlins. Beautiful stuff.
M. M. Wright, Sheriff, Green county Arkansas (1860)
Currently living my eternal life.
NRA Life
SASS
ITSASS
M. M. Wright wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:27 am
You also need tooling to hold the piece so that it can't warp during treatment.
Years ago, my table at the Wanamacher was next to Turnbull's. Just the father and son back then and the only case they had perfected mimicked the old Marlins. Beautiful stuff.
Warpage can occur, but there's no tooling required to hold a receiver or parts, unless it's extremely thin. I've watched great gun restoration people do it, and they do install all receiver pieces together, so it helps hold it's shape without blocking. They use sacrificial screws to hold the parts together. They also use plates a certain distance from parts to create the swirled case colors. The factories used multiple receivers to shield, and just end plates for the outside pieces. Many heavier parts need nothing to hold their shape, and just shielding to get the colors.