hot blueing

gary rice · Post by **gary rice** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 1:50 pm

can someone point me to an article i think i saw on this site a while back about hot blueing, maybe it was salvo who posted it.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:02 pm

Gary,

I don't remember one here, but then I could have missed it. But here is fairly in depth post about hot bluing on The Ruger Forum:
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13109

Joe

gary rice · Post by **gary rice** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:05 pm

thanks much joe, im trying to decide if i want to take this task on.

J Miller wrote:Gary,

I don't remember one here, but then I could have missed it. But here is fairly in depth post about hot bluing on The Ruger Forum:
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13109

Joe

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:35 pm

Gary,

I've thought about setting up a small bluing tank for little gun stuff. But after reading that article I think I'll pass. I really don't have enough stuff to blue to make it worth while.

Joe

Mike Hunter · Post by **Mike Hunter** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:30 pm

Do all kinds of bluing here in the shop, the best advice I have is Farm It out... If I didn't have to do the bluing I wouldn't. Salts are nasty, creep out on to the floor, will eat up concrete, wood etc...and thats when they are cold. When hot...thats a diffrent story, imagine 280+ degree concentrated caustic lye. Get a splatter on you and you'll know about it for a couple of weeks, nothing like a lye burn.

But if you decide to do it ...well have fun.

gary rice · Post by **gary rice** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:32 pm

that settle that, i'll pass. i knew it was a crazy idea anyway.

Mike Hunter wrote:Do all kinds of bluing here in the shop, the best advice I have is Farm It out... If I didn't have to do the bluing I wouldn't. Salts are nasty, creep out on to the floor, will eat up concrete, wood etc...and thats when they are cold. When hot...thats a diffrent story, imagine 280+ degree concentrated caustic lye. Get a splatter on you and you'll know about it for a couple of weeks, nothing like a lye burn.

But if you decide to do it ...well have fun.

Abilene · Post by **Abilene** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:33 pm

We keep a gallon of vinegar for the splashes followed by soap and water. Knocks the burn right out. They also sell a neutralizer for the salts from Brownells. I have used the vinegar to clean out the creeping salts, but if left on a blued surface it will remove the blue, make sure to rinse and oil after you use it. Abilene

marlinman93 · Post by **marlinman93** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:57 pm

If you're considering bluing, then you might consider rust bluing, not hot bluing. It's something an average guy could set up for, and not end up building a special room or building, and expend great amounts of cash for materials, tanks, and tools!
Of course then there's the learning process, and it's time consuming too!

gary rice · Post by **gary rice** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 7:44 pm

how does it work?

marlinman93 wrote:If you're considering bluing, then you might consider rust bluing, not hot bluing. It's something an average guy could set up for, and not end up building a special room or building, and expend great amounts of cash for materials, tanks, and tools!
Of course then there's the learning process, and it's time consuming too!