in search of a smoother Rattler 94

MacEntyre · Post by **MacEntyre** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:24 pm

Folks, I'm almost done with the simple fixes I'm making on my '65 Winchester 94. Since I've gotten so good at the "wiggles" needed, per Junior's instructions, to assemble the parts, I thought I would take it down one more time to find out what makes the action stiff and crunchy right at the beginning of the lever cycle.

It did not take long to identify the culprit. When I thumbed the hammer back very slowly, I could feel the stiffness and almost hear the grinding and crunching. Once the hammer got past half-cock, all that stuff went away.

So, I removed the trigger/hammer assembly, and polished the underside of the hammer, and the end of the spring. Those two parts were causing all the trouble. I applied some grease, reassembled, and found the action to be much improved.

Still, the initial resistance is huge, compared to the resistance once you get past the half-cock point. That is caused by the fact that the end of the spring meets the bottom of the hammer at close to 90 degrees. Once the end of the spring slides down the hammer a bit, that angle is much less, and things move along with less effort. I'm wondering, what can be done about this?

Is it possible to dress the face of the spring-end, so that it meets the hammer surface at a lower angle? Will that help?

Post by **Hobie** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:50 pm

I wouldn't be altering the spring. Frankly, if you've got a flat spring gun, I'm wondering just how bad things are.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:57 pm

MacEntyre,

To reduce the initial cocking resistance, polish the face of the hammer where it contacts the bolt, and polish the bottom of the bolt where it contacts the hammer.

That's about all you can do.

Now, quit fixing it, it's not broke no more. Go shoot the darn thing, a bunch.

Joe

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:04 pm

The pictures are at slightly different angles so it's a little difficult to tell... but: your's looks a little "flat" at the bend where the underspring contacts it, in comparison to mine.

Yours:

And mine:

Mine doesn't look as though it contacts the bottom of the hammer at 90Âº. It seems a little shallower than that. While this project rifle is not yet assembled, the hammer strikes the striker with plenty of authority. I have no fear it will make a "boom" noise when loaded.

MacEntyre · Post by **MacEntyre** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 5:01 pm

It's the turned "knuckle" on the end that hits the hammer at 90 deg, not the long run of the spring itself.

I'm going with Mr. Miller's advice... it's off to the range first thing in the morning!

Thanks again, folks!

DerekR · Post by **DerekR** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:10 pm

I have a quick question guys. I hope I'm not hijackin'! I took a little bend out of that short spring that lays under the big spring to help the trigger pull on my 94. It seems to work fine, but I haven't shot it yet. The action is smoother and the trigger is lighter. Ya'll see any problems with my shadetree fix?

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:22 pm

DerekR wrote:I have a quick question guys. I hope I'm not hijackin'! I took a little bend out of that short spring that lays under the big spring to help the trigger pull on my 94. It seems to work fine, but I haven't shot it yet. The action is smoother and the trigger is lighter. Ya'll see any problems with my shadetree fix?

I don't really know. I haven't monkeyed with the geometry of the springs in any of my 94s. I find they rattle, clank, and shoot fine the way they are. Some rattle and clank more than others. That short spring is like the "helper" spring you might install on the rear of a lightweight p/u. Its only use is the help strengthen the longer springs when fully compressed. In the 94 its function is to help start the longer spring "get moving". It substantially increases the speed at which the hammer "falls". Tuning a rifle or pistol to lessen the energy it takes to operate always has an effect on "Lock-Time". Lock time is best described as the time from releasing the sear to the firing pin hitting the primer. You really want a fast lock time in order to minimize any affect your grip, hold, or follow-thru has on shot placement. Hope that helps, although not a definitive answer.

DerekR · Post by **DerekR** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:41 pm

I hadn't thought of lock-time Griff. I'm just experimenting and I'll see how she shoots this weekend. I love tinkering with my guns!