Uberti 1873 Rifle - firing pin replacement

[1988rrc]

anyone have any info on how to replace the firing pin in the Uberti 1873 rifle?
any words of warning or wisdom?

[J Miller]

1888rrc,

I believe forum members Griff and Nata Kiowa Jones ~aka~ Steve Young at Steve's Guns does.
http://www.stevesgunz.com/ . But alas, I myself have no idea.

Joe

[Griff]

I "think" I can help.
1. Make sure rifle is UNloaded. Close action.
2. Remove side plates, (watch for falling toggle links - there is a rght & left side issue).
3. Give a slight forward push to hammer, this should relieve pressure on pin in rear portion of the bolt for it to drop out. Mine'll fall out easilly, if yours doesn't, the end of a paper clip should be small enough to push it out.
4. Pull hammer back to full cock and a little beyond, this should provide enough clearance to remove rear part of firing pin.
5. Stand rifle on buttstock, this should allow front halfof firing pin enough gravitational force to fall out!
6. Reverse attitude of rifle (set on muzzle).
7. drop in new front half of firing pin.
8. Reverse steps 4 thru 2.

[Lefty Dude]

There is a firing pin extension behind the firing pin. The extension is held in place with the FP by a small drift pin. I use my 1/16" drift punch to take it out. To pull the Bolt you must remove the dust cover, be careful you do not loose the dust cover pressure ball and spring.

When you pull those side plates, the guts fall out.

If you have never taken a 73 apart before I suggest you have some one show you, Or buy a DVD.

I was fortunate to attend a Seminar held at the SASS Convention two years ago. The topic was the disassembly-assembly of the Marlin 94 and the Uberti 66-73 rifles. It was conducted by Jim Bowie of the Cowboys & Indians Store.

[Griff]

Lefty, there ya go usin' the proper names for things again. One thing I forgot, is to watch out for the firing pin spring. Mine is like the originals, sans the spring so I forgot it in my post above. Parts #'s, proper nomenclature and diagram are availsble @: VTI.

[1988rrc]

do you have access to the pin without removal of the dust cover? does the bolt need to be removed to replace the firing pin?

[Griff]

do you have access to the pin without removal of the dust cover? does the bolt need to be removed to replace the firing pin?

Edit:I only answered the 2nd question; so, to properly respond to both questions: Yes. Nope.

[Griff]

do you have access to the pin without removal of the dust cover? does the bolt need to be removed to replace the firing pin?

Check your PMs.

[Lefty Dude]

It might be a good idea if ya ain't cleaned the piece in awhile to pull the bolt, clean the enerds and lube the Gun. To get the enerds out. There are two screws on the bottom of the receiver. loosen and remove the screws, they hold the springs for the lifter and the other is on the lever Cam. then remove the lever bolt & lever. once the toggles & link pin is removed then remove the lifter from the carrier. The carrier drops out the bottom. For the removal of the Bolt the dust cover must be slid to the rear. To remove the dust cover remove the little screw, this holds a small wedge that is the bolt stop. do not loose this wedge. Slide the dust cover to the rear when the screw hole contacts and the pressure ball drops in the hole go no further. unless you need to remove the cover completely. The ball has a spring under it and this will hold the cover in place. To remove the cover continue the slide rear-ward and place a finger in front of the cover to prevent the ball from launching by it's spring to the Black hole of Hell, where it will be lost forever. The cover, ball & spring can all be removed at this point. On a tear down I usually do not remover the cover completely, it's not necessary.
The trigger & hammer group is seperate. This is held in place by two screws at the rear of the receiver. (one on each side) When removed this allows the module Trigger & hammer group to be removed with a downward movement. With this removed you can lube the trigger and such. This is also where the hammer spring resides. There are adjustment screws for the hammer tension. The one screw holds the spring in place the other is a tension adjustment.

A good quality grease should be used on the toggle links, carrier lifter and the cams where the spring ride. Keep the brass carrier lube and oil free, also the sides of the receiver the carrier contacts. grease the carrier lifter end that goes in the brass carrier block. Some suggest the automotive Lubriplate engine assembly grease as the lube to use. I use Tetra Gun Grease. A light oil, like Rem oil on the Bolt glides, firing pin extension, trigger, etc.

It is not a hard disassembly just go slow and remember where each piece is from. For me the 73 is simpler than the marlin 94.

Best way, buy the DVD Video.

[adirondakjack]

If ya own a '73, ya ought to get familiar with the guts of it.

If at all possible, have somebody walk ya through it. I literally learned in one sitting when a pard let me borrow his rifle and we installed the Cowboy .45 Special conversion carrier in it. Odd as it may seem, I designed the carrier, but had never seen the insides of a '73.

It's NOT hard, but it is DIFFERENT from other guns you may have had apart.

Using a padded table large enough to work on, lay the gun muzzle to the left and take the side plate off without lifting the gun off the table. gently work the lever and observe the links, carrier lifter arm and the springs that provide resistance and "timing" to the finger lever and lifter arm. Now ya have seen it work. It ain't brain science or rocket surgery. Like the man said, if ya wanna take the bolt out, ya have to remove the dust cover. Don't lose the detent ball and spring. If ya lose or mangle any parts (especially the butter-soft screws), VTI is yer friend. They have em all.

Clean it up, lube the links, lifter arm and slot in the bottom of the carrier with gun grease, and put er back together.

[Lefty Dude]

If ya own a '73, ya ought to get familiar with the guts of it.

If at all possible, have somebody walk ya through it. I literally learned in one sitting when a pard let me borrow his rifle and we installed the Cowboy .45 Special conversion carrier in it. Odd as it may seem, I designed the carrier, but had never seen the insides of a '73.

It's NOT hard, but it is DIFFERENT from other guns you may have had apart.

Using a padded table large enough to work on, lay the gun muzzle to the left and take the side plate off without lifting the gun off the table. gently work the lever and observe the links, carrier lifter arm and the springs that provide resistance and "timing" to the finger lever and lifter arm. Now ya have seen it work. It ain't brain science or rocket surgery. Like the man said, if ya wanna take the bolt out, ya have to remove the dust cover. Don't lose the detent ball and spring. If ya lose or mangle any parts (especially the butter-soft screws), VTI is yer friend. They have em all.

Clean it up, lube the links, lifter arm and slot in the bottom of the carrier with gun grease, and put er back together.

Hi, Jack;

So do ya think with one of those short carriers of yours, with one in my 73 44-40 could I shoot 44 Russians in the piece

What ya think

[adirondakjack]

Howdy Lefty.

Now, lemme preface my remarks with a quote from one of my favorite TV characters (Andy Sipowicz) who was asked how he quit drinking (he was shot several times and nearly died). You could, but I don't recommend the approach.

AAMOF the carrier was prototyped by my partner in crime who is doing the caliper and chip work (I'm a big paper and fat crayon kinda designer) using .44 Russian in .44-40. He reported it works at CAS levels (I wouldn't push em), but ya end up with some severely goofy looking brass. If ya absolutely MUST run .44 instead of .45 (Har!) I'd much rather see .44 Russian run PROPERLY in .44 special chambers

So, for anybody who reads this, .44 russian in .44-40 is not a real good idea. Like .44 special in a .45 Colt rifle, it will fire, but yer gonna get back some seriously funky brass.