...30wcf.
I got it home the other day. You can tell it's a post 64 but hey, I'll give it a chance.
16rds of Remington corelokt said all is not well. It was shooting bad, so bad that a zero was hard to find!
Back at home I did my thing I now do with all Winchester 94 models, relieve the eye!
Next was to get the copper out of the barrel. Also, a close inspection of the crown revealed a ding so I polished the crown.
Today I got four rounds off before the rain came in. Each shot responded to a sight shift and whallop. Further testing will resume forth with.
Now I need expert advice. The fore wood creeps forward creating a gap! What is the fix? Peining the barrel slot front side?
Thank you.
N.
Circa 1966 94.....
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Circa 1966 94.....
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Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!
Re: Circa 1966 94.....
I would pull off the forearm and add some carpentry putty with some cautious sanding. I never said I am any good at restoration.
D. Brian Casady
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Quid Llatine Dictum Sit, Altum Viditur.
Advanced is being able to do the basics while your leg is on fire---Bill Jeans
Don't ever take a fence down until you know why it was put up---Robert Frost
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Re: Circa 1966 94.....
.
It looks to be too much distance needed to do it with peening.
If you could do it without the modified part being visible that would be the nicest cosmetic result, and I believe you could fairly easily fabricate the piece that goes into the dovetail that's threaded, using thick sheet metal or solid stock that you use a round file to make the barrel clearance in. Once you have that piece then relocating the screw holes the appropriate distance to the rear would move your forend rearward, and there would be no visible putty, no alteration to the wood, and no alteration to the forend band.
Obviously a machinist could make the part for you, but I really think that's a part that I would be comfortable making as long as I had some piece of metal to work with, a hacksaw to get it to rough shape if it's solid stock, or a vice and a hammer to bend it if I used sheet metal, and a vice to hold it while I did the filing, a good flat file and round file if needed. Locating the holes would be the trickiest part, but I think if you installed the piece, and then slipped on the wood and the barrel band, you could use a punch to locate your holes by dimpling the fabricated piece, and it should work well.
It would be a simple enough piece to make that if you messed up the first one you wouldn't have lost much other than a couple hours of time, and none of this would alter the exterior appearance or function of the firearm.
It looks to be too much distance needed to do it with peening.
If you could do it without the modified part being visible that would be the nicest cosmetic result, and I believe you could fairly easily fabricate the piece that goes into the dovetail that's threaded, using thick sheet metal or solid stock that you use a round file to make the barrel clearance in. Once you have that piece then relocating the screw holes the appropriate distance to the rear would move your forend rearward, and there would be no visible putty, no alteration to the wood, and no alteration to the forend band.
Obviously a machinist could make the part for you, but I really think that's a part that I would be comfortable making as long as I had some piece of metal to work with, a hacksaw to get it to rough shape if it's solid stock, or a vice and a hammer to bend it if I used sheet metal, and a vice to hold it while I did the filing, a good flat file and round file if needed. Locating the holes would be the trickiest part, but I think if you installed the piece, and then slipped on the wood and the barrel band, you could use a punch to locate your holes by dimpling the fabricated piece, and it should work well.
It would be a simple enough piece to make that if you messed up the first one you wouldn't have lost much other than a couple hours of time, and none of this would alter the exterior appearance or function of the firearm.
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Re: Circa 1966 94.....
This discussion might (?) help: https://www.levergunscommunity.org/view ... ip#p120581
Re: Circa 1966 94.....
I'd say the crown will fix your accuracy issue Nath.
I have a pre-64 with that same forend issue (thanks for the reminder). It has a square slot in the barrel for the band screw instead of the little concave slot. Another example of a cost cutting operation. I'm thinking a little JB Weld or solder to fill it, then make the correct cut for the screw.
Best of luck with your project. Both my son and I have 94s made in 68 that we use for Jeep and hard use carbines. In spite of all the stories, they shoot and have held up very well.
I have a pre-64 with that same forend issue (thanks for the reminder). It has a square slot in the barrel for the band screw instead of the little concave slot. Another example of a cost cutting operation. I'm thinking a little JB Weld or solder to fill it, then make the correct cut for the screw.
Best of luck with your project. Both my son and I have 94s made in 68 that we use for Jeep and hard use carbines. In spite of all the stories, they shoot and have held up very well.
"Oh bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round.
Re: Circa 1966 94.....
Thanks for you replies everyone.
I'm going to fit something in the slot to restrict forward movement.
I'm going to fit something in the slot to restrict forward movement.
Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!
Re: Circa 1966 94.....
I have managed to arrest the fore grip via packing the holes in the wood behind the barrel band. It has worked out acceptable.
It looks like I have a load too. 29 grns of Vit n135.
I only loaded four and shot them at a small cinder block probably about 8" tall by 5" wide.
The Remington factory ammo missed the block, maybe me but the second destroyed it. I put another block up and went back a hundred yards and loaded the reloads. Loaded with a PPU 150gn bullet I shot three first. All three were hitting just underneath the block so for the final shot, all off hand too I lifted the front sight in the notch and shot the final test load smack into the center of the block. It is hot today also and the barrel got very hot but it still shot well.
I think one more click on the elevator should get them on target.
About the bullet they seem quite slick in shape. The exposed lead interferes with the Lee bullet seating die so I opened the internal mandrill so it now seats via the bullets ogive instead of the tip.
Quite pleased.
I have intel of a store having one box of Speer 130gn flat points. I will try and get them soon.
After shooting a very low bird appeared, an Avro Lancaster! A rare sight today for sure.
It looks like I have a load too. 29 grns of Vit n135.
I only loaded four and shot them at a small cinder block probably about 8" tall by 5" wide.
The Remington factory ammo missed the block, maybe me but the second destroyed it. I put another block up and went back a hundred yards and loaded the reloads. Loaded with a PPU 150gn bullet I shot three first. All three were hitting just underneath the block so for the final shot, all off hand too I lifted the front sight in the notch and shot the final test load smack into the center of the block. It is hot today also and the barrel got very hot but it still shot well.
I think one more click on the elevator should get them on target.
About the bullet they seem quite slick in shape. The exposed lead interferes with the Lee bullet seating die so I opened the internal mandrill so it now seats via the bullets ogive instead of the tip.
Quite pleased.
I have intel of a store having one box of Speer 130gn flat points. I will try and get them soon.
After shooting a very low bird appeared, an Avro Lancaster! A rare sight today for sure.
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Psalm ch8.
Because I wish I could!
Because I wish I could!