Best cold blue avaiable

Paul Jenkins · Post by **Paul Jenkins** » Fri May 16, 2008 12:03 am

Gentlemen,
What in your opinion is the most durable cold blue? Mostly for shotgun slides and barrels

gamekeeper · Post by **gamekeeper** » Fri May 16, 2008 2:20 am

I have just reblued the mag tube on my 9422M with Hoppe's 9 Gun Blue.
I can't say yet how durable it will be but it came out really well and looks identical in color to my other 9422 mag tube.

Jaguarundi · Post by **Jaguarundi** » Fri May 16, 2008 2:53 am

Mark Lee's Express blue carried by Brownellshttp://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... %20BLUE%20.But you well need a tank capable of boiling water(Hot blue tank-stainless) for the plugged barrel actions.Baldur Buffer with SS wirewheel will speed up the carding.This solution used by many top custom bolt rifle builders.

TedH · Post by **TedH** » Fri May 16, 2008 5:57 am

The best cold blue that I've used is Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. I reblued a 95 Mauser project rifle and it looks great. That's been a couple years ago, and it's showing no signs of wear.

Pisgah · Post by **Pisgah** » Fri May 16, 2008 8:21 am

I keep Oxpho-Blue, .44-40, and Birchwood-Casey Perma Blue on hand. Why all three? I find that often when one won't work well on a particular gun, one of the others will. There is enough difference in the formulas and the steels involved that it can make a BIG difference.

gary rice · Post by **gary rice** » Fri May 16, 2008 9:18 pm

Paul Jenkins wrote:Gentlemen,
What in your opinion is the most durable cold blue? Mostly for shotgun slides and barrels

some will disagree with me and everyone has different results. i tried oxpho blue and it's very easy to apply and does a good job. you dont even have to remove oil from the surface to apply it. my only complaint was that it didnt give me a dark enough blue as it was more of a charcoal color. i tried blue wonder and the color came out almost like a factory blue job for me anyway. even did a cresent buttplate with it and it looks real close to a hot blue job.

Comal Forge · Post by **Comal Forge** » Fri May 16, 2008 9:28 pm

I like Oxpho above all others - leaves a very durable and dark coating. It is actually a commercial blackening product for industrial use, although Brownell's sells it for the tough jobs. It's especially good on bead blasted finishes but for a polished finish, I think it's best to have the steel chemically clean as oil does slow the reaction.

Even though it's a cold blue, it also helps to warm the steel a little and immerse it in the solution. It works quite well on pistols and small pieces to boil the parts in water then go straight to bluing. I buy Oxpho by the gallon and cut it with a gallon of distilled water, then I pour the mixture in a tub and immerse the piece. This will produce a smut residue that will drop out of solution but the mix will keep and work for a very long time before it needs replenishing.

Mike Hunter · Post by **Mike Hunter** » Sat May 17, 2008 9:16 am

Iâ€™m not a big fan of cold blues, kind of like repainting your car with a spray can, it can be done, and some can do a good job, but itâ€™s not really the way to go.

Most cause more problems than they are worth i.e... After rust. And even the best seem to turn brown after a few years.

There seems to be two basic formulations for cold blues; Copper Sulphate and selenous acid, even the new â€œRevolutionaryâ€

Comal Forge · Post by **Comal Forge** » Sat May 17, 2008 10:37 am

"After-rust" can definitely happen with cold blues. I got around that by dipping in water that has baking soda dissolved in it. The baking soda kills the etch then rinse in fresh water and spray with WD40 to remove the water.

Henry McCann · Post by **Henry McCann** » Sat May 17, 2008 11:48 am

I have had very good luck with Van's Instant Gun Blue.

Best cold blue avaiable

Best cold blue avaiable

Re: Best cold blue avaiable