OT - Mechanic stuff -
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- Griff
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OT - Mechanic stuff -
Hey, I just finished mowin' part my 14 arces of pasture around the house, (have about 4 to go & will do it in the cool of tomorrow morning). I use a '69 Ford 3000 Tractor (3 cyl. gas). I usually mow in 4th gear @ ~1600 rpm, (6' brush hog), but this was mostly weeds and spend most of the day in 5th, the tractor only laboring in the thickest patches and uphill around the stock tank. Goosin' it up to about 1800 rpm cut all of it.
It got quite hot and I had to fill the radiator once to get done. It wasn't hot enough to exceed the cap pressure, but... about an hour before I added amost 2 gallons of 50/50 blend of antifreeze & water. It's pretty tight quarters and I couldn't see a leak, although the bottom of the radiator appeared wet.
That I know of, this tractor's engine has never been apart, and only worked on by myself or the previous owner... I've replaced the starter, generator, starter solenoid and a water pump in the last 17 years I've owned it. When I shut it down, the thermostat was fully opened as I could see the water "pulsing" in the top tank, (yea I opened it up to see how much water'd been lost. When I last filled it, it was too the brim, (maybe a little too much) and when I checked after finishing up it was still about ¼" from the top; just really rusty looking.
I know that a murky brown color is indicative of oil in the water (head gasket, cracked head, etc.) but this is rather a red color, or very dark orange that I'm associating with rust. The radiator's been fixed once or twice, but not since I've owned it. Any of you mechanical types have a long range opinion? 'Sides buyin' a new tractor!
It got quite hot and I had to fill the radiator once to get done. It wasn't hot enough to exceed the cap pressure, but... about an hour before I added amost 2 gallons of 50/50 blend of antifreeze & water. It's pretty tight quarters and I couldn't see a leak, although the bottom of the radiator appeared wet.
That I know of, this tractor's engine has never been apart, and only worked on by myself or the previous owner... I've replaced the starter, generator, starter solenoid and a water pump in the last 17 years I've owned it. When I shut it down, the thermostat was fully opened as I could see the water "pulsing" in the top tank, (yea I opened it up to see how much water'd been lost. When I last filled it, it was too the brim, (maybe a little too much) and when I checked after finishing up it was still about ¼" from the top; just really rusty looking.
I know that a murky brown color is indicative of oil in the water (head gasket, cracked head, etc.) but this is rather a red color, or very dark orange that I'm associating with rust. The radiator's been fixed once or twice, but not since I've owned it. Any of you mechanical types have a long range opinion? 'Sides buyin' a new tractor!
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
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There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
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SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
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There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Griff,
Take the radiator off and take it to a radiator shop they can rought it or fix it.
Or at least tell if you are on the path of true enlightenment.
Take the radiator off and take it to a radiator shop they can rought it or fix it.
Or at least tell if you are on the path of true enlightenment.
- Griff
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
That's the plan... for tomorrow afternoon. Wanna knock down the rest of the greenery... er... weeds whilst I'm home. Then if the radiator shop wants to keep it overnight I ain't out nuttin' right away. Jes' gonna hafta watch that temp guage close.mescalero1 wrote:Griff,
Take the radiator off and take it to a radiator shop they can rought it or fix it.
Or at least tell if you are on the path of true enlightenment.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
I'd bet on a radiator problem. Oil in the radiator would look like dirty mayonnaise not rusty water.
Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
While you have the radiator out, take out the thermostat as well and stick a garden hose in the radiator hoses and try and flush out as much of the rust as you can. Try and flush it through both directions if possible. I would also put in a new thermostat since you'll have it out already.
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- Andrew
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Yep. Also, check your oil if you haven't already; just for fun.TedH wrote:While you have the radiator out, take out the thermostat as well and stick a garden hose in the radiator hoses and try and flush out as much of the rust as you can. Try and flush it through both directions if possible. I would also put in a new thermostat since you'll have it out already.
- gunslinger598
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
It sure sounds like your rad. needs attention.
Check to make sure the cooling fins aren't being plugged with debris as you mow. I've had that happen to me a couple of times. It may help you get through the job until you have time to pay proper attention to the problem.
Check to make sure the cooling fins aren't being plugged with debris as you mow. I've had that happen to me a couple of times. It may help you get through the job until you have time to pay proper attention to the problem.
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Get a PH test kit when you refill the radiator...Be SURE to put in an additive that will prevent the electralisis (sic) that happens when the coolant hits the superheated exterior of the cylinder sleeves. Any good diesel supply shop will have the test strips avaliable (along with the additives)
Without this additive, the cylinder sleeves become pitted in short order untill finally the pitting penetrates the sleeve...doing an inframe is always a PITA and can easilly be avoided.
Just my observations from running the diesels HARD under adverse conditions.
Scotty
Without this additive, the cylinder sleeves become pitted in short order untill finally the pitting penetrates the sleeve...doing an inframe is always a PITA and can easilly be avoided.
Just my observations from running the diesels HARD under adverse conditions.
Scotty
Porquipines are peacefull creatures but God still saw fit to give them quills
- marlinman93
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Isn't this a gas engine?Coldfingers wrote:Get a PH test kit when you refill the radiator...Be SURE to put in an additive that will prevent the electralisis (sic) that happens when the coolant hits the superheated exterior of the cylinder sleeves. Any good diesel supply shop will have the test strips avaliable (along with the additives)
Without this additive, the cylinder sleeves become pitted in short order untill finally the pitting penetrates the sleeve...doing an inframe is always a PITA and can easilly be avoided.
Just my observations from running the diesels HARD under adverse conditions.
Scotty
Before you go too far, be sure to check your dipstick or oil filler cap to see if they have any milky residue, which is a sure sign of water getting into the emgine. This could be where it's going and that would mean a crack or a blown headgasket.
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Red is rust.
If it's not the Radiator leaking, try one of the aluminum powder sealers. I put some in a car with a cracked cooling passage in the head and drove it another 80k. I think the one from Barrs is approved by automakers.
I'm a big fan of Redline Water Wetter when you get the leak fixed. It is a surfactant that reduces the size of the bubbles forming on the cylinder walls, cooling stuff down more efficently.
If it's not the Radiator leaking, try one of the aluminum powder sealers. I put some in a car with a cracked cooling passage in the head and drove it another 80k. I think the one from Barrs is approved by automakers.
I'm a big fan of Redline Water Wetter when you get the leak fixed. It is a surfactant that reduces the size of the bubbles forming on the cylinder walls, cooling stuff down more efficently.
Kind regards,
Tycer
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- Griff
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Thanks guys. MM93, yep, gas engine & nope, no milky color to the oil, just black, probably need to change that also. Knew you'd have some good ideas. Yep, new hoses, thermostat and cap.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Lots of good advice there Griff. I agree,get the leak fixed and flush it out good. I was a Ford tractor dealer mechanic for many years around when the 3000 was new. The gas tractor is the hardest to work on with the battery box right on top in the way and the hood bolts sometimes are a bear to deal with.
Ford tractors don`t have cylinder sleeves. They are bored over size when they need it. Wet sleeve engines do have electrolisis (sp?) problems though. Note, the pistons,rods,and valve components of the diesel fords are the same for 3-4 and 6 cylinder engines although the 3000 gas is an odd duck all to itself
I think it is just full of rust. Have fun!!
Ford tractors don`t have cylinder sleeves. They are bored over size when they need it. Wet sleeve engines do have electrolisis (sp?) problems though. Note, the pistons,rods,and valve components of the diesel fords are the same for 3-4 and 6 cylinder engines although the 3000 gas is an odd duck all to itself
I think it is just full of rust. Have fun!!
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Sumtimez i am a bit stoopid
Would not be the first time someone had to ignore my ignernt ramblin...
Scotty
Would not be the first time someone had to ignore my ignernt ramblin...
Scotty
Porquipines are peacefull creatures but God still saw fit to give them quills
- Griff
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Don't worry, happens to everyone... I think...Coldfingers wrote:Sumtimez i am a bit stoopid
Would not be the first time someone had to ignore my ignernt ramblin...
Scotty
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
-
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- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:52 pm
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Coldfingers, Scotty, Sorry,I did not mean to belittle your answer in the least. That is many times good advice you gave.
I did see one ford tractor with sleeves in it. A brand new 100+ hp 4x4
that was obviously a sick bay reject from the factory, Not only were the cylinders sleeved but the crank and rods had 3-4 different sized bearings in it We could not get it to hold head gaskets due to improper deck hight of the sleeves. Ford ended up replacing the entire engine just before the owner filed a suit.
I did see one ford tractor with sleeves in it. A brand new 100+ hp 4x4
that was obviously a sick bay reject from the factory, Not only were the cylinders sleeved but the crank and rods had 3-4 different sized bearings in it We could not get it to hold head gaskets due to improper deck hight of the sleeves. Ford ended up replacing the entire engine just before the owner filed a suit.
- kimwcook
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Hey Griff, if the rad turns out not looking like it was the problem, you might have a cylinder head leak. Now, most of the time you'll over heat if you have a head gasket blown. But, I have seen the cooling system pressure up enough to push the coolant into the cylinder and vaporize it and not overheat due to the leak, but, rather when the coolant got down too far. You might also have a lower radiator hose collapsing if it's a littlle old and the innerspring has rusted out. Don't see that one very often either.
Old Law Dawg
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
When I start rambleing, sometimes I can catch myself..................... sometimes
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Chuck...didn't take any offense at all. Just glad I warshed my feets
Porquipines are peacefull creatures but God still saw fit to give them quills
- Griff
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Thanks for that reminder Kim... guess I'd really better do a compression check and make sure... if I'm going to tear into it, I might as well make sure I cure it... not just band-aid the thing.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession!
AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
If antifreeze is going into your cylinders per a bad head gasket , your exhaust will have a sweet smell. If the fins to your radiator are leaking it usually evaporates too fast to see where it is coming from. Also on cars if the water pump seal is bad . Anti freeze will leak out the seep hole in the pump. In fact I have to change the water pump in the wife's van this weekend because of it.
It's the time of year that my horses are finding every patch of burdock in the pasture while they're foraging for food.
It's the time of year that my horses are finding every patch of burdock in the pasture while they're foraging for food.
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Don't forget to check the kanewter valve and starboard ailertuder...
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits.
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Got to have a Jones for this
Jones for that
This running with the Joneses boy
Just ain't where it's at
-Mark Twain
Proverbs 3:5; Philippians 4:13
Got to have a Jones for this
Jones for that
This running with the Joneses boy
Just ain't where it's at
Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
I worked in a radiator shop right out of high school. Back then we used to pull the radiators out of the vehicles and put it in a hot bath mixture of water and muratic acid to clean all the scale out. Whith a really old radiator that would often open up so many leaks where the core was rotten you couldn't fix them all and a new core had to be installed. Now days with out all the equipment I drain my cooling system and fill it with a little Tide detergent, then run it up the road a few miles to get everything hot, then come back and flush the system out with cold water and run it up the road again with the clear water in it. After I've done that a few times to get all the Tide out, I put in fresh antifreeze and call it good.
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Re: OT - Mechanic stuff -
Griff,
What's the verdict on the tractor, or how big of a dent in your wallet is it going to make?
What's the verdict on the tractor, or how big of a dent in your wallet is it going to make?