Shooting with a Scope

[El Chivo]

I did my first scope-assisted shooting Thursday, I have to say I didn't like it much.

I did ok. I nearly had it sighted in with a terrible final group. Then when I put the gun in its case I saw the scope wobbling on its Weaver Mount. Got to check those thumbscrews a little more often.

But that's not my question. Here's my question. I was experiencing the parallax, where depending on my eye position (cheek weld) I got varying views through the scope. I could see my front sight over here, now over there. Plus there seems to be some distortion depending on my eye position. Kind of like trying to shoot a fish in a fishbowl.

Will I get varying impact points due to this? Or is it just bang on the crosshairs?

If it's real touchy for eye position I don't see how I'll be able to shoot accurately with one. I already feel handicapped without a tang sight. But it is faster.

[Pisgah]

sobenk, it sounds to me like the #1 problem you have is the mounting. All screws must be TIGHT, and when you clamp the rings to the base you must be sure that everything is fully seated and aligned before the final tightening. I always mount the base, then mount the lower halves of the rings, then lay the scope into the lower halves and add the top halves. then tighten down the top halves partially. When they're snug but not tight, I align the crosshairs to be perfectly level and square, make sure the eye relief is correct for a full field of view,then tighten down the top sections fully. In all my years, I've never mounted a scope and been able to see the front sight through the scope, except for one time when I had inadvertantly failed to seat the rear ring into its base groove fully and the whole deal was tilted slightly forward.

Paralllax is something you'll encounter with any scope. Scopes are set to be focused at one range -- usually 100 yards for scopes intended for centerfire rifles -- and parallax will be present at shorter and longer ranges. However, it will rarely be a factor in anything but shooting for tiny groups or shooting at tiny varmints, as the sighting discrepancies will usually be small.

My suggestion at this point would be to dismount the whole shebang and start over again, making sure step by step that everything is mounted secure and correct. The crosshairs should be level, and the eye relief set (by moving the scope slightly forward and backwards inside the loose rings) so that when you shoulder the rifle your eye is right where it needs to be and you have a full field of view.

[Marc]

It does sound like it isn't mounted in the right location if you have to move your head around to have your eye centered. Ideally your eye will be centered when you shoulder the rifle. In the real world we have to compromise because we put scopes on rifles that are designed to be used with iron sights and then we are all built a little different. Use the lowest mount that will work to keep the line of sight closer to the iron sight line of sight. Adjust the eye relief and practice. And don't worry about parallax.

[86er]

Moving your head forward and back on the stock to see the whole "picture" is the eye relief. Parallex is the focus of the crosshairs at a particular distance related to point of impact. In other words, if you are not looking right through the scope but rather at an angle or something, the point of impact will not be exactly where the center of the crosshairs indicates. If you position your head just right and have a clear view, parallex isn't an issue out to wherever the scope is set at. Some scopes have an adjustable parallex usually indicated in yards and adjustable at the front lens. First you have to get the mounts tight. Next you need to mount the gun and look through the scope. Move it forward or back in the rings until you have the whole picture. Then it is ready to use without getting any more complicated at this time.

[Leverdude]

What power is the scope? On a Marlin with under 3 power I can usually pick up the front sight. It dont matter but it bugs me so I take it off if I'm scoping the gun. Paralax is part of the nature of scopes but I'm surprised you noticed it if not looking for it.
As has been mentioned it only really matters at extreme distances or trying for itty bitty groups. I cant shoot itty bitty groups at will anyway so rarely even think about it. Eye position should only be critical as far as seeing good. If your off center but the crosshairs are on the bull & the scopes zero'd it should hit, same if your too far or near. Your sight picture suffers but the crosshairs should still be where they were.

I bet your whole issue was loose screws. I dont think of them as thumb screws. I have a big fat screwdriver that fits the mount screws nice most times & I loktite the rings & bases.

[Pete44ru]

Ignore the front sight, if it can be seen, when sighting through the scope - it will help your shooting.

You may consider looking through other scopes, that have a more prominent reticle, to ease your transition.

[mescalero1]

Go back through the whole process, make sure you can see a complete picture AND the reticle when you mount the rifle.
If the paralex is still bothering you PM me, I will tell you how to get rid of it

[AJMD429]

Consider buying a $30 red-dot scope to practice with first - zero magnification, which translates to UNLIMITED eye relief, and very insensitive to the parallax phenomenon. The 'no magnification' isn't any worse than what you get with the peep or tang you're used to, but the field of view is terrific, you can shoot with both eyes open, and all you have to do is put the little red dot where you want the little bleeding hole.

My daughter (10 years old) uses a red-dot on a leveraction 22LR to consistently (7 out of 10 or better) hit 2" steel flip-ups at 75 yards; you just put the dot on the target and squeeze.



Once you get used to shooting with the red dot, you may want to go back to a magnifyin' scope and you'll likely be more comfortable using one.

[oldgerboy]

To me it sounds that what you are calling parallex is really just the focus of the scope. Once you get it on tight like they said and it is positioned fore and aft so you get the full view through the scope without the fuzzy donut effect around the parimeter of the scope do you still see two crosshairs looking at a distant object? If so, I feel the problem is the focus of the eyepiece. It is the rare scope I do not have to focus for my eyes.