Real-life kill zone analysis and question
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- Senior Levergunner
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Real-life kill zone analysis and question
After butchering my mulie buck I took a tape measure to the chest cavity to determine a real kill zone. I measured the distance from the bottom of the spine to just inside the brisket, even with the point of the shoulder. I then measured from the point of the shoulder rearward to the diaphragm.
Keeping in mind that lungs aren't square, I determined a conservative kill zone figure of 8" x 11". So if a guy can hit a regular piece of paper reliably at hunting distances he should be in good shape.
How does this fit with others' experience?
Quinn
Keeping in mind that lungs aren't square, I determined a conservative kill zone figure of 8" x 11". So if a guy can hit a regular piece of paper reliably at hunting distances he should be in good shape.
How does this fit with others' experience?
Quinn
We are determined that before the sun sets on this terrible struggle, our flag will be recognized throughout the world as a symbol of freedom on the one hand, of overwhelming power on the other.
General George C. Marshall, 1942
General George C. Marshall, 1942
I use a 8" paper plate as a minimum myself finding round targets easier to mentally grasp as a target keeping things a little tighter though a 8 x 11 should work fine if that's what you're used to. Your maximum range should be whatever distance you can consistant place ALL shots into a 8" paper plate.
I guess if every deer presented a nice broadside shot an 8X11 paper would work. In my experience thats not the case & I find myself trying to thread a bullet thru trees & brush at an uncooperative walking quatering away target in the woods. Good thing is most all my deer were taken under 100 yards, many under 50. I like the 8" plate thing better.
I think you are right on for an animal between 150-200 pounds, but I refer to your "kill zone" as the "vital zone" (6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of other).
I think the 8"X11" should be the boundaries to start within during shooting practice. However, the goal should be to keep shots in something like 4"X6"
I think of it like this:
While you can and may kill it with a hit in the vital zone, your "hit zone" - the place where you can consistently keep a bullet at any given range you will shoot- should be half the size of the vital zone.
Clearly the smaller the animal the more capable you need to be before pulling the trigger.
A 70 pound blackbuck antelope has a 6" high X 8" wide vital zone broadside. An unbelievable number of customers MISS these animals shooting offhand, at 100 yards or less. I have never had a customer completely MISS a bison at 100 yards or less. What I do notice is that I may say to hit the point of the shoulder and the shot will be a few inches behind or above the shoulder. The larger vital area was favorable for a shot that was pulled a few inches because the bisons vital zone is so big.
There are some circumstances where I would take, or urge a capable customer to take a shot other than broadside. This is when the vital zone just became much smaller than it was broadside.
You are certainly headed in the right direction. Just the fact that you have the interest and took the time to measure your mulies vital zones demonstrates you are serious about being the best field shot you can be.
I think the 8"X11" should be the boundaries to start within during shooting practice. However, the goal should be to keep shots in something like 4"X6"
I think of it like this:
While you can and may kill it with a hit in the vital zone, your "hit zone" - the place where you can consistently keep a bullet at any given range you will shoot- should be half the size of the vital zone.
Clearly the smaller the animal the more capable you need to be before pulling the trigger.
A 70 pound blackbuck antelope has a 6" high X 8" wide vital zone broadside. An unbelievable number of customers MISS these animals shooting offhand, at 100 yards or less. I have never had a customer completely MISS a bison at 100 yards or less. What I do notice is that I may say to hit the point of the shoulder and the shot will be a few inches behind or above the shoulder. The larger vital area was favorable for a shot that was pulled a few inches because the bisons vital zone is so big.
There are some circumstances where I would take, or urge a capable customer to take a shot other than broadside. This is when the vital zone just became much smaller than it was broadside.
You are certainly headed in the right direction. Just the fact that you have the interest and took the time to measure your mulies vital zones demonstrates you are serious about being the best field shot you can be.
- Old Time Hunter
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- Griff
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I ain't sure what size, but I always thought my paper plates were 9". What I use most often unless I happen to be a regular range, then I use an B-27 target (if they allow 'em).
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
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There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
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SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
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- Senior Levergunner
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One of the reasons for my analysis is for my nephew, who recently turned 16. He has yet to shoot a deer but he realy wants to. Several times at the range his groups would be all over the place. When I would talk to him about the mechanics of his shooting he described his anxiety over his self-imposed requirement of hitting the bullseye. This anxiety translated into inconsistency and poor form. I always called it "over-aiming," where stress over marksmanship in a young shooter resulted in poor shooting. Now, I'm not talking about 4" groups being okay, but I was able to communicate to him that the kill zone on a deer-sized animal was fairly sizable (used the 8" pie plate example). Once he realized that he could miss "a little bit" and still kill cleanly he relaxed dramatically and tightened his groups 'way up. I bought one of those deer posters and mounted it on a piece of plywood. He shot at it from the prone position at 200 yards and hit the kill zone 12 of 14 times (the other 2 were called misses). He's off in Wyoming on a deer hunt and his confidence soared sky-high.
As much as I like the paper plate idea I think I prefer the 8x11 better. The vitals are more of a rectangle than a square, but in reality we're not talking about that much difference. If you can't make it with a paper plate you're not going to make it with a sheet of paper, either.
Quinn
As much as I like the paper plate idea I think I prefer the 8x11 better. The vitals are more of a rectangle than a square, but in reality we're not talking about that much difference. If you can't make it with a paper plate you're not going to make it with a sheet of paper, either.
Quinn
We are determined that before the sun sets on this terrible struggle, our flag will be recognized throughout the world as a symbol of freedom on the one hand, of overwhelming power on the other.
General George C. Marshall, 1942
General George C. Marshall, 1942
One thing I like to do for beginning hunters is make a sort of lifesized deer/antelope sillouette from cardboard mount it on stakes , and set at 200ish yds. It helps in that it gets them to quit trying to hit a "bullseye" and try and aim for a kill zone.
A tip of the ol hat to you for your efforts with your nephew. Creating responsible folks to carryon our hunting heritage is very commendable IMHO.
A tip of the ol hat to you for your efforts with your nephew. Creating responsible folks to carryon our hunting heritage is very commendable IMHO.
- marlinman93
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Your kill zone is adequate for any deer, if he caliber is correct, and distance is the same or smaller than the practice range.
I try to keep my shots under 2" at 100 yds., as often my shots are a bit farther, and if the group opens up, I'm still good. I do a fair amount of range work, but also head to the woods to shoot casually in a more realistic setting. I shoot at various targets, and then range them to see if my "guesstimate" of the yardage i close to reality. I find I inevitably judge distances farther than they really are by around 10% or so.
I try to keep my shots under 2" at 100 yds., as often my shots are a bit farther, and if the group opens up, I'm still good. I do a fair amount of range work, but also head to the woods to shoot casually in a more realistic setting. I shoot at various targets, and then range them to see if my "guesstimate" of the yardage i close to reality. I find I inevitably judge distances farther than they really are by around 10% or so.