Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

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Woodtroll
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Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Woodtroll »

I have always wanted a vintage pocket watch of my own. I don't want anything rare or fancy, but would like to have a reliable, functional example of a working man's pocketwatch, and I don't really know much about them except for looking at many different ones on eBay over the years. My only real "must" is that I want a cover/lid over the face for protection.

Can someone here suggest some reliable, reasonably priced (i.e., common) models to look for, maybe some things to watch out for, sources other than eBay, etc.? Or is there a resource where I might learn the basics of such things?

I'd like to concentrate on American-made mechanical watches. I know that Hamilton and Elgin are the big two, I guess, but I don't know a thing about the model numbers or grades. I already have two modern-made quartz battery pocket watches, but I'm looking for something older and with some history to it. I'd prefer stem-wind rather than fooling with a key, and I'm afraid I don't know all the different types of settings. I do know I prefer the "hunter" style (I think it is called) with the front cover, and could see how the hinged back cover would also be handy for maintenance and cleaning, but I'm afraid I don''t know the proper terminology for such. As far as size and model, what would be typical for, say, 1900-1940 or so? I don't want a pancake to carry around, but don't want a lady's wristwatch either.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where I might learn more or make a purchase without getting burned?

Thanks everyone!
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gamekeeper
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by gamekeeper »

I would look for a "half hunter" they have the protecting front cover but with a window so you can still see the time.
I have a Swiss made Hunter and a really old Ingersoll pocket watch I had when I was at school.
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by crs »

They are indeed cool, but not a practical as a wristwatch for most folk.

Years ago, I worked for a company that did a large project for Wells Fargo Bank and upon completion, our president hosted a big dinner party and handed out gifts from the WFB gift shop. I received a gold pocket watch with a chain and a gold nugget (which went on the chain for the pocket watch). That was back when men dressed for the office and all my travelling suits had vests with watch pockets, so I did wear the fancy rig on occasion.
Now it is all in the safe and the watch is wound at least twice a year just to keep it working. Yes, it is engraved with the WFB stagecoach and horses.
Come to think of it, I think I will wind the watch now.
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Old No7
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Old No7 »

Here's a more modern take on that...

My kids once got me a Carabiner Watch and it turned out to be more handy and useful than the "gimmick" I first thought it was... Instead of digging into the pocket for my iPhone, I could just glance at that (or tip it up to look) and get the time. With the heavy-duty carabiner clip, it was really easy to move from one belt loop to another, or you could put it on a pack while hunting too.

If you Google that phrase, you'll find there are many more styles than those shown below.

Not exactly what you wanted -- but an interesting option to consider, I think. :wink:

Old No7

Carabiner Watch 01.jpg
Carabiner Watch 02.jpg
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Marvin S
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Marvin S »

You might look on sites like longisland watch co. Orient watch co of Japan has some good mechanical movements.
Pete44ru
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Pete44ru »

.

Who knows ?

You might get some good personal help, if not a good watch, if you visit some old time watch/clock repair shops & ask if they can help float your boat... :)

.
lthardman
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by lthardman »

I know a little bit about old American made pocket watches. Enough to get in trouble anyway. It is best if you stick with a Railroad Grade pocket watch. There were official requirements for a watch to be Railroad Grade. It had to have at least 15 jewels, it had to have the crown at the twelve o'clock position, it had to be lever set (as opposed to crown set), it had to be accurate within a certain number of seconds per day/week/month, etc. And, it had to be open faced. Hunter cases were not allowed.

Back in the old pocket watch days, people bought the movement and the case it was housed in separately. So it is possible to get a Railroad Grade movement in a hunter case if you want to. Back then, a working man on a railroad bought the best movement he could afford, and then usually bought a less expensive nickel case. A dandy (all hat and no cattle) would buy a cheap movement and a 14K gold case. The guy with the most expensive movement AND a gold case owned the railroad (or a bank, etc.).

Some of the big names are Hamilton, Hampden, American Waltham, Ball, Columbus, Illinois, and of course Elgin. Elgins with 15 + jewels can be a good value. A Hamilton model 992 is a really nice pocket watch, and as quite a few were made they can still be purchased well. The 992 has a gold center wheel in the train. Not for looks, but for performance. Very nice. Elgins were the first pocket watches made by more "modern" methods with a goal of having interchangeable parts. So they can be great if you get a good one.

Never pay more for a watch with more than 21 jewels. Most folks agree that exceeding 21 jewels is more for show than go.

While true Railroad Grade watches are lever set, you may find that to be a hassle. In a lever set watch, you have to remove the crystal to access the lever and set the hands. So you may want to stick with a good Elgin model that has a pull out crown for setting the hands. But.....Hamilton 992's are sure very cool, lever set and all.

There is a lot more. More than I can put in a post. But if you find a model you like get the name of the manufacturer, model, and serial number and I might be able to help you with a price range.
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Woodtroll
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Woodtroll »

Thanks for the help, everyone! To clarify a little bit, I'm looking for an older, American mechanical pocket watch not for convenience or even every day use, but because I think they're really neat and there are times I would enjoy carrying one. Sort of like hunting with a vintage lever gun - there are other more modern rifles to be had, for sure, arguably more efficient ones, but the link to the past and the old-time craftsmanship are intangibles that I can't explain but am attracted to.

lthardman, thank you for your detailed reply! I do want a hunter case for protection of the crystal, and I think the lever set is cool and understand why it would be used on a railroad watch rather than the stem set, but because I would be carrying this watch infrequently then I think the stem set would be my best option. I've narrowed down to focus on Waltham, Hamilton, and Elgin in 16 and 18 sizes and with at least 17 jewels. I like a gold colored case and Arabic numerals, but do like the crown at 3 o'clock.

I am pretty mechanically adept, have a good set of jeweler's screwdrivers and a steady hand. Is switching cases and even dial faces to get exactly the watch I want something that is feasible for a mechanically inclined layman with some Youtube or internet guidance, or is that strictly watch-repairman territory?

Thanks again,
Regan
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J Miller
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by J Miller »

I have what you are looking for. Two from my step grandfather and one from my dad. Unfortunately I can't find a watcher maker to service them. And they need it.

The one I use now is a Chinese made version with both sides transparent. It's fun to watch the works move as it runs. It wasn't expensive, but serves the purpose till I can find a watch maker.

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Woodtroll
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Woodtroll »

J Miller wrote: Sat Aug 25, 2018 8:03 am Unfortunately I can't find a watcher maker to service them. And they need it.
Joe
Joe, I stumbled across this repair service when I started looking at old watches. Some places want several hundred dollars to clean and lube these watches! This outfit charges $70-90 depending on which watch you have:

http://www.horologist.com/repair_prices.htm

I hope this helps get your old watches ticking again!

Take care,
Regan
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by jhrosier »

I have a Bulova pocket watch with the Hunter case that I bought new about 30 years ago.
It is a good watch but I don't know if they are made nowadays.

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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Griff »

I have an Elgin from around the 1930's IIRC, the wife bought it for me around 1991/2... it doesn't have the cover, but the last time I had it rebuilt, I had a thicker glass lens put on it. The first time I had it rebuilt, the guy didn't oil it, and either he didn't tell me, or I forget and used it anyway. It got outta whack pretty quickly. I had a custom chain made for it and custom fob.
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Marvin S »

This Illinois watch was my Grandpaw’s he got it in the 1920’s
I opened it up and it’s 17 jewel and is a 1923 model.
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by lthardman »

Woodtroll wrote: Sat Aug 25, 2018 7:44 amI am pretty mechanically adept, have a good set of jeweler's screwdrivers and a steady hand. Is switching cases and even dial faces to get exactly the watch I want something that is feasible for a mechanically inclined layman with some Youtube or internet guidance, or is that strictly watch-repairman territory?

Thanks again,
Regan
It can certainly be done, but it is beyond my capabilities. I have a modest collection of these old mechanical wonders, and I personally don't want to take the chance I would screw something up. And there is quite a variety of cases out there. Swing out cases, screw type, friction fit pry off type. And Hunter Cases, which are my personal favorite as well. IMHO, the tricky part would be working with the crown (stem) and how it engages with the rest of the mechanism. No way I would personally attempt to change a dial face. Those porcelain double sunk faces are very delicate. As are the hands themselves. Not something my meat hooks would attempt. I might suggest you give it a try with an old Westclox "Pocket Ben" as they can be obtained fairly reasonably. Try your hand on those before trying it on a piece of history. But, your watch your choice.
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by lthardman »

BTW, Regan, focusing on Hamilton, Waltham and Elgin in the 16 or 18s size is a good start. You might also consider Illinois. I personally like the 18s, but the 16s are a bit more pocket friendly. Don't walk by an Elgin Father Time without giving it a look.
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Woodtroll
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Woodtroll »

Thanks very much for the advice, lthardman. After spending a fair bit of time watching videos and reading websites, I think I could do the work, but picking the right parts would be a real challenge! I realized I’d be money ahead to be patient, maybe spend a little more, a get a solid watch that’s exactly what I want instead of “customizing” a less expensive one.

It’s great to see the photos of y’all’s watches - keep them coming, please!

Thanks everyone,
Regan
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by lthardman »

Here are a few of my favorites. On the left is a Hamilton 938, 17 J, made approximately 1900. There were only about 1000 of these made. In the center is a Ball Rail Road Standard, 17 J. On the right is a American Waltham Vanguard 23 J, from about 1915.

Image

Here are a few Hunter Case pocket watches. On the left is a Hamilton 993, 21 J, from about 1913. In the center is a Waltham Crescent Street, 21 J from about 1896. And on the right is a Columbus Watch Company Railway King, listed as 16 J, from about 1894.

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Woodtroll
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Woodtroll »

Very nice watches, thanks so much for posting. I really prefer the Arabic numbers (although I am not happy that they are called that!), and a lot of those watches really check all my boxes as what I think of as a vintage pocket watch.

Thanks again,
Regan
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Ysabel Kid »

lthardman wrote: Tue Aug 28, 2018 4:17 pm Here are a few of my favorites. On the left is a Hamilton 938, 17 J, made approximately 1900. There were only about 1000 of these made. In the center is a Ball Rail Road Standard, 17 J. On the right is a American Waltham Vanguard 23 J, from about 1915.

Image

Here are a few Hunter Case pocket watches. On the left is a Hamilton 993, 21 J, from about 1913. In the center is a Waltham Crescent Street, 21 J from about 1896. And on the right is a Columbus Watch Company Railway King, listed as 16 J, from about 1894.

Image
Stunning!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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Bill in Oregon
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Bill in Oregon »

I sure have learned a lot in this thread. Beautiful watches!
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by Marvin S »

I have been winding the Illinois watch for three days and checking it against a quartz clock. I have not noticed any time loss or gain, pretty impressive for 95 years old.
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Re: Looking for a Solid, Reasonable Pocket Watch

Post by 65bee »

My paternal grandfather (1889-1984) was a railroad man (42 years) and owned a Hamilton with gold case. He was in the railroad depot 'mens' room when a soldier walked in to use the facilities, it was 1918. He struck up a conversation with my granddad and then asked him if he would be interested in buying a nice watch, as he was shipping out for the front and wanted some cash. My grand-dad asked him how much he wanted and he told him he would take $10. My grand-dad just happened to be in need of a watch and happened to have the $10., so he bought it. He carried that watch every day up until around 1980. At night, he hung it on the bed-post by his head. He told me many times he intended to leave the watch to me. He treasured it. One day he was riding the bus to town and a character got on the bus and sat down beside him. At one point he pulled the watch out to check the time. When the bus arrived at his destination he got off and immediately realized his watch was missing! The bus had already departed and so had his watch. He knew he had been 'fleeced' by the passenger sitting beside him, but it was too late. He never got over losing that watch, it was his most treasured possession.
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