Refinishing wood stocks - Finished

meanc · Post by **meanc** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:51 pm

Well, I picked up a marlin 45colt Cowboy Limited last month and there were several scratches in the clear cloat, with a few scrapes in the finish, that the seller just covered up with some clear fingernail polish. Plus, the finish had turned a yellowish tint. So it looked pretty tacky.

Anyway, I've already taken off the old finish and I'm about to stain it with a 50/50 solution of Minwax Red Mohagony and Walnut and finish up with Tru-oil.

I'm looking for a satin finish and I've never done this before, so, how do you guys recommend I work it with the Minwax and Tru-oil.

Leverdude · Post by **Leverdude** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:46 pm

Tru oil is easy to get a satin finish from. I'd do whatever staining first & then put he tru oil on straight, steel wooling with 0000 steel wool between coats & after the last one. Left alone it'll beglossy but if you hit it with the wool it dulls right down.

Swampman · Post by **Swampman** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:52 pm

I would have advised not to refinish but it's too late for that. The best way to get a satin finish, is to use Formby's Tung Oil Finish (Low Gloss). I don't like Tru-Oil much because it drys too fast.

BirchWood Casey's Stock Sheen & Conditioner is the best way to put a satin finish on Tru-Oil.

Borregos · Post by **Borregos** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:26 pm

meanc I have a Marlin 1894 I need to refinish too, how did you get the original finish off??

Swampman · Post by **Swampman** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 7:40 pm

Here's another product that works great. It looks exactly like the factory finish, and it's truly waterproof and UV resistant.

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-14760/Detail

Linseed, Tung Oil, and Tru-Oil are not waterproof nor UV resistant.

C. Cash · Post by **C. Cash** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:59 pm

When using Tru-Oil, I find that I get alot less runs and drips when it is cool to cold(the temperature of the air). Seems to work better for me when it's not so warm. I like Tru-Oil alot. I redid my Grandfather's old Single Shot Winchester by just taking off the varnish with Formby's, leaving the nicks, dings and red Winchester stain intact, then going back over it with Tru-Oil.

meanc · Post by **meanc** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:35 pm

Well, I just finished the first three coats of Tru-Oil on the stock and forearm of the Marlin 1894CB.

These were very deep extensive applications to really seal up any pores. Right now they are silky smooth, and looking pretty darn good. Now, they're awaiting the last coat which I'll probably finish up tonight.

I'm so impressed with the way it's turned out so far, so just for giggles, I decided to do the stock on my 1894 44mag which was made in 1974. It's a true truck gun with very little finish left on the metal and pretty beat up wood.

While I was at it, I took a belt sander and thinned down that thick forearm, then I restained it and applied a couple of coats of Tru-Oil to it as well.

After the final coats are applied and dried, I'll run some 0000 wool to them and take some pictures.

BTW Borregos, I used Strip-X Stripper from home depot and a stiff nylon brush to remove the finish. Then I took some 400grit and lightly wet sanded it.

Grizzly Adams · Post by **Grizzly Adams** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:44 pm

I have never been able to get it to look right with steel wool.

After applying the desired number of coats of Tru oil or tung oil, I have found that I can get a really smooth soft satin finish by rubbing down the stocks with rottenstone and linseed oil.

Nate Kiowa Jones · Post by **Nate Kiowa Jones** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:33 pm

Here's a Marlin 1894 CB that has had a cresent plate cut in and the forwood slimmed. It was then Tru-oil-ed and 4/0 steel wooled in between but toward the final coats is was also block sanded with 600 wet.

If I want stain I will tint the tru-oil. This 92 was tru-oiled tinted with red krylon paint.
Doing it like this allows more control over the color. If you want more color just keep adding tinted tru-oil. For less start with the tinted and finish with the untinted.

meanc · Post by **meanc** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 2:31 pm

Nate, those are really nicely done. That Red 92 is amazing, I'd really love to see that against a lighter colored background.
That CB stock has a great finish on it, too. I definitely like the sheen on it.

Well, here's the 1894CB stock. Before I did anything, the stock was just about the color of Nate's CB pictured. I just like mine to be a lot darker.

I ended up putting down 2 coats of Minwax 50/50 Red Mohogany/Walnut and 4 coats of Tru-oil. I might eventually rub a couple more coats on it, but right now I really like how it's looking.

Here's my 1894 44mag. I took an old 336 forearm and thinned it down then added the barrel band. I know it's a truck gun, but just thought I'd spruce it up a little.

Nate Kiowa Jones · Post by **Nate Kiowa Jones** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:33 pm

Yep, the red background tends to make it look more red than it really is.

I like the color you got, too.

C. Cash · Post by **C. Cash** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 6:29 pm

Those look really nice MeanC. Well done!

meanc · Post by **meanc** » Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:36 pm

Thanks. I now realize after looking at Nate's CB that I'm not quite finished yet.

A little deeper finish would make me much happier. So, I'm thinking about applying a few more coats to it.

Nate, BTW, how many coats of Tru-Oil went on your CB?

Pete44ru · Post by **Pete44ru** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:45 am

Nice lookin' shootin' irons, there, Gents.

I too, prefer a darker reddish finish, and also use red mahogany Min-Wax - but on some guns have mixed in a little black walnut Min-Wax with it, for a little different, but still pleasing, effect.

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:06 am

I have been using Tru-Oil since 1959 and really like the stuff. I have tried all sorts of ways of using it. I apply thin coats and sand between the coats with 1200 grit emery paper. When the grain is 100% filled, I use one more coat and when dry, buff up with rubbing compound.

If I want a satin/european oil finish I just cut the finish off back to the wood. That leaves a good finish.

With Tru-Oil you can upgrade your finish or take it back down again as you wish over the years. The finish is reasy to repair.

I am certain their are other products that work just as well, but after 49 years, I see no need to change and start the learning process all over again.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:58 am

Good job meanc. Those are certainly lookin' very good. I really liked the different ways that guys get their finish. I've got a number of stocks to do with my projects, so, I read this with interest. Thanks for posting the question.

Jaguarundi · Post by **Jaguarundi** » Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:28 pm

Nice looking meanc!

edsguns · Post by **edsguns** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:01 am

Swampman wrote:Here's another product that works great. It looks exactly like the factory finish, and it's truly waterproof and UV resistant.

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-14760/Detail

Linseed, Tung Oil, and Tru-Oil are not waterproof nor UV resistant.

Swampman, I agree with you. I've re-finished several rifles that way and the finish is VERY durable. One's finish is over 20 yrs old and still looks great. I also prefer, especially on older rifles, to not use any stain and let the true grain of the wood show through. Rifles made 30-50 yrs ago, generally speaking, have much nicer grained walnut than today's standard stocks and can look great once the old translucent finish/stain is stripped and gets you down to bare wood.

20cows · Post by **20cows** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 4:04 pm

Thinning down the forend makes all the difference in the world on a Marlin! Nice job!

shawn_c992001 · Post by **shawn_c992001** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 8:19 pm

Nice looking 94!!! I think I would call it quits and stay with what I had with that finish.