Garand diagnosis needed please

[awp101]

Due to stories of the "M1 thumb", I was under the impression that once the en-bloc is pushed all the way the bolt releases and you have to get your thumb out of the way quick, fast and in a hurry.

I've noticed my bolt seems to need a nudge before releasing. I figured something was wearing out but didn't feel like tracing the issue down.

This past week, one of the computer guys has been re-watching Band of Brothers here at the shop and I usually wander over for the firefights. I found a couple of scenes where one of the soldiers would hit the charging handle with either the edge of his hand or the heel of his palm after reloading and I realized that's what I have to do.

So my question is, which is normal?

Thinking it through, having the bolt release as soon as the en-bloc is pushed in makes for a fast reload but a potential injury so I can't see that as a good thing. Did the "M1 thumb" occur once the parts were worn out? My Dad warned me of the "M1 thumb" when I got mine (he carried one ROTC and Basic 1960-64) so it's feasible to me the worn parts condition could be feasible as well. I know my M16A2 in Basic (1996) was a reconditioned A1 and it would go full auto in the "burst" setting due to worn parts. Fun, but don't let the Drill Sergeant catch you...

[Yance]

Yep, that's "normal".

When inserting the clip the karate chop edge of your hand rests against the charging handle holding it in the rearmost position until the clip lock into place. "Snap" your hand forward and up out of the way and the top round will usually chamber. If you're a little slow the tension on the top round will usually hold the bolt to the rear requiring a bit of "forward assist".

I just got my .35 Whelen Garand barrel back from Jess, now I just have to decide which of my two gets to wear it.<G>

[Cliff]

The Garand Thumb is usually caused by an empty rifle. No clip and no ammo. Usually when inspecting or examining an M1 Garand some people are not holding the charging handle back with their hand when they push the follower down. This results in the bolt slamming home the way it is intended. For loading it can happen but pushing the clip home properly will allow you to clear your thumb before it gets slammed. It is not a big thing anyway. Sometimes on a strange Garand I will use my left hand to pinch or apply pressure to the operating rod under the front handguard, preventing the bolt from moving. When ready I just loosen my grip and the bolt slams home. Old trick learned years back on a Drill Team. We would say it is gas operated, pull the bolt back, squeeze the operating rod to prevent it from going forward, while preping the bolt to be released. Then gently blow into the action, while releasing the pressure on the operating rod. Kids loved it. Just a bit of trivia. Good Luck and enjoy your Garand.

[awp101]

OK, so operator error can cause either issue. That's good to know, thanks!

Yance, tell me more about this .35 Whelen Garand please! I presume you have to stick to 150g .30-06 operating pressures to avoid op-rod damage or is there some beefing up done as well?

Gas operated...I like that!

Mine is a old Blue Sky import that I got back in the early 90s. The barrel is on it's last legs and I've been debating saving up for a new barrel, going to .308 or just accepting it for what it is. If I get a second (which is possible down the road), I'll leave the better one original and make something special out of the other.

[Yance]

Google "35 Whelen Garand" and .358-'06 Garand and there's lots of info. (Nothing new under the sun)

With the increase in bore space charges can be upped under 225-250 gr bullets and still maintain safe operating pressures. I personally don't want to have to buy too many op rods at $125.00-$150.00 each!<G>

Have two more blacksmithing gigs this month so maybe after next Saturday I can get back to a little shooting.