Broadheads

[RustyJr]

I know that bow season is a ways away but I was wondering what you all on here would recommend for a broadhead. I'm shooting a Darton compound at 50 pounds with carbon arrows. I'm more of a gun hunter so bow season is more of an excuse to just get out in the woods. I would prefer the non-mechanical type if possible.

Thanks in advance,
RustyJr

[iceman]

It has been a long time since I have used a bow, but I used to like Bear broadheads. I don't know if you can still get them.

[JReed]

The Magnus Stingers are much recommend on the archery forums I keep up with. I plan on using them my self after all the good reviews I have seen.

[6pt-sika]

All the deer I've killed with archery tackle were killed using Muzzy 90 or 115 grain four bladed broadheads . At the time I was shooting a 65 pound Hoyt that was going about 260 FPS .

Both my shoulders have issues now that aren't allowing me to draw a bow anymore (#&%@**&$@) . So if I wanna do archery anymore I'm gonna need to get a crossbow or have both shoulders rebuilt . The cheaper alternative will be the crossbow for sure . And with all that being said when I do get a crossbow I anticipate using a Muzzy broadhead .

[wvfarrier]

I love the old bear two blades

[piller]

I am a newbie to it, too. I am wondering if the cut on contact type are better.

[86er]

Everyone is going to have a preference but you KNOW I experiment thoroughly with everything. The AMERICAN BROADHEAD COMPANY "Sonic" is the best. The 100 gr original is my choice but they are all good. They fly exactly like your field tip. They cut on contact with 3 blades that are like little steak-knives. The blades are easily replacable on the ferrules. The design allows for great penetration with low-poundage bows. I shoot 52# and sail these right through every whitetail deer I've shot and all but one hog. I will warn that sometimes blood trails don't start immediately, but I've never had a deer or hog go more than 50 yards from point of impact. Have had them stand there for a few seconds and just fall over. I've driven them through ribs, shoulders, leg bone and hog gristle. I have used the wider blade Sonic for shorter range bear over bait and I also use the 150 gr crossbow "Sonic Bolt" with excellent results. I have only shot one deer and one ram with my 35# recurve using the 100 gr Sonic but again they went right through. Really - you have to try them. One note of caution - they will usually go right through a "block" style target and just about every "bag" type target. They do come with a set of practice blades through. When I started with the bows about 10 years ago I used nearly every expandable blade, most fixed-blades that advertised "flies like a field tip" and 2-blade Muzzy's that I had to tune the bow to. NONE consistently zipped through stuff like the Sonic's, particularly with my low-poundage set-ups. I've since recommended Sonic's many times and my clients all fall in love with them. They've been used on elk, zebra, wildebeast and blesbok and all the shooters got great accuracy and pass-throughs.

[ndcowboy]

I'm a fan of fixed blade broadheads. There is little to nothing to go wrong with them. Keep it simple.
Last year I took a buck with the Cabela's Mini Lazer Pro. It is a 90 grain, 3 blade broadhead, and after the hit, it was like a horror movie the way the deer bled. On every heart beat, blood sprayed out the wound. I watched him run up a little hill about 30 yards and tip over dead.

[piller]

I have a Bear split limb solo cam that I bought a few years ago when I was working for a different company and had a little more off time. It is set up for 60 pounds draw, and with the let off, I can hold it still for about 60 seconds without shake. I just need a lot of practice and some time with a pro to get the right arrows. I have bought the arrows at Wal Mart, and my accuracy at 75 feet (measured with a 25 foot tape measure) is about a 7 inch circle at best. That is probably due more to me than the arrows. I did buy some carbon ones and they seem to give a lot better accuracy than my mish-mash collection of what I practice with on the occasion that I make the time to go do it.

Now, back from that little drift. How do you sharpen your broadheads?

[Rusty]

Now, back from that little drift. How do you sharpen your broadheads?

Everything in our house that gets sharpened gets sharpened on a Spyderco tri angle sharpener.

It will sharpen every kind of blade you have.

[FLINT]

I've had great success with Slick Tricks

but those new sonics look really good also

cut on contact heads are thought to penetrate better, which is mainly a concern when using lower poundage bows - or recurve bows. I know a lot of traditional guys use cut on contact heads.

All of the deer I've shot with the slick tricks bled like crazy and the arrow seemed to hardly slow down as it blew through the animal. I've never not had complete penetration. The recovered heads were all in perfect condition - though I've never reused one.

I don't resharpen blades - as replacement blades are cheap enough, to me its not worth screwing around trying to resharpen them, as the replacement blades are razor sharp - and I would never want to shoot a deer with anything less than that.

I wouldn't worry about sharpening blades unless you go with a fixed blade type broadhead - but those are usually long and don't fly well at the high arrow speeds generated by modern compound/cross bows

[JB]

Hit them in the right spot and ANY quality broadhead will do the job. Find one that's easy to tune in your bow and it will do the job. In fixed blades I've had good luck with NAP Nitrons, but I ran into a large pile on sale and they shot well for me. Experiment and you'll find some that will fly better with your setup and some will shoot closer to your field points than others will.

[EdinCT]

With a lower draw weight bow I like cut to the tip broad heads like Magnus. They sail through and kill well, I also use Muzzy 4 blade 100 gr heads and get better blood trails but I am pulling around 70 lbs.

[Les Staley]

Okay, here's my take.. When I was young and full of beans and sassafras, I was pulling 70# with ease.. Loved Muzzy 130s...now that I can't pull back that much, I've gone to an Excaliber Vortex..200# recurve.. I skulk Walmart clearance bins around the first of the year for any cheap broadhead on sale..usually pick up a three pack for $5 to $8 per pack...last six antelope I've killed didn't figure out what a cheapskate was leaning over the hood of my Dodge till too late! Yes, most 75 to 100 gr broad heads fly the same as field points out of my crossbow..

[Lastmohecken]

On compound bows, and crossbows I have always used the old 3 bladed Wasp and it has always killed well and quick. On the traditional re-curve bow, I went back to the old Bear Razorhead cut on contact and I throw away the razorblade insert. I have read quite a bit writen by the old time recurve and longbow shooter and they all swore by the 2 blade broadhead. While the Wasp has always worked good for me on the compounds, the 2 blade head slices through much easier, and it's best if they have a chisel or rounded point, not needle sharp, because if you hit a bone, the needle sharp one will likely stick and stop right there, but the chisel or rounded cut on impact head will change directions and will amaze you on how it can keep on going in flesh and bone.

As far as sharpening the old Bear Razorhead, what is needed is a plain old flat bastard file, and that's it. It doesn't have to be razorblade sharp to preform very well, just a good fresh filed edge works great. I shot a huge doe, a few years back with the Bear Razorhead, out of my 60lb Recurve bow, range probably 30yds and I hit the front shoulder leg bone dead center, but the arrow slid around the legbone, took out a rib, went all of the way through the chest cavity took out another rib and hit and slid around the far leg bone and stuck half way out of the deer, for half a second before the deer jumped and snapped off the arrow, leaving the back half in the lung cavity. The deer bled out very quick and only went maybe 30 or 40yds. I don't think the old Wasp would have done nearly as good in this case.

[4t5]

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