33 WCF original Loads

[coyote nose]

450fuller no worries about corrosive priming in my original factory loads. In the link above, where I detail my factory load tests, I mention that all bullets are pulled and weighed, powder weighed and put in a container, case deprimed, case examined, reannealed if necessary, reprimed with a new primer, then powder is examined for deterioration and placed back into the case, and finally the bullet is reseated. I do lose a lot of rounds this way as sometimes the bullet and/or powder and/or case is bad and scrapped but safety first.

[Drawdown]

CN, I read all your prep of old factory ammo before reloading. One thing caught my interest, that I've not heard before? You annealed by holding base of case in your fingers, spinning only until about to hot to hold?
Ive not been annealing long, gotta lot to learn. But is there benefit in this light & quick annealing, when to do so? Ive got good amount of 30-30 brass that's been used a lot, maybe something i need to learn to get most use?

[450 Fuller]

DrawD-
I have been annealing for years now using candles, gloves and 40-65 brass. Also anneal.348 cases for re-forming the .348 cases into 450 Alaskan. Since brass cases work harden, it's best to anneal the neck area before the reforming step. Leather gloves allow the brass lower rim area to be held a bit longer, assuring good annealing. Then you can reform the brass with less splitting or loss of valuable cases. Once reformed, you may not need to anneal the brass for awhile. The 40-65 brass is closer to the dimensions of 33wcf , allowing a reformed case to be formed with just one pass through a good sizing die. Outside case lube can be used sparingly for reforming 45-70 brass to 33WCF, but just remember that case lube builds up in a die, sometimes creating dents or creases in thebrass cases. Best to clean off excess lube.
Good carnuba wax can also be used in the case neck area to do the same job. RM

[Drawdown]

Thanks 450F, good explanation! I found out about to much lube causing dents my self. When I first started reloading I was using the Lee Lube water-based, and I was soaking my fingers in it, really rubbing em down. Would start getting dents couldn't figure it out, thought there must be something in the die? Took it apart, found plenty gunk & rust starting from previous resizing.
Did little search, and sure nuff, too much lube 2ws cause. So I switched to Hornady lube, the wax like in a bowl. Barely smear em now, and don't get dents or rust!
But ve never reformed any brass to another cartridge. And i like the idea of using a candle and leather gloves!