336 firing pins

[jnyork]

Who makes the one-piece firing pins for Marlin 336? Thanks.

[Bigahh]

I believe Brownells has them. I thought of doing the same with mine, but then ran across this thread on another site! It scared me enough to not do it.

Originally Posted by Denver
Howdy to all;

New guy here. I just picked up a Marlin 336 RC in 35 Rem that I hope will be a great cast bullet shooter. I'd like to replace the firing pin with a one piece pin. My question is; how to remove the extractor collar to get at the pin holding the front part of the 2 piece pin? Is there a tool needed like the one for Mauser extractor collars? Also where to get the one piece pins? Brownells?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ron

Ron,
In a word, DON'T! Trust me,,,,,,,. Whatever the "advantages" are,,, the alternative is NOT good. Ez to end up with a premature detonation. Lucky for me it was 'only' in a 25-20. There is a VERY good reason for that 2 piece firing pin, it works, and is safe.
Cheers,
R*2

[Hobie]

I know that jnyork knows this but for the lurkers... the one piece firing pin was developed by those seeking minor advantages for the CAS game. The two piece firing pin is a part of the design for safety reasons.

[Chuck 100 yd]

I agree. Keep the 2 piece one and the safety it provides.

[jnyork]

After further research I have trashed the idea. Still having misfire (light firing pin strikes), have done just about everything there is to do but no joy. The stock hammer spring will have to go back in and learn to live with the 9 pound trigger pull.

[J Miller]

After further research I have trashed the idea. Still having misfire (light firing pin strikes), have done just about everything there is to do but no joy. The stock hammer spring will have to go back in and learn to live with the 9 pound trigger pull.

Cock the rifle then while holding the lever closed slowly lower the hammer down on the firing pin. If the hammer does not push the firing pin all the way home, then you've got a bind in there.
My 1894 Cowboy had this problem to the point of miss fires. It took me quite a bit of diagnosing to figure out the locking bolt was pressing on the rear firing pin and really interfering with it's ability to move. I had to releave some metal on the locking bolt to cure the problem.

If that is not the problem, then a trip to a gunsmith to get the sear worked on would be my next move.

Joe

[jnyork]

Thanks, Joe, I have an identical rifle and both firing pins act just the same, I dont think there is any bind there. Locking block has been polished out where the pin slides through it, slick as snot. I am going to put the Wolfe spring back in it and mess around a little more. With the Wolfe spring in the rear slot, it wont fire but maybe two out of five and the strikes are very light. With it in the front slot, it fires every time but the trigger pull is horrendous. I am going to put it back in the rear slot and try a couple of little washers under it, see if maybe I can get the tension somewhere in between and get it to fire while having a better trigger pull. I have polished the trigger nose with 600 but have not messed with the engagement angle and am loath to take it to a gunsmith, there are too many shadetree mechanics in the trade. Will keep trying.

[JBledsoe]

I have polished the trigger nose with 600 but have not messed with the engagement angle and am loath to take it to a gunsmith, there are too many shadetree mechanics in the trade. Will keep trying.

You are correct about the shade tree 'smiths. DO NOT alter the hammer spring to achieve a better trigger pull, but it sounds as if you have found that already. One alternative is a Wild West Happy trigger. that trigger will reduce pull to 3-4 pounds. Cost about $90 dollars and is easy to install. Another option is have a know 'smith do the work, we have a good one in the next town who is very reasonable in prices. PM me if interested.

[jnyork]

I have polished the trigger nose with 600 but have not messed with the engagement angle and am loath to take it to a gunsmith, there are too many shadetree mechanics in the trade. Will keep trying.

You are correct about the shade tree 'smiths. DO NOT alter the hammer spring to achieve a better trigger pull, but it sounds as if you have found that already. One alternative is a Wild West Happy trigger. that trigger will reduce pull to 3-4 pounds. Cost about $90 dollars and is easy to install. Another option is have a know 'smith do the work, we have a good one in the next town who is very reasonable in prices. PM me if interested.

Thanks JBledsoe, The Wild West trigger wont work on these very early 336's, they have a one piece trigger. I emailed the guy at WW, he said dont even try.

[JBledsoe]

Thanks JBledsoe, The Wild West trigger wont work on these very early 336's, they have a one piece trigger. I emailed the guy at WW, he said dont even try.

You forgot to mention that little detail.