Any electronics geeks here?

[SteveR]

In spite of a certain poster's assertion that he's the only one who knows what he's talking about, I've never seen anything burn up because of to much amperage, but HAVE seen things burnt up from too many volts. I've also seen things NOT WORK when given to LITTLE amperage. A simple example is the first USB wall charger I ever bought. USB is USB, correct? Nope. Some of those wall chargers turn out way too little amperage to charge certain types of phones/tablets/gizmos. My latest purchase in that area (USB wall charger) is one that turns out 2.1 amps per outlet and it has 5 outlets. It charges everything from my wife's Note Pro 12.2 to the little portable MP3 player (rated for an input of 1.X amps) with no problems.

Another example is a keyboard we have. The original 12 Volt 1.5 Amp supply died. I picked up a 12 Volt 2 Amp supply downtown and it's still going strong. Having more amps on tap means there is more current available to flow where it needs to go. If it's the correct voltage and AT LEAST the amperage required for the apparatus.

Trying to run your 600 MA gizmo on only 500 MA will cause it to not function correctly, if at all. Your best bet would be to get a 12 volt adapter from the manufacturer or to plug it into a 12-120 volt inverter. Then you'll be able to simply plug it in in your car, unplug it, take it into the house or wherever and plug it in again.

Yes Paul, you are right. I should have never posted. You sure did prove me wrong, with all of your experience.

Steve

Malamute, sorry I am such a fool, and should have known the Paul would be able to help you.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

Here in Texas we have a saying. If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!!!!

[SteveR]

Here in Texas we have a saying. If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!!!!

Sorry, you are right, what do I know about electronics anyway. I mean you showed me, all the great examples of how I am wrong. Yup, I just better stop. I mean you are so smart and everything.

Steve

[SteveR]

Here in Texas we have a saying. If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!!!!

Oh, you have some serious business savvy, belittle people who are potential customers, not only me, but anybody who understands electronics that might be looking at this board and see your business. I was being sarcastic to Paul's response, but being from Texas and all you probably knew that, right?

Steve

[AJMD429]

I dare anybody to prove I am wrong when I say the SAME VOLTAGE BUT INCREASING THE AMPERAGE WILL BURN UP LOGIC CIRCUITS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL DEVICES.

I think many here agree that it is the "amps" that burns stuff up, but you don't apply "amps" to something, you apply "volts", and the result (depending on the device's inherent resistance) is "amps". So yes, the amps are cooking it, but the VOLTS are what make the amps happen.

I think what others are trying to say is that as far as we know, the only way to increase the amperage flowing through a given circuit/device, is by applying higher voltage. In other words, if his device draws 500 mA when 9 volts (or whatever) is applied, then whether that 9 volt power supply is capable of supplying 500 mA or 50,000 mA, the device will still draw only 500 mA - but if you applied 12 volts it would draw 12/9ths of 500 mA or 667 mA, or if you applied 18 volts, it would draw 1,000 mA, and "lose the smoke" which would be bad.

If I had a 500 mA electronics device which used a 9 volt power supply, and had three choices:

• a) a 9 volt power supply capable of supplying 30 amps (30,000 mA), or
  b) a 12 volt power supply capable of supplying 750 mA, or
  c) a 24 volt power supply capable of supplying 500 mA,

I'd expect:

• a) perfect functioning,
  b) overheating my device, with the power supply undamaged,
  c) frying my device, but also overloading the power supply and potentially damaging it, depending on how long the device took to become non-conductive

Now if "a" was the setup, I'd want a fuse so that IF the device failed for some reason (I would NOT expect it to fail because of the power supply), drawing more than 1,000 mA or so would stop the flow; I'd not expect the power supply to be damaged even if it burnt my device to a crisp, but no sense letting 30 amps stray around unless you have to.

I don't have a degree in electronics (just pharmacy and medicine), I've only stayed at a Holiday Inn once, and I've fried LOTS of electronics over the years, so my 'advice' is worth what you all had to pay to read it...

[Blaine]

Or, you could go online and buy the exact power source that you need.

[claybob86]

I dare anybody to prove I am wrong when I say the SAME VOLTAGE BUT INCREASING THE AMPERAGE WILL BURN UP LOGIC CIRCUITS AND OTHER ELECTRICAL DEVICES.

I think many here agree that it is the "amps" that burns stuff up, but you don't apply "amps" to something, you apply "volts", and the result (depending on the device's inherent resistance) is "amps". So yes, the amps are cooking it, but the VOLTS are what make the amps happen.

I think what others are trying to say is that as far as we know, the only way to increase the amperage flowing through a given circuit/device, is by applying higher voltage. In other words, if his device draws 500 mA when 9 volts (or whatever) is applied, then whether that 9 volt power supply is capable of supplying 500 mA or 50,000 mA, the device will still draw only 500 mA - but if you applied 12 volts it would draw 12/9ths of 500 mA or 667 mA, or if you applied 18 volts, it would draw 1,000 mA, and "lose the smoke" which would be bad.

If I had a 500 mA electronics device which used a 9 volt power supply, and had three choices:

• a) a 9 volt power supply capable of supplying 30 amps (30,000 mA), or
  b) a 12 volt power supply capable of supplying 750 mA, or
  c) a 24 volt power supply capable of supplying 500 mA,

I'd expect:

• a) perfect functioning,
  b) overheating my device, with the power supply undamaged,
  c) frying my device, but also overloading the power supply and potentially damaging it, depending on how long the device took to become non-conductive

Now if "a" was the setup, I'd want a fuse so that IF the device failed for some reason (I would NOT expect it to fail because of the power supply), drawing more than 1,000 mA or so would stop the flow; I'd not expect the power supply to be damaged even if it burnt my device to a crisp, but no sense letting 30 amps stray around unless you have to.

I don't have a degree in electronics (just pharmacy and medicine), I've only stayed at a Holiday Inn once, and I've fried LOTS of electronics over the years, so my 'advice' is worth what you all had to pay to read it...

Ya nailed it, Doc!

[AmBraCol]

One more try. I'll let Leo explain it for me. He does much better.

https://askleo.com/can_i_use_a_charger_ ... _amperage/

[AmBraCol]

SteveR, if you feel offended at me for explaining things differently from you, I apologize. The original poster will have to make his own decision based on his own understanding of the advice offered, or ignore us all and go another route. That's just the nature of life.

[Malamute]

The manufacturer doesnt offer a 12v power source. Im looking for one locally that is within the cold packs manufacturers operating range for Ma in 6v ( 600-1000Ma).

Original post mistakenly said 9v. I edited it after looking again at the power supply I have.

Thanks for all the comments everyone.