Ot- Question for you home gunsmith types

[2ndovc]

I wanted to upgrade one of the boys shotguns. I gave him a
High Standard pump 12b and got his H&R back.

The H&R is in pretty decent shape but has a rediculously long barrel.

I'd like to shorten it to a 18 1/2" length for a pack/ truck gun.

It's about a $100 shotgun so i don't figure that I can screw it up too much if
I try to do it myself.



I'm assuming I need a good hacksaw and metal blade.
Any tricks to keeping a straight cut?
Never been much good at metal working.

I have files to clean up the edges.
Also want to reinstall a front bead but want to use a bigger one.
I have tap and die sets and have done that before (though not on a firearm).

I guess I've just talked my way through the whole thing.
Anything I'm missing?


What's the worst that can happen?


jb

[NonPCnraRN]

The worst that can happen is that you will need a new barrel! I don'tknow if this would work but would a pipe cutter make a straighter cut?

[El Chivo]

my only suggestion would be to touch off the burrs on the inside of the barrel with a reamer of some sort, so it's uniform. If you try using straight files on that it won't be perfect.

There must be some sort of stone burnisher bit that you could buy.

Also, with a hacksaw you'll never get a perfectly straight cut, but you could take a flat sharpening stone and sand it flat after you cut.

[Hobie]

Start at 22" so that if you don't do it right you can take a bit more off and do it right.

It will work a treat though if you get a choke on it...

[Idiot]

First make a line or mark between the center of your rear sight groove and your front sight to properly index the new front sight placement. Then cut the barrel with a pipe cutter (go slow and you may want to put piece of electrical tape around the barrel where the cutter frame rests to avoid scratches). I use a cone stone bit (for a drill, but I do it by hand) to lightly smooth the inside barrel cut and a light file to round the edge of the outside cut. Drill a new hole for the front sight and tap it to re-install the old one. Put a little cold blue around the exposed steel at the muzzle and you are done. The whole effort takes about one hour. Have fun.

Oh, and remember, you now have an open choked barrel and your patterns will spread real fast.

[Idiot]

Nice Handi Hobie.

[2ndovc]

Thanks guys!

Hobie,

Is that choke threaded on?

jb

[adirondakjack]

Before cutting, use a straight edge along the top of the barrel, from the bead back to the middle of the top of the receiver, and mark the centerline where the new bead will be.
Then ya gotta commence to cutting.

Though I have used a homemade marking gauge to get a straight line on a tapered barrel, I got a tip from another kitchen table gunsmith a while back.

Get a heater hose clamp and put it on the part of the barrel you intend to cut off, and use the side of the clamp as a cutting guide. I'd say cut it to 18.5" and ya got plenty of room to file and get the end cleaned up. Put a NEW hacksaw blade in, secure the gun so the barrel is level, and cut along the clamp. Then simply use a wide, sharp flat file to clean up the end, then maybe put a tiny bit of a radius on the outside. A bit of automotive type aluminum oxide sandpaper wrapped around a dowel will clean up the inside part of the cut at the muzzle.

Then you can use a drill bit to make a hole HALFWAY through the barrel from the top, sized so the stem of the bead will about press fit, and epoxy the bead in place, or have a smith do the bead, or buy the proper drill and bottom tap to thread the hole. The end of the cut barrel could use a dab of cold blue, or simply hit it with a black permanent marker and call it good.

I did one using the hacksaw, file, and epoxy the bead method and it has held up well.

[CEMENTHEAD]

+ 1 on the pipe cutter....works well. I would show you the finished product, however I lost my H&R in a canoe rollover 3 years ago...... Thanks, Tom

[O.S.O.K.]

Yep, I shortened a shotty barrel using a pipe cutter and it worked jest fine. Installed a glowworm front sight bead.

[Ben_Rumson]

I have found that applying a little cutting oil or regular motor oil (if you don't have cutting oil) reduces greatly the cutting effort and will help you to more easily follow the guide or line.. Be sure to use the finest cutting blade you can find i.e. most teeth per inch...The hose clamp idea is a great idea... Do your best to get it on square to the muzzle.
If you use a pipe cutter...After you have an well established groove cut, oil applied to the cutter will also reduce the cutting effort.. Good luck!

[Modoc ED]

As Hobie said, "start at a longer length in case you don't get it straight. If you start out at exactly 18" and the cut is not true, you can easily end up with a non-legal barrel.

To keep the cut as straight as possibe,

you can take one of those metal hose clamps and put it around the barrel with the edged where you want to cut and bear against the edge of the hose clamp with the hacksaw blade as you cut.

you can use a plumbers pipe cutter and use it for a straight cut. Just be sure the cutting blade is made of hardened steel.

[mikld]

I would say the pipe cutter (c-clamp type) will roll a large burr on the inside of the barrel. Also with a tapered barrel the pipe cutter may want to wander towards the small side. I like the hose clamp and hack saw idea (use at least 32 teeth per inch blades).

[Modoc ED]

I would say the pipe cutter (c-clamp type) will roll a large burr on the inside of the barrel. Also with a tapered barrel the pipe cutter may want to wander towards the small side. I like the hose clamp and hack saw idea (use at least 32 teeth per inch blades).

As far back as he's cutting, the taper shouldn't be an issue if he's careful. I've cut off several barrels over the years with a plumbers pipe cutter but as with any other tool, care and attention to detail is critical.

The hose clamp works great. Simple and quick to use.

[AJMD429]

Also it probably won't be an issue with a normal stock, but the overall length has to meet federal minimum - 27" or something like that - check to be sure.

[2ndovc]

Also it probably won't be an issue with a normal stock, but the overall length has to meet federal minimum - 27" or something like that - check to be sure.

Good point. I was thinking of shortening the stock as well.
I'm thinking now that it just needs a new pad.

I had one w/ an 18" barrel but I gave it to my Dad for his
sailboat cruise around the Carribean. If I get it back I seriously doubt
it will be in the same condition as it was when it left.

jb

[Sixgun]

Jason,
In addition to indexing the marks for the new front sight, I would lop it off with a metal cutting blade on your Skill saw or attach one of those blades on your bench grinder.

Yea, you could get a small "square" and then make up for the taper, but I would just go by eye. You would be amazed at how accurate a human eye is. Get you Dremel tool out with a drum sander and clean up the burrs or just get a wooden dowel and wrap some 240 grit around it.

Hey, it won't be a 1000 yard benchrest gun.

Touch it up with some cold blue.


Or...................scour the internet for a 20 in. slug/skeet barrel. Probably can be had for $50 and then you would have a choke in it---if that matters, especially for two legged varmints --------------Sixgun

[Hobie]

Thanks guys!

Hobie,

Is that choke threaded on?

jb

No sir. That is Lyman's version of the Polychoke.

[Pete44ru]

For a truck gun, I wouldn't even bother with a front sight/bead.

I've made up several for folks as a house gun, with just a renewable strip of 1/2" wide white surgical/medical adhesive tape/bandage applied down the center/top of the barrel from front to rear.

It shows up plenty fast for quick shooting, and is accurate enough for the work.

.

[Modoc ED]

For a truck gun, I wouldn't even bother with a front sight/bead.

I've made up several for folks as a house gun, with just a renewable strip of 1/2" wide white surgical/medical adhesive tape/bandage applied down the center/top of the barrel from front to rear.

It shows up plenty fast for quick shooting, and is accurate enough for the work.

.

That'll work. I shortened (cut off) a 28" ribbed barrel to 19" and left the rib on. Was going to install a bead but the rib worked so well I never got around to installing a bead.

[Gun Smith]

MEASURE twice -- CUT once!