My Sharps family:
M1878 Sharps-Borchardt, .45-2 7/8 (left the factory 12/31/1878, refurbished in 1998)
Shiloh Sharps #1 Sporter, .45-2.4” (AKA .45-90)
Shiloh-Sharps #1 Sporter, .45-2.4 (25 lbs. bench rifle with MVA 6x ‘scope)
M1874 Business Rifle, .45-2.1” (45-70 Gov’t.)
M1874 Business Rifle, .50- 1 ¾” (50-70 Gov’t.)
For what it is worth --you might find some of this useful:
Powder: Old Eynsford 1.5 Fg drop tubed into the case, ignited by a CCI-BR-2 primer.
Bullets: 1:30 paper patch. Ladle cast from Steve Brooks’s nose pour weight adjustable moulds. The .45 is a straight sided bullet with a flat base; .50 slight taper and a cup base. Paper patching cut from Office Depot translucent tracing paper 25 lbs weight (item #253-342).
Bullet seating: about 1/8” or so into case after compressing power via a powder compression die and then adding the wad stack (.060” thick wad + 3/16” lube disc + .060” wad). For the. 50-70, I use .030” thick wads. Lube disc is DGL lube. A slight taper crimp holds them in place.
The above loading procedure is from Martin Rywell’s “Sharps Rifle: the Gun That Shaped American Destiny.” It is basically what the Sharps Rifle Company recommended for target shooting. Hunting ammunition is similar. This book, US$11.00, is sold by Shiloh-Sharps and is a treasure trove of information.
https://shilohrifle.com/accessories/boo ... n-destiny/
Cleaning: between rounds with 2 damp cotton balls, followed by 1 to dry the bore. I don’t blow tube as in my experience, cleaning between rounds gives better accuracy for my shooting.
The Borchardt and the heavy #1 Sporter .45-2.4” have 34 inch barrels. In my shooting experience I find that a very good lube combined with good fouling control are necessary with barrels longer than 30” as fouling seems to build up in the longer barrels. Other shooters have told me they experienced the same. Also have a Lone Star 32” barrel .45-2.1” rolling block and again, fouling can/will build up in the last 2” or so.
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