Tomahawks?
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Tomahawks?
I used a Cold Steel tomahawk this year to help clean a hog and I think it makes the job much easier and it is well worth the extra weight.
Tell me about your favorite tomahawk/hatchet and tell me why.....I need to pick one up for myself. I have a Vietnam style hawk that is more of a weapon than a tool and it is just too light. Nice, but not what I need.
Thanks in advance.
Tell me about your favorite tomahawk/hatchet and tell me why.....I need to pick one up for myself. I have a Vietnam style hawk that is more of a weapon than a tool and it is just too light. Nice, but not what I need.
Thanks in advance.
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I also am interested in getting one as a camp tool, etc. Any info on sharpening, durability of the edge, effectiveness on wood, etc. would be much appreciated, as well as design preferences and suppliers. Thanks!
"Pistols do not win wars, but they save the lives of the men who do. The noble 1911 is a mechanical marvel, whose ruggedness, dependability & ferocious power have comforted four issues of GIs and which, unlike any other instrument you can name, is as much superior to its rivals today as it was in 1917."
-Col. Jeff Cooper, 1968
-Col. Jeff Cooper, 1968
I bought a Cold Steel Rifleman's hawk 2 yrs ago. I stripped the black paint off and blued it. I sharpened it w/ a broadhead sharpener and use a diamond stone to re sharpen it. It shaves no problem. I've used it camping in the north woods of N Wisconsin, camping in Canada and now Alaska. It's defenitly a great survival tool. Had a saddle maker in San Angelo TX make a custom case for it too. They're great tools, They are merged w/ American Tomahawk CO.
BILLY JACK
BILLY JACK
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I have a Lagana tomahawk (same guy who designed the original Vietnam tomahawk)that I have used and abused for a few years now. I keep it attached to my pack when I am out. It does a number on dressing deer and elk. It also has a fiberglass handle that is tuff as nails. I only wish it had a hammer on the other side instead of a spike. I haven't found use for the spike but the sun ain't down yet. However I really do like the gerber hatchets. They are strong as hell and you can use the backside as a hammer. The handle is also fiberglass and tuff. Since the handle is hollow on the Gerber, it allows me to keep a small file inside that I have used to keep it sharp. There is also a swedish flint in the handle. I know it would not fit in with SASS or CAS crowd, but you can't beat the function.
Last edited by Mich Hunter on Sun May 04, 2008 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
- lever-4-life
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I collect axes, They are about the scariest thing that can be bought and sold in cali , anyway I compete (rarely win) in lumberjack contests where axe use is big. I have a custom throwing axe from sweden That gets alot of use, and then my chopping axe for the contests. but the ones I use the most are the Eastwing hatchets and camp axes. They hold an edge very good and are dutiable, Two things you want in the woods!
Break on through to the other side!!!
I've used H&B Forge hawks in the past, a couple different sizes, but the smallest size is too small and light to be practical. They used to be carried by Dixie Gun Works. I havent butchered any with them, but they made decent light camp axes.
FWIW, In reading a National Geographic magazine years ago, they showed things recovered from a shipwreck in the NE states, maybe on the Canadian border, from back in revolutionary times I believe. among the items recovered were Boarding Axes, with a notch just ahead of the handle on the underside of the blade. As I understood it, they were standard equipment on ships of the period, with the handles in from the top, and a tapered handle, similar to a pick, and were used to board ships by force, the under curve of the blade facilitating hooking over the rail as you came over, and allowing the weapon to be in hand, and help you board another ship, the reverse taper would keep the handle from pulling out under the strain.......the picture was a hawk, a tool aparently borrowed from maritime duty for backwoods use.
FWIW, In reading a National Geographic magazine years ago, they showed things recovered from a shipwreck in the NE states, maybe on the Canadian border, from back in revolutionary times I believe. among the items recovered were Boarding Axes, with a notch just ahead of the handle on the underside of the blade. As I understood it, they were standard equipment on ships of the period, with the handles in from the top, and a tapered handle, similar to a pick, and were used to board ships by force, the under curve of the blade facilitating hooking over the rail as you came over, and allowing the weapon to be in hand, and help you board another ship, the reverse taper would keep the handle from pulling out under the strain.......the picture was a hawk, a tool aparently borrowed from maritime duty for backwoods use.
Haven't taken it out yet, but this is an eBay find ($20) that
I refit the head to (snug fit and aligned with handle axis),
stained and wrapped the handle in tea stained cotton cord.
Cord was then coated with rubber cement (can't tell it's there
unless you see my overrun on the handle), trimmed length
top and bottom and will use this for my camp tool once I
sharpen it.
I refit the head to (snug fit and aligned with handle axis),
stained and wrapped the handle in tea stained cotton cord.
Cord was then coated with rubber cement (can't tell it's there
unless you see my overrun on the handle), trimmed length
top and bottom and will use this for my camp tool once I
sharpen it.
KI6WZU
NRA member
"When they call the roll in the Senate, the Senators do not know whether to answer 'present' or 'not guilty.'"
--President Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919)
“Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner”
NRA member
"When they call the roll in the Senate, the Senators do not know whether to answer 'present' or 'not guilty.'"
--President Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919)
“Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner”
My belt axe was hand forged by a local guy and fitted with wood (cherry) to match custom made .54 Flintlock. I have used it on eight deer and numerous critters and around camp chores, or clearing brush. I had a custom shoulder strap/cover made for it and it goes pretty much where ever I go out into the woods. Its an essential part of my outdoor gear. Here it is with my black powder kit:
[img][img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20 ... 94/011.jpg[/img][/img]
[img][img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20 ... 94/011.jpg[/img][/img]
Mike Johnson,
"Only those who will risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Eliot
"Only those who will risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go." T.S. Eliot
...ScottT:
...Check out Snow & Nealley's Penobscot Bay Kindling Axe. A quality axe, made in USA, with 18" handle, and a 1 & 3/4 lb. head. They can be found at - www.lehmans.com -Type in "axes" in the "search" box.
...old goat
...Check out Snow & Nealley's Penobscot Bay Kindling Axe. A quality axe, made in USA, with 18" handle, and a 1 & 3/4 lb. head. They can be found at - www.lehmans.com -Type in "axes" in the "search" box.
...old goat
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I have several axes and tomahawks in my collection. I own one hand forged mouse hawk made by a Maine blacksmith I met on rendezvous one time. It has a small head with a three inch cutting edge. You can throw it but it was made for butchering game . I have another mouse hawk that has been cast and has a striped handle. It is more for show and decoration.
One of my favorite hawks was made by a Pennsylvania blacksmith. When I was a teenager black powder was starting to become all the rage and so I was tickled pink when on a family camping trip we found a black powder shop in North Central PA. It is what one calls a squaw hawk. The blade is more square and suited for everyday work. It also throws very well. I have had it all these years and it sits on my window sill with a collection of other stuff.
I have a cast throwing hawk that hits the butt almost every time. I do have a chip out of the blade but this one doesn't get a lot of use.
I have another cast hawk . Silver forge made a nice squaw type of hawk that looks really slick. I bought it more for show and haven't used it for throwing.
When it comes to axes I have a Snow and Nealy kindling axe I keep in the truck. That thing comes in very handy for a lot of light work that seems to crop up on me now and then.
One of my favorite hawks was made by a Pennsylvania blacksmith. When I was a teenager black powder was starting to become all the rage and so I was tickled pink when on a family camping trip we found a black powder shop in North Central PA. It is what one calls a squaw hawk. The blade is more square and suited for everyday work. It also throws very well. I have had it all these years and it sits on my window sill with a collection of other stuff.
I have a cast throwing hawk that hits the butt almost every time. I do have a chip out of the blade but this one doesn't get a lot of use.
I have another cast hawk . Silver forge made a nice squaw type of hawk that looks really slick. I bought it more for show and haven't used it for throwing.
When it comes to axes I have a Snow and Nealy kindling axe I keep in the truck. That thing comes in very handy for a lot of light work that seems to crop up on me now and then.
Gransfors Bruks makes a Hunter's Axe, that while a bit larger than a typical tomahawk, is specifically intended for dressing game animals, with a poll specific for the task. They are also very beautifully rugged in appearance.
Have Colts, will travel.
The avatar is the menuki of my Rob Douglas Wakisashi.
The avatar is the menuki of my Rob Douglas Wakisashi.
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Local blacksmith friend of mine has made several versions for me, My favorite is an ulu/camp ax that has a tapered handle at the head so the head pops of fwith a rap or two on the butt end. The ulu is the single best tool there is for the skinner! The second in a large hawk with a 5" brain spike... For close encounters with the worst kind!
I throw hawks, knives, and double bit axes for fun and that little marbles(1/2 scale) double bit ax is a hoot...
I throw hawks, knives, and double bit axes for fun and that little marbles(1/2 scale) double bit ax is a hoot...
Overkill, When is dead not DEAD enough!
AKA- Raffica=(Full Auto or Burst)
AKA- Raffica=(Full Auto or Burst)
I had a chance to use my buddy's Gerber Pack Axe while field dressing and quartering a couple deer, almost could have done the whole job with just the axe and skipped the knife. It also works good for light brush clearing but is limited on heavier work by it short handle, naturally. A short tomahawk might make a great camp/ game dressing tool. I asked for and received a Woodsman's Pal for Christmas one year. Sometimes I think it is too much of a compromise; neither fish nor fowl. It's too short to be a good machete, too light to be a good axe, and you can't really use it as a hammer. It's good to have around if you've got nothing else, but it's just not as handy as I thought it would be. My brother gave me an Estwing hatchet with the stacked leather handle which I find very handy for small chores and camp use. I haven't tried for dressing large game.
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I make my own 'hawks - either from folding a piece of mild steel, forge welding it together and inserting a piece of high carbon in the bit - or forge the whole thing from a piece of high carbon. My current one was made about 10 years ago from a large air hammer bit.
If I were buying one, I'd probably get an Estwing as they are practically unbreakable.
I also agree with you about using on game - they are indispensable for busting a pelvis or taking off a leg (although a good butcher's cleaver will do the same).
Edited: 5/4/08; 6:30p
http://img109.mytextgraphics.com/photol ... izj05.jpeg
Old Law Dawg,
Here you go. This is the one I keep at home. Just a working hawk made from an air chisel bit so it was split and drifted. Very sharp - can shave with it right after honing.
My sons have some of the other ones I've made so this is the only pic available. The few I've sold are long gone but hopefully, they are still in use.
If I were buying one, I'd probably get an Estwing as they are practically unbreakable.
I also agree with you about using on game - they are indispensable for busting a pelvis or taking off a leg (although a good butcher's cleaver will do the same).
Edited: 5/4/08; 6:30p
http://img109.mytextgraphics.com/photol ... izj05.jpeg
Old Law Dawg,
Here you go. This is the one I keep at home. Just a working hawk made from an air chisel bit so it was split and drifted. Very sharp - can shave with it right after honing.
My sons have some of the other ones I've made so this is the only pic available. The few I've sold are long gone but hopefully, they are still in use.
Last edited by Comal Forge on Sun May 04, 2008 6:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
BTW..I convexed the edge on this skinning axe. that makes the edge much more durable and will stay sharp much longer. All my hunting knives have convexed blades. the best way to do a convexed edge is to send your axe or knife to Mike Stuwart at BKRT..he will conves the edge for you. when you get it back you can shave with it..to keep the edge shaving sharp I use a two sided leather strop that I conditioned with some of Mikes stropping compound..the black and green. if the edge becomes to dull for the stropping compound to work, I use some 1000-2000 grit sand paper..I lay the sandpaper on a mouse pad and sharpen it like you would a knife..It only takes a few passes on the sand paper before you switch to the strop and compound..I recomend the two sided strops from leevalley.com. they also have the stropping compound...
I can't sharpen a beveled egde to save my life. But I can keep a Convexed blade atom splitting sharp..
At one time almost every knife and axe came with convexed edges..however you can't mass produce a convexed edge very well, it has to be done by hand.
Once you use one you'll never go back to beveled edges..
I can keep my convexed edge shaving sharp in the woods simple by stropping the edge on my belt or my pants leg..
If you guys want more info on Barkriver knives check out the website or the fourm on knifefourm.com.
I can't sharpen a beveled egde to save my life. But I can keep a Convexed blade atom splitting sharp..
At one time almost every knife and axe came with convexed edges..however you can't mass produce a convexed edge very well, it has to be done by hand.
Once you use one you'll never go back to beveled edges..
I can keep my convexed edge shaving sharp in the woods simple by stropping the edge on my belt or my pants leg..
If you guys want more info on Barkriver knives check out the website or the fourm on knifefourm.com.
Last edited by Savage99 on Sun May 04, 2008 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Robert....
Chance favors the prepared mind....
Chance favors the prepared mind....
My Estwing takes an edge better than anything else, I have.nemhed wrote: My brother gave me an Estwing hatchet with the stacked leather handle which I find very handy for small chores and camp use. I haven't tried for dressing large game.
"The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
- kimwcook
- Advanced Levergunner
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I just took these;
The top one is made from a carpenter's axe. I just ground away what didnt look like a hawk. It's a hammer poll, not a pipehawk.
The second one with the spike is forged from a small ball pien hammer. It's wicked sharp and light, a perfect fighting hawk but worthless in my opinion for much more.
Both are hafted with hickory. If there's one thing I'd immediately change it would be using a hawk haft eye drift to open up the haft eye to mount a traditional teardropped haft.
The top one is made from a carpenter's axe. I just ground away what didnt look like a hawk. It's a hammer poll, not a pipehawk.
The second one with the spike is forged from a small ball pien hammer. It's wicked sharp and light, a perfect fighting hawk but worthless in my opinion for much more.
Both are hafted with hickory. If there's one thing I'd immediately change it would be using a hawk haft eye drift to open up the haft eye to mount a traditional teardropped haft.
Old Law Dawg
Another thread digressed into pictures of aircraft. So I'll hijack this one for a minute, and show my favorite Tomahawk.
Jeepnik AKA "Old Eyes"
"Go low, go slow and preferably in the dark" The old Sarge (he was maybe 24.
"Freedom is never more that a generation from extinction" Ronald Reagan
"Every man should have at least one good rifle and know how to use it" Dad
"Go low, go slow and preferably in the dark" The old Sarge (he was maybe 24.
"Freedom is never more that a generation from extinction" Ronald Reagan
"Every man should have at least one good rifle and know how to use it" Dad
I have several hand axes from a tomahawk copy to a Fiskars hatchet (same as the Gerber) and the cheap varieties in between. I also have a Woodman's Pal.
As you can see I use my personalized Woodman's Pal...
I think the hatchets, depending on blade geometry, are better for some tasks like splitting kindling, splitting a deer's pelvis, hammering anything, cutting a hole in pond ice, or cutting down larger trees. The Pal is best on fence lines, limbing up to 2" diameter limbs, QUIETLY clearing a shooting lane (the hook is pulled and is quieter). The standard machete as a tool is more limited but the heavier machetes, especially those with longer than 18" blades, are better weapons (if it comes to that).
Yep, I've got some machetes, too!
Remember, whatever you stick a blade into you must also remove the blade from. Some blade designs make that difficult on some materials.
As you can see I use my personalized Woodman's Pal...
I think the hatchets, depending on blade geometry, are better for some tasks like splitting kindling, splitting a deer's pelvis, hammering anything, cutting a hole in pond ice, or cutting down larger trees. The Pal is best on fence lines, limbing up to 2" diameter limbs, QUIETLY clearing a shooting lane (the hook is pulled and is quieter). The standard machete as a tool is more limited but the heavier machetes, especially those with longer than 18" blades, are better weapons (if it comes to that).
Yep, I've got some machetes, too!
Remember, whatever you stick a blade into you must also remove the blade from. Some blade designs make that difficult on some materials.
Sincerely,
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
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Hey, I like edged weapons, they're always loaded. I have an SOG Vietnam style tomahawk that I broke the wood handle on, so I WELDED, yes Welded a 3/4" piece of cold roll to the head that was split and wrapped around the shank of the head, and welded up solid. I also have an SOG battle axe that sees alot of use.
SASS#43836
Ain't easy havin' pals.
Ain't easy havin' pals.
That's what I use.Rexster
Levergunner 2.0
Joined: 13 Sep 2007
Posts: 172
Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 6:14 am Post subject:
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Gransfors Bruks makes a Hunter's Axe, that while a bit larger than a typical tomahawk, is specifically intended for dressing game animals, with a poll specific for the task. They are also very beautifully rugged in appearance.
http://www.boundarywaterscatalog.com/br ... 4,750.html
I haven't found a better way yet.
Scott,
I really like the Cold Steel tomahawk. I've got the lighter one, and I find it to be real handy on game. It's not too good for wood, and isn't supposed to be used for such, but it does the job on bone just fine. For a little heavier duty all purpose hatchet I think the Easwing is a good brand. It holds an edge pretty well and you can use it for light duty firewood work around camp.
I really like the Cold Steel tomahawk. I've got the lighter one, and I find it to be real handy on game. It's not too good for wood, and isn't supposed to be used for such, but it does the job on bone just fine. For a little heavier duty all purpose hatchet I think the Easwing is a good brand. It holds an edge pretty well and you can use it for light duty firewood work around camp.
"If ye love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest for freedom, go home from us in peace. We seek not your counsel, nor your arms. Crouch down and lick the hand that feeds you; and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen" - Samuel Adams
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I routinely have used a small hawk for splitting deer/antelope rib cages and small camp chores. My favorites is a one made by Tom Ridge and another by Joe De La Ronde.
I have several custom/blacksmith made hawks around the house, several are hanging as western decor around the house. So, while vistors think oh how cute with the small tomahawks on the wall, I think I am never far from really good edged weapon.
I have several custom/blacksmith made hawks around the house, several are hanging as western decor around the house. So, while vistors think oh how cute with the small tomahawks on the wall, I think I am never far from really good edged weapon.
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I use the axes and hatchets made by Gerber. They come sharper than their knives. They are, quite literally, "shaving sharp"! Great for meat, a little fragile for wood.
Hunter Ed. instructor
NRA Basic pistol Inst.
NRA Personal protection inst.
NRA Range safety officer
Blessed is the man that walketh not in the counsel of the ungodly, nor standeth in the way of sinners, nor sitteth in the seat of the scornful. But his delight is in the law of the LORD; and in his law doth he meditate day and night. Psalm 1
NRA Basic pistol Inst.
NRA Personal protection inst.
NRA Range safety officer
Blessed is the man that walketh not in the counsel of the ungodly, nor standeth in the way of sinners, nor sitteth in the seat of the scornful. But his delight is in the law of the LORD; and in his law doth he meditate day and night. Psalm 1
- deerwhacker444
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Back when I used to shoot Rendezvous I carried an H & B tomahawk, Shawnee model. Worked great and split countless #'s of competitors handles.....
H & B Forge
H & B Forge
"If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men
shall possess the highest seats in Government,
our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots
to prevent its ruin." Samuel Adams
shall possess the highest seats in Government,
our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots
to prevent its ruin." Samuel Adams
Perhaps I should mention, that while I have merely handled and admired the Hunter's Axe made by Gransfors Bruks, I actually own, and have used, their Small Forest Axe a bit for tree trimming around the yard. I have their Wildlife Hatchet, too, but thus far have used the bigger axe for actual work. Really cool is the Bearded Axe, which I keep around for looting and pillaging.
Gransfors Bruks is a company, but each axe's head is deeply stamped with the initials of the guy who actually made it. These are truly fine implements, not mere tools, which is why I got the Wildlife Hatchet and Bearded Axe, because they were appealing, though the day will come will both will get a chance to do some work, like their middle brother.
Gransfors Bruks is a company, but each axe's head is deeply stamped with the initials of the guy who actually made it. These are truly fine implements, not mere tools, which is why I got the Wildlife Hatchet and Bearded Axe, because they were appealing, though the day will come will both will get a chance to do some work, like their middle brother.
Have Colts, will travel.
The avatar is the menuki of my Rob Douglas Wakisashi.
The avatar is the menuki of my Rob Douglas Wakisashi.
I bought this handy axe at a buffalo shooting match near Billings, MT. Guys dressed in period clothing shot an iron silouette of buffalo with blackpowder cartridge rifles. Many vendors had tables of stuff for sale.
Handle length is 18 inches. It's a fly-weight compared to hardware store axes.
TR
Fire Up the Grill - Hunting is NOT Catch & Release!
I don't know if he's still doing it or not, but Joe Delaronde out of South Dakota built about as good of a true tomahawk as you could find. I still have mine , and it's been lots of places and done lots of things over the 30 some odd years.
For field dressing game, and good game saw carried in the belt or in a pack is much handier and quicker than any axe type tool.
The saw blade on my leather man wave has served pretty well, as has the Wyoming Pac Saw, and the kershaw knife and saw blade changer
For field dressing game, and good game saw carried in the belt or in a pack is much handier and quicker than any axe type tool.
The saw blade on my leather man wave has served pretty well, as has the Wyoming Pac Saw, and the kershaw knife and saw blade changer
Guys, doesn't the handle (atainless steel) on the Leatherman knife get very slippery after your hands have all that blood and guts on them?
"The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
Mel Gibson: The Patriot tomahawk fight & final fight scenes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbtA0TIyoI8
The Last of the Mohicans - Final Battle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9rRKaD_ ... re=related
Two great movies.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbtA0TIyoI8
The Last of the Mohicans - Final Battle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9rRKaD_ ... re=related
Two great movies.
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin
Don't know what you saw but, I saw a bayonet in the Partriot and slave killer club in The Last of the Mohicans, for the final battle?
"The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
The older Mohican welding that club was one bad man!.S.B. wrote:Don't know what you saw but, I saw a bayonet in the Partriot and slave killer club in The Last of the Mohicans, for the final battle?
I wished that they didn't have to kill the young Indian man in Last of the Mohicans.
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin
The way I used the saw, just after opening the body cavity but before reaching in, no.S.B. wrote:Guys, doesn't the handle (atainless steel) on the Leatherman knife get very slippery after your hands have all that blood and guts on them?
Sincerely,
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
Hobie
"We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best that we find in our travels is an honest friend." Robert Louis Stevenson
- Ysabel Kid
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Sorry to jump in here and walk on your post but, I think they'were called Slave Killer clubs, weren't they? At least in all the literature I've read about Indian artifacts? Probably called different things in different parts of the continet and by different tribes of Indians?
"The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson."
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
Life member of NRA, USPSA, ISRA, AF&AM Pontiac #294
LIUNA #996 for the last 32 years, retired after 34 years.
- Ysabel Kid
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- Ysabel Kid
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Well, better late than never!
I like the non-decorated on better. That is not a pipe bowl, but a "hammer" or solid piece. Makes this a bit more useful. The other one would only be good for fighting - and barely so, as it thins to much where the blade attaches to the wooden handle, thus making this a weak joint. I tried throwing it once, and it promptly shattered the handle at that point.
I like the non-decorated on better. That is not a pipe bowl, but a "hammer" or solid piece. Makes this a bit more useful. The other one would only be good for fighting - and barely so, as it thins to much where the blade attaches to the wooden handle, thus making this a weak joint. I tried throwing it once, and it promptly shattered the handle at that point.
YK,
Man, yall are making me drool and jealous. That war club looks good to me. Functionality is the key anyway. I went out to the my storage shed last night and dug around and found an old roofing hammer that I think I will start drawing and trying to cut into a tomahawk soon, or as I get a chance.I need a lot of practice. My MIL is full Ojibwe and I hope to make a forged decorated one for her one day.
Johnny
Man, yall are making me drool and jealous. That war club looks good to me. Functionality is the key anyway. I went out to the my storage shed last night and dug around and found an old roofing hammer that I think I will start drawing and trying to cut into a tomahawk soon, or as I get a chance.I need a lot of practice. My MIL is full Ojibwe and I hope to make a forged decorated one for her one day.
Johnny
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin