1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

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1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Sixgun »

OK Guys,
My masterpiece is almost done but I could not wait any longer to show this baby off. You all remember that scarce 1899 Savage carbine in .303 that my buddy found in a little cubby hole in his house? Well, I could not bring myself to cash this Savage in for a hundred bucks at a future gun buyback program. Carbines with light barrels and fruitwood stocks are few and far between (this Savage was made in 1924) but..............this baby was toast. 95% of the gun was heavily pitted with another 95% of it had rust welded parts. Nothing worked. All screws, the lever, bolt, extractor, etc were rusted solid.

I've learned a few things over the years dealing with rust, but the rust on this gun was too deep to sand out. The German in me (my other half is Italian) would not let me be beat so.....................

I soaked it in penetrating oil for several weeks and then went to work every night when I had time. I totally disassembled the gun. Some screws broke free and other had to be drilled out. These latter ones needed the holes to be rethreaded. but..............even though I had it all apart after a couple of weeks, I still had all those nasty pits.

The insides were bad but nothing like the outside. Chamber was smooth and plenty of rifling. The brass cartridge carrier was in great shape.

The metal work is done but I'm still working on the wood. The forearm is fine but the carbine buttstock was in 3 major pieces and was split in about 5 other areas. The sides were completly broken off.......bummer. It looks pretty good now but I ain't done.


1.) Completely took gun apart.

2.) The action, barrel, and most of the parts were sand blasted to get rid off all the rust.

3.) And the mystery agent...................drum roll please............JB WELD!!!! :D I mixed up a mess of this, dyed it brown and coated the entire action, barrel, and buttplate. Sanded it all down and did it again! (don't ask why I dyed it brown--I had other thoughts.)

4.) Screws, lever, and internal action parts were rust blued

5.) And order to Brownells brought me a few taps and dies and a can of O.D. green oven cure epoxy paint. ($34--ouch!) Black looks cheap to me, so I chose military green. The color contrast looks great with the rust blued screws and the soon to be dark brown stock.

I cooked that baby up today in Mom's oven, waited a few hours and put her together. Works perfect and I even fired two light loads out of it today. Its going to be a real thumper with 220 grain cast loads.

I added the Cadillac of sights to it from one I had laying around, a click adjustable Redfield that fits right into the factory drilled and tapped holes for a tang sight. :D

Check this baby out. :D -------------------------Sixgun


Before
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After
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Now if you believe that you probably voted for Obama----you retart! (this is the 22 Hi-Power that I was outbid on at an auction several weeks ago---went for $1,600)

O.K, lets start over again :D

Before
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I forgot to take pictures after I sandblasted it so I'll show you my sandblaster. :D (Hey! Where's your sense of humor?)
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All JB Welded up-------Man! That stuff dries hard!! $5,358 worth of sandpaper :D

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Sanded down
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The bolt all sanded down
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Ain't she a beauty??? :D :D
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Left side
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by earlmck »

Now that is one fine looking...... uh..... sight you got on that thing, Sixgun.

Quite a project you're taking on there. I'm a woose: I'd have just waited for the buy-back.
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Post by Sixgun »

Yea Earl, I know. 50 hours of work and I still have a $200 rifle. :D Now, who's the retart? :D -----------Sixgun
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Post by pwl44m »

Just keep in Mind those E-bay Morons be they Sellers or Buyers, but give Mike D a heads up when U list it. :lol:
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by AkRay »

A bake on finish in a grey or black color would probably improve the looks a lot. You've gone to a lot of trouble to save it, so you might as well continue and get it looking as good as possible. It looks much better now than it did before, and I'm sure you will have it shooting again.
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Post by Pitchy »

Great job buddy, it lives. 8) 8)
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by AJMD429 »

I'm glad you saved it from the 'buy-back' fate; I'd somehow feel better about throwing it in the river, or using it as a pry-bar or making a lamp out of it, than making it appear a 'crime-gun', even though I know those programs are a bunch of Pelosi anyway. I guess if I ever sell a gun to a 'buy-back' program, I'll be ok with it if I can use the funds to buy something 'bad' like an EBR.

Nice work, and great idea about the JB-Weld....!!!!!

I'm going to link this to the post on JB-Weld projects. :wink:
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Post by Sixgun »

Thanks for the feedback. :D I realize my decision to put this gun back into action and the color I used would not be popular. I'm one of the first to say, "junk that junk, get rid of it" as "junk is junk and always will be junk".

I can't begin to think of the many guns I near gave away or took to the buy back programs because of condition or desirability. There was just something about this particular rifle that kept grabbing at me. First, its a seldom seen carbine in a caliber that shoots the heavy bullets well, unlike the 30-30. The whole gun only weighs a bit over 6 pounds. As these light carbines seldom make accurate shooters, I decided to make it a "hunter"---hence the o.d.green.

For testing purposes, I also painted a small spare part with this paint and oven cured it. After cooling from the oven, I sprayed it with 2+2 carb cleaner and it ran off with no discoloration. The only way this paint comes off is with sandblasting.

*****The .303 cartridge is not much on paper but.............loaded with 220 grain cast bullets behind a mess of IMR 4350, it rivals the 30-40 Krag cartridge. It can push a 220 gr at 1900 with the .303 while the Krag does it at 2,000, all in a rifle that weighs several pounds less.*****

So.............I have always liked challenges, especially when others say, "you crazy?" or "your wasting your time".

I'm gonna kill an elk with this Savage come November----or at least try to. :D----------Sixgun
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Post by jeepnik »

Looks great. One question, did the JB Weld thread give you the idea to slather it in the stuff?
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Post by yooper2 »

Wow, might not be a show piece but it looks like it'll be at home in the field. Way to bring one back from the brink. :)

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Post by 2ndovc »

Pretty cool, Jack!

jb 8)
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Post by ollogger »

Job well done Jack, hope ya get a elk with it this fall


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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Sixgun »

jeepnik wrote:Looks great. One question, did the JB Weld thread give you the idea to slather it in the stuff?

Jeepnik,
No, it was coincidental. I've been a huge fan of JB Weld and PC-7 since I been born, it seems like. I got the idea to cover up the rust on the Savage from filling in screw holes on receivers, barrels, etc. on other guns over the years.

I knew I had to get ALL of the rust out of the pits so thus the sandblasting. I really don't know if this oven cure paint is gonna hold up. I'm just experimenting here. One way or the other, I'll wake up tomorrow. :D ----Sixgun
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Catshooter »

Wow. I'm afraid I'd've rescued the old girl too. Especially something like that one, Savage, carbine, caliber. Very cool.

I wouldn't have thought of the JB to fill the pits though, that was smart.

What did you dye the JB with?


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Post by Old Ironsights »

did a better job on it than I would have. Glad you kept it. Would have never thought of using JB weld that way...
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Post by O.S.O.K. »

Using JB Weld to fill in rust pitting... cool. What's the bore look like?
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Post by Sixgun »

Catshooter wrote:Wow. I'm afraid I'd've rescued the old girl too. Especially something like that one, Savage, carbine, caliber. Very cool.
What did you dye the JB with?
Cat

Catshooter,
OK, here goes. Originally, I was going to spray paint it brown with Rustoleum paint and I figured the brown JB Weld would be easier to hide. I used the dye from Brownells Acca Glass bedding compound. Getting on the Brownells website is a dangerous thing to do when you got some play money in your pocket. I spent over $100 just on paint and some taps and dies. I could have easily spent $500, maybe more. Gotta control oneself--ain't easy. :D

This oven cure paint is really neat. It dries hard as a rock. I see myself buying more but its not easy putting a long barreled gun in a regular oven--this carbine just made it. If you have some kick around camp gun, its the cats meow.

O.S.O.K.,
The bore is an #8 with 10 being perfect. Not bad but a few pits here and there. I shot 12 rounds out of it today using cast bullets at 1,000 fps and put them into 1 and 1/2" at 50 yards without trying. Not much of a test but I did not feel like driving to he gunclub today in 90 degree heat.------------Sixgun
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Post by olyinaz »

Pretty amazing comeback there. If you get her field ready it'll all be worth it. How did you rehab the hammer and sear for a safe trigger?

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Post by w30wcf »

Sixgun,
You da man! :D :D
Nice work!

Thank you for rescuing an old soldier.......

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Post by Blaine »

Amazing :!: I'm afraid I would have made a tomato stake out of it :lol:
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Post by junkbug »

Awesome!
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Post by Sixgun »

olyinaz wrote:Pretty amazing comeback there. If you get her field ready it'll all be worth it. How did you rehab the hammer and sear for a safe trigger?
Oly
Oly,
I really lucked out on the hammer/sear thingy. The front face of the hammer and the sear were untouched by rust but the sides were pitted, where it don't matter. :D

She's field ready now. :D


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Post by Old Savage »

You are the tenacious one. :D :D :D
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Post by Sixgun »

Old Savage wrote:You are the tenacious one. :D :D :D

Big deal, that ain't nothin'------YOU get all of the indentations! :D --------Sixgun
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Post by Alan Wood »

So is that the original but stock put back together or a replacement.
Either way that is a very good looking rifle there!
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Post by Sixgun »

Alan Wood wrote:So is that the original but stock put back together or a replacement.
Either way that is a very good looking rifle there!

Its the original fruitwood stock. It was so dried out, it had the weight of paper. About a pint of wood conditioner put the moisture back in and a bottle of wood glue is holding it together! The color of the wood and the line cracks were so bad, I had to stain it dark with leather dye. (one can be seen on the wrist--another twin to that on the other side) It does not look as good as the picture but will as successive coats of stock oil are applied, it will all blend in and be somewhat acceptable in the looks department.--------Sixgun

On another note, the first model carbines did not have the standard panels on the side of the buttstock that are framiliar on other Savage 1899's.
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Post by harry »

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Post by O.S.O.K. »

That is really amazing... you saved it's life!
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Post by Sixgun »

harry wrote:For just a few more bucks:
http://www.gunstocksinc.com/web_pages/P ... stocks.htm
Thanks for the link! :D Here's my warped sense of thinking----Replacement stocks still need to be inletted and finished. Inletting on an original stock is already done so all I have to do is finish it but with different materials---glue, leather die, etc.

Besides, putting on a nice stock on an obviously refinished receiver/barrel is like putting a suit on a monkey, but that my way of thinking which is not normal. :D ------------Sixgun
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Post by earlmck »

Sixgun wrote:in a caliber that shoots the heavy bullets well, unlike the 30-30.
Your comment on the heavy bullets got my attention, Sixgun. Why are you figuring the 303 Savage does better with heavy bullets than the 30-30? Aren't they virtually identical case capacities with nice, long necks and with identical barrel twists?
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Post by Sixgun »

earlmck wrote:
Sixgun wrote:in a caliber that shoots the heavy bullets well, unlike the 30-30.
Your comment on the heavy bullets got my attention, Sixgun. Why are you figuring the 303 Savage does better with heavy bullets than the 30-30? Aren't they virtually identical case capacities with nice, long necks and with identical barrel twists?


Earl,
How am I suppossed to know? I'm half Italian.

Anyway, after reading many of Frank Marshalls articles, I finally put his findings to use after getting my own .303.

In single cartridge loading, it does not make any difference as you can seat the longer bullet out so the base does not extend below the neck, which is a sometimes (mostly) no-no with cast bullets. I found I could properly seat the long cast bullet in the .303 and still have it feed from the magazine, unlike the 30-30 and the '94 action. Its not much but it does make the difference.-------------------Sixgun
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Post by w30wcf »

Speaking “Frankly”
by Frank Marshall, Jr.


Heavy Bullets Enhance .30-30 Brush Guns

“I take the 311284 (220 grs) and file a .2” flat on the nose ….. To work these in my ‘94 Lever action the bullet base is slightly below the case neck but with the slightly compressed charge of 4350, that doesn’t seem to hurt hunting accuracy which is actually far better than any 170 gr bullet in my rifle.”

I personally have tried Frank Marshall's 220 gr 30-30 load and find that it works very well in the 30-30 leverguns and is very accurate with slow burning 4350 or H-414. :D

Left 311284 30-30 ala Frank Marshall
Right 311284 30-30 for single loading

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Post by earlmck »

Thanks for the enlightenment Sixgun and w30wcf. That makes plenty of sense -- less length restrictions in the 99 action vs the 94 or 336 so you can keep the cast bullet from seating too deep. I'm just looking for ideas to play with 'cause I also ended up with one of those little light 99 carbines in 303. Haven't shot it much but have found that it would shoot good enough to pop a grouse in the head.... if he was real close. Might be fun to try some of those 311284 casties.

Gotta' tell you Sixgun I admire your grit in rehabilitating that little carbine. I thought I might have paid a little too much for mine until I read your story. Now I think mine was pretty dang cheap: just cost me a few of those dollars that Bernenke is making worth less by the minute. Nothing like the elbow grease you have invested in yours. I'm betting you have the greater appreciation for yours!
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Post by Alan Wood »

Sixgun wrote:
Alan Wood wrote:So is that the original but stock put back together or a replacement.
Either way that is a very good looking rifle there!

Its the original fruitwood stock. It was so dried out, it had the weight of paper. About a pint of wood conditioner put the moisture back in and a bottle of wood glue is holding it together! The color of the wood and the line cracks were so bad, I had to stain it dark with leather dye. (one can be seen on the wrist--another twin to that on the other side) It does not look as good as the picture but will as successive coats of stock oil are applied, it will all blend in and be somewhat acceptable in the looks department.--------Sixgun

On another note, the first model carbines did not have the standard panels on the side of the buttstock that are framiliar on other Savage 1899's.
Very well done indeed! You brought the weapon back to life without having to replace workable (and I say workable very loosely here) parts!
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Post by Gobblerforge »

Sixgun wrote:
Alan Wood wrote:So is that the original but stock put back together or a replacement.
Either way that is a very good looking rifle there!


On another note, the first model carbines did not have the standard panels on the side of the buttstock that are framiliar on other Savage 1899's.
Actually they did have a panel but it was rounded like the 1895s, not pointed like the 1899s.
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Post by Sixgun »

w30wcf wrote:
“I take the 311284 (220 grs) and file a .2” flat on the nose ….. To work these in my ‘94 Lever action the bullet base is slightly below the case neck but with the slightly compressed charge of 4350, that doesn’t seem to hurt hunting accuracy which is actually far better than any 170 gr bullet in my rifle.”
I personally have tried Frank Marshall's 220 gr 30-30 load and find that it works very well in the 30-30 leverguns and is very accurate with slow burning 4350 or H-414. :D
Dang guys! (thanks :D ) Never mess with a cartridge historian! Good 'ole w30wcf forgot more than I'll ever know. But Jack, you still gotta grind down the tip of 311284. Well, I better shut up as you will have a snappy come back on that too! :D

Well, the excitement is almost over. I'll take the old '99 out this weekend and blast a few full loads out of her. Then its on to something else. --------think I'll start working on the Remington Targetmaster .22 single shot that came with the '99. Its in worse shape than the '99.-----------Sixgun
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Post by .45colt »

Great Post Sixgun. an amazing transformation. Thanks for All the information.
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Post by w30wcf »

Sixgun wrote: ...... But Jack, you still gotta grind down the tip of 311284.
-----------Sixgun
Howdy Sixgun,
Well....actually I use my lathe and as we know, a flat nosed cast bullet is better than a round nosed cast bullet for game. As Frank would say, "It won't stop for lunch." :D :D :D (Heavy .30 Cal bullets).

I have an "Old West" .30 caliber mold that makes a flat nosed 205 gr. bullet that when seated to crimp in the dirt catcher groove makes a 2.55" long 30-30 cartridge which is spot on the 30-30 factory OAL.

As you had indicated, for best accuracy, ideally the base of the bullet should be within the case neck. Many years ago when I was more actively competing in NRA High Power Silhouette with cast bullets, I was seeking a decent 500M Ram load for the Hunter class gun. According to the Hunter Class rules, all cartridges must be fed from the magazine.

The Rem 788 30-30 I was using was limited to 30-30 factory length cartridges and I needed a 200+ gr cast bullet with a decent nose profile (higher b.c.)for more reliable knock down of the 55# target. The Lyman 311644 (202 grs in w.w.) filled the bill, but it had to be deep seated....below the case neck.

Ole' "FRANKLY" was spot on with his choice of slow burning powders. I used a capacity load of H414 which pushed the 202 gr bullet for a bit over 2,000 f.p.s. and at 100 yards the recipe would produce groups in the 1" range. Problem solved. :D

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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Catshooter »

wc30wcf,

You've a lathe, you could do this with your mould:

Image

That is a Lyman 452374 that I wanted to add a flat to. Works very well.


Cat
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by JDL »

Sixgun wrote:
olyinaz wrote:Pretty amazing comeback there. If you get her field ready it'll all be worth it. How did you rehab the hammer and sear for a safe trigger?
Oly
Oly,
I really lucked out on the hammer/sear thingy. The front face of the hammer and the sear were untouched by rust but the sides were pitted, where it don't matter. :D

She's field ready now. :D


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My hat is off to you Sixgun! Really brought her back from the dead and I sincerely hope you do get an elk with it.
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Ji in Hawaii »

All I can say is WOW. Can't wait to see her with furniture attached. :wink:
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E hele mua nō lākou, ʻaʻole hoʻi e maʻule.
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Teton »

very nice save!
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by M. M. Wright »

I like it! I'm always trying to save some old Colt SAA that would be better as a wall hanger. Can be done but is costly.
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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by w30wcf »

Catshooter wrote:wc30wcf,

You've a lathe, you could do this with your mould:

Image

That is a Lyman 452374 that I wanted to add a flat to. Works very well.
Cat
Cat,
Great idea! I have something similar in a hollow point mold. I made another pin to make bullets without the hollow point when desired.

I don't make that many 311284's with the flat point as compared to the many more I shoot as is. If I were to make a flat pointed 311284. I probably would convert the mold to nose pour since the nose of the bullet is very close to the end of the mold.

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Re: 1899 Savage.....JB Weld......Sweat.***Pic Heavy***

Post by Sixgun »

Catshooter wrote:wc30wcf,

You've a lathe, you could do this with your mould:

Image

That is a Lyman 452374 that I wanted to add a flat to. Works very well.


Cat
Thats one piece of equipment I need to learn to use---well, I know how to make junk with 'em, I'm just not good with it. Along with welding, I need to broaden my horizons.----------Sixgun
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